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Old 10-30-2010, 08:55 PM   #136
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My Flat roof project-help!


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A few things.The base used was a very cheap product,we are not even allowed to use it here anymore.Not enough fasteners in the base.Sporatic bleedout on the seams,I like to see quarter to half inch.It also looks to me like he only torched the seams.Did you see him roll the torchon up and then unroll as he was torching or did he lay it all out and then torch itWhen he overlapped endlaps did he scrape granules off,it looks like he used primerCan I see a few more pics,do you have anymore pics of chimney area and perimeter.My question mark isn`t working for some reason.Don`t want to worry you because I know you did your research,but this contractor does not know how to properly install the torchdown.Do you have any pics of the shingle work.C mon Federer,you did this yourself,right,rightIf you did this I`ll be easy on you
where are you located? the base used was the firestone stuff. it matches my mod bit doesnt it? for the bleedout they did go back and bleed it out for all the seams as far as i can see. they did roll it up and torch the entire roll before putting it down. i actually have a video but i dont know how to post it here. they did use primer on the drip edges. let me post more shingles side for you to look at. thanks so much for your input!!
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Old 10-30-2010, 09:04 PM   #137
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more pics of shingle side and perimeter:



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Old 10-30-2010, 09:07 PM   #138
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Old 10-30-2010, 11:18 PM   #139
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where are you located? the base used was the firestone stuff. it matches my mod bit doesnt it? for the bleedout they did go back and bleed it out for all the seams as far as i can see. they did roll it up and torch the entire roll before putting it down. i actually have a video but i dont know how to post it here. they did use primer on the drip edges. let me post more shingles side for you to look at. thanks so much for your input!!
The base used on your project is solely for fire protection(it isn't even water resistant.We've used it to torch down our base to,but never solely as a base.So you have a 1-ply system.Yes it is compatible with your product,but is the cheapest product.Our nailed base has a smooth surface(film)on one side and sanded on the other and is much thicker and just a better product all around.As far as your shingles they look good.They were racked though and some manufacturers will not honor their warranty if racked.On the endlaps of the torchon did they scrape the granules off where its overlapped?The bleedout is ridiculous,they gave it way too much heat,which actually can give you weak points in the membrane.All of that bleedout should have been covered with granules otherwise the sun will deteriorate the bleedout and can/will cause leaks.I would discuss this with your contractor.I'm just giving you my professional opinion.
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Old 10-30-2010, 11:27 PM   #140
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The base used on your project is solely for fire protection(it isn't even water resistant.We've used it to torch down our base to,but never solely as a base.So you have a 1-ply system.Yes it is compatible with your product,but is the cheapest product.Our nailed base has a smooth surface(film)on one side and sanded on the other and is much thicker and just a better product all around.As far as your shingles they look good.They were racked though and some manufacturers will not honor their warranty if racked.On the endlaps of the torchon did they scrape the granules off where its overlapped?The bleedout is ridiculous,they gave it way too much heat,which actually can give you weak points in the membrane.All of that bleedout should have been covered with granules otherwise the sun will deteriorate the bleedout and can/will cause leaks.I would discuss this with your contractor.I'm just giving you my professional opinion.
i appreciate the feedback! thanks so much. thats why i am on here so i can get good feedback from guys like you. what do you suggest i say to start the conversation with the roofer? also, where do i go to get the paper for my warranty for the shingle roof? thanks again if you are ever in the area let me know you can be a overnight guest
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Old 10-30-2010, 11:30 PM   #141
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these are pics from day 2







The 4th pic down where the guy is torching the strip on the edge,the second row of torchon is not torched yet.The only way for him to torch that now is by torching the seam only and the way he is torching the strip on the edge,it is near impossible to get it fully bonded.Any stripping(flashing) should always be torched in small strips to ensure a full bond.
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Old 10-31-2010, 12:41 AM   #142
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My Flat roof project-help!


so...wha tdo you think is the life expectanacy of this roof?
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Old 10-31-2010, 12:50 AM   #143
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Do you have much snowfall where you are?Its hard to say the life expectancy.I have torchon roofs(1 ply)properly installed some that are in their 15th year and still look very good.The good thing about torchon is it is very easy to repair and should major problems arise it makes a good base for another torchon roof.
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Old 10-31-2010, 01:39 AM   #144
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Do you have much snowfall where you are?Its hard to say the life expectancy.I have torchon roofs(1 ply)properly installed some that are in their 15th year and still look very good.The good thing about torchon is it is very easy to repair and should major problems arise it makes a good base for another torchon roof.
its hit and miss. last winter we had the record blizzard here. over 40inches of snow. it was a disaster! how can i get the contractor to come back and remedy the roof. i guess the good news is the shingles is ok at least. how do i obtain the warranty?
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Old 10-31-2010, 12:13 PM   #145
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its hit and miss. last winter we had the record blizzard here. over 40inches of snow. it was a disaster! how can i get the contractor to come back and remedy the roof. i guess the good news is the shingles is ok at least. how do i obtain the warranty?
If you still owe them money,thats a good incentive to get them out.As far as the warranty,you need the original receipt for materials,of course every manufacturer is different.You can go to their website more info on this.I as a contractor would take care of this.
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Old 11-01-2010, 10:17 PM   #146
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i just registered for their warranty on the website. thanks. i think since the roofers gave me a 10yr warranty on their work i am going to just go with it and see what happens. i dont want to go through the hassle of going back and forth and try to get them to make it better....sigh
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Old 11-03-2010, 11:40 PM   #147
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so anyone else have other thoughts/comments?
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Old 11-04-2010, 01:19 AM   #148
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Can I? J/K Just wish you the best of luck and hope it holds out for you.Take care
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Old 11-04-2010, 09:56 PM   #149
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lol of course you can john-i appreciate all the comments you have given. thanks
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Old 11-24-2010, 11:18 AM   #150
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Hey, just want to tell you that based on all your advice I just took some bids on contract to install an Firestone 180 roof with galvanized drip edge and #30 lb paper with 1/2 of fiberglass insulation and fiberglass base sheet on a section of my 800 square foot house in Maryland. The best quote is $5700. Anything else you would recommend? Thanks again. Bob


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Ice shield under a mod bit is ridiculious!

First layer should be a fiberglass reinforced base sheet, something like a CertainTeed glass base or Firestone's equivelent. I usually doulbe up my base also called half lapping where we install the 3' roll with an 18" exposure. The base sheets are most often mechanically fastened using metal button cap nails or screws and plates.

A mid ply would be the firestone app 160. It is a smooth modified bitumen about 4mm thick. This is torch applied, welded, to the base sheet.

Finally the cap sheet would be the firestone app 180, a granulated modified bitumen about 4/5mm thick. This is torch applied to the mid ply.

The above system rating when properly installed is 20 years.

Keep in mind before the plys are installed I would also installa 1/2" high density fiberboard. I never want to be torching to a wood deck, this is also why we double up the base sheet. Furthermore I only do modified bitumen on request, and most often on a small reisdential project like this I would be using a self adhering modified bitumen. First layer is nailed or screwed as described above. With the self adhering, we can negate the fiberboard. The 2nd layer is a self adhering mid ply, and the final layer is a granulated self adhering cap sheet.


Your proposal makes absolutely no metnion of fiberboard and or base sheet. I pray for your sake they do not intend to torch directly to the wood. Aluminum drip edge on a torch applied roof?! the aluminum will wrinkle and buckle from the heat. better to get a Kynar steel when installing a torch applied product. The steel can be prefinished just like aluminum can and with the Kynar coating, will last 25 years.

I'm not sure this roofer has a clue, in my opinion.
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