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Old 06-05-2006, 02:47 PM   #16
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#1, given that you have roof tiles over part of the roof, those muct be removed...felt is ok to lay down under the metal. The 3 tabs can be left, if they are laying perfectly flat...we do one layer overlays quite often...

#2...I have been reading in a few trade publications guy are using typical house wrap on roofs now...there is a membrane called "triflex" that is great underlayment for steel..but if a roof has any pitch, it is slick as snot.

#3 If your roof deck is good, you have no need to add purlins (battens)...just a word of caution: When laying out screw rows, avoid having a row in a seam of a deck.

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Old 07-01-2006, 08:37 AM   #17
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corrugated metal roofing is best installed with the screws on the flat areas 1/2 inch to the side of the overlap rib.and following through beside each other rib through out the field of the roof.reason being there are way too many variables and way too many screws to hope you got it tight and secure into good wood. when you fasten into the flat area you take the fastener all the way down till it tightens.if the fastener does not tighten you know you dont have the roof tight in this area.flat fastening the sheets also takes most all the guess work out of quality measures.like screws at a angle not sealing the fasters washer.also crushing the rib with the fastener,because the only way to ensure a tight roof is to secure it tight with every screw.its each individual screw that matters,not just the fact you have many partially installed screws
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Old 07-01-2006, 02:51 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by k.baker
corrugated metal roofing is best installed with the screws on the flat areas 1/2 inch to the side of the overlap rib.and following through beside each other rib through out the field of the roof.reason being there are way too many variables and way too many screws to hope you got it tight and secure into good wood. when you fasten into the flat area you take the fastener all the way down till it tightens.if the fastener does not tighten you know you dont have the roof tight in this area.flat fastening the sheets also takes most all the guess work out of quality measures.like screws at a angle not sealing the fasters washer.also crushing the rib with the fastener,because the only way to ensure a tight roof is to secure it tight with every screw.its each individual screw that matters,not just the fact you have many partially installed screws
I beg to differ. The point of screws in the ribs (corrugated or classic/R panel) is to allow some slight movement of the sheets, i.e. coeficient of expansion...the sheets can "grow" in length 3/8" on a hot day. A screw shank up 3/4" in the rib allows a cumulative bending moment that does not lend itself to opening up the screw hole and or working the washer. A screw needs to be installed correctly, not angled or under-driven or overdriven. We use cordless drills when doing these, and the touch is figured out quickly when the screw is correctly set. Just like driving nails, a feel for this is quickly mastered. The other point to NOT placing field screws in the flats is that water seeks a channel to run, why would you give the water a bunch of screws to wash over? The only time we shoot the flats is on the eave row, which we double screw (one each side of the rib) for wind resisitance (wind screwing).

There are hundreds of old round top barns here, nailed corugated, and they are all nailed on the ribs for this reason.....my old granpa always said water runs in the valley, not on the hills. Given that most guys trying this would get the hang of it quickly, it is not out of reach as a DIY project. I had a background in steel erection (metal buildings) before I ever did a residential roof, and nearly 200 roofs later, we do what works.
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Old 07-02-2006, 11:08 AM   #19
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you really dont have to remove the old roofing.you can start by laying roofing felt over your existing roof,then install a grib of 1x3 furring strips(as long as the existing roof deck seems stable through out)2x4 purlins if the roof deck is soft in places or has major dips that you want to shim out.set about 2' o/c from gutter to the ridge cap.walk only on the grid while installing the roof.start installing the metal remembering to see that things fall on 9" centers(both ends of the roof) there are some adjustments built into the rake trim.hi i'm a metal roofing contractor specializing in metal roofing fabricating and installing. located in central pa area, we are involved in large large commercial projects and high end residencial projects as well, throughout the state of pa.site formed seamless panels available. email: keithbaker1@earthlink.net or call814)224~4268
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Old 07-02-2006, 12:02 PM   #20
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I would really recommend a nice snap lok panel or even a batten cap over an R panel or corrugated for a house.
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Old 07-03-2006, 05:44 PM   #21
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I think its foolish to downplay the merits of I&W, love the stuff. however its not a majic bullett and good roofing practice is still essential. you must however put a slip sheet "like red rosin paper" between the ice shield "or felt" and the metal roofing. if you dont you run the risk of having the metal stick to it and cause oil canning or ashpalt bleed.

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Old 10-29-2007, 01:16 PM   #22
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I am a believer in screws through the ridges instead of the flats. I want to put metal over a thick (3 inch) foam insulation board. where can I find screws 5 inches long? or longer?
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Old 10-29-2007, 06:48 PM   #23
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Unless you have a need to do it, why place 3 inches of insulation board under the steel?

The technique we started this last year is laying solar guard, reflective side up, under the steel and this effectively reflects the heat gain in an attic.....unless you don't have an attic, you would be well advised to go with the solar guard or double bubble insulation.
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Old 10-29-2007, 10:39 PM   #24
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metal roofing


use olympic screws to put plywood over the insulation ,then you can put regular screws thru the metal,I understand in florida thru the rib is what`s required,and yes you do have to allow for expansion/contraction when installing metal roofing
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Old 10-30-2007, 09:52 AM   #25
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This application is to replace a low slope BUR and there is no attic.The only practical way to insulate is over the deck and under the metal.
Solar guard would be in direct contact with the metal unles standoff purlins are added. An air gap is required for the solar guard to properly reflect the radiant energy from the sheet metal for summer use. There would be little value for winter heating requirements.
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Old 10-30-2007, 07:36 PM   #26
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We do not "air gap" the solar guard, it works laid flat on decking as well.
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Old 01-12-2009, 06:54 AM   #27
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I helped install a metal roof on a Habitat house in southern Colorado this past summer. The exposed-fastener style is prevalent there - even most of the upscale homes seemed to have it. In fact, I did not even see a standing seam roof.

I could not believe how easy the roof was to install. Three of us (all just experienced DIYers) did the whole thing in less than a day.
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Old 01-12-2009, 09:29 PM   #28
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concealed fastener standing seam roof details can be pretty complicated at any penetrations In my opinion the exposed fastener ag type panel is going to leak at some time in its life all those screws have to be installed just right for the neoprene washers to work properly and with expansion and contraction the screw hole eventually gets bigger and bigger.Not a good residential product imo

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