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Old 05-30-2006, 01:08 PM   #1
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metal roofing


the house here in FL is fast approaching a new roof............i have had 20 years on the present roof( 1600 sq ft )other than the addition( 220 sq ft ).

a lot of styles/types to choose from:

1. 3-tab shingles.....the cheapest method and what i have on most of the house $6K

2. so-called 'architecture' shingles.....a little more pricey, shingles weigh more $9K

3. metal roofing.......nice colors and even here different designs but really expensive but it is supposed to last much much longer $14K

4. clay tile 'look' but done in plastic $??

5. the real deal clay tile......my roof would probably cave in.

i and the 'boss' sort of like the metal option, the color pick is great as well as its durability but the cost.......wondering if i could order the metal and install myself.....any experience from amateurs on installing their own metal roof?

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Old 05-30-2006, 02:57 PM   #2
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Piece of cake...go for it.

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Old 05-30-2006, 03:35 PM   #3
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Metal roofing is not overly difficult, and the roof design of your home can make it easy or more challenging. The least expensive metal roofing is using a "panel" style in a classic profile, ribs on 9 inch centers and the sheet covers 3 feet. You can find a metal building manufacturer in your area that will run and cut to length the metal you need, in probably a color you will like. Be sure you go with 26 gauge metal, and the lighter the color, the greater the reflective value. In Oklahoma, we install 26 gauge metal roofs for $175 a sq, tearoffs and gutters and special trim extra. If you have a gabled roof, straight run, it is a piece of cake. A hipped roof is a little more challenging, and will require a nibbler. One thing to consider: You should install it on as flat a deck as you can...it is ok to install over a layer of shingles, if they are laying well....any more then 1 layer, tear it off and do it right. Another thing that comes from the school of experience. We use 2-1/2 inch woodgrip screws, screwed on the ribs in rows 3 to 4 feet apart, and screw the flats only at the eave, one on each side of a rib (wind screw). Follow this plan and you reduce the chances of it ever leaking unless you over drive or underdrive the screws.
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Old 05-30-2006, 07:18 PM   #4
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thankyou for the info....i will start researching on tools needed and all those other interesting details
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Old 05-30-2006, 07:28 PM   #5
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Metal runs .75 more or less across the land (current steel prices) if you like the panel style. I haven't kept up with metal architectural (stamped/pressed) roofing systems, but the last price specs I had were 3.50 a sq/ft and up, plus detail trim. The tools are really basic. We do not use a metal cutting skil saw or gimmick blades, we use a shear (Kett) and a nibler (Milwaukee) to do all the cutting, plus a good quality hole saw for roof pipes. We have installed nearly 200 metal roofs since I got into that side of construction, and what works for us would work for anyone. We use 18volt cordless (Dewalt 987 or 988) drills to do the screws, a few straight edges, and thats about it. Good aviation snips, left and right, makes the trim work easier..and use plumb lines when starting the metal courses...good luck.
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Old 05-31-2006, 07:44 AM   #6
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Yeah, since metal roofing is so simple, just go with a nice flatlocked and soldered copper....piece of cake.

That is, unless you dont mind your home looking like a friggin horse barn like joasis is saying.

A standing seam would with hidden fasteners would probably look a lot better on your house. Even an inverted J panel would be a step above the R panel

If youre going to do it in metal youd better do it now, cuz steel is on the rise , and its going fast.
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Last edited by AaronB; 05-31-2006 at 07:50 AM.
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Old 05-31-2006, 08:34 AM   #7
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Beauty is in the eye of the beholder, and we install classic panel roofs on custom homes...I guess the HO's don't mind the country look. Soldered seam and standing seam roofs are not DIY type of projects. When I was in Florida awhile back, I saw a lot of them. The colors and architectural style of the home has a lot to do with the "look". This style of roofing is taking over in the southwest, mainly due to economy and practicality. HO's in my area get a 20% - 30% discount on insurance since roof damage and replacement won't happen every 3 to 5 years (industry average, Texas, Oklahoma, kansas) with metal as opposed to comp roofs.

Sorry Aaron, that you disagree with my advice...I assume you know your market, and I sure know mine.....I don't mind sharing experience and information on how to do something....I am not advocating a wholesale jump into the trade.

I will try to post a few pictures of roofs we have done...see if they look like horse barns.

Last edited by joasis; 05-31-2006 at 08:36 AM.
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Old 05-31-2006, 03:37 PM   #8
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advice from you folks in the trade is priceless. you have the experience and know-how.

us amateurs are just that......we think we can do it but those messy details derail us unless the planning is done, and by planning i mean having answers to all the work and knowing what questions to have.

i have been downloading various 'how-to' files but there is always more info needed.

all of your input is highly appreciated and valued.
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Old 06-03-2006, 05:09 PM   #9
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Here is a horse barn we roofed last winter....we kinda like it.

http://www.diychatroom.com/attachmen...1&d=1149368903
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Old 06-03-2006, 08:44 PM   #10
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Is That an exposed fastener system?
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Old 06-03-2006, 09:55 PM   #11
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how much would that cost for a roof on a 35x30 building 1050squarefeet
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Old 06-03-2006, 09:59 PM   #12
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Yes Aaron, exposed fasteners. 2 reasons: Metal expands and contracts, therefore, I use long woodgrips (2-1/2 inch with washer) on each rib, 3 to 4 feets apart. This allows the screw shank a "slight" amount of flex without breaking the seal of the washer. I am one of the few metal roof installers in this area who does this...other guys screw on the flats...and I think it is wrong...the other reason is the screws located on the ribs gives the panels a "clean" look....and I believe a better overall apearance. There is nothing wrong with standing seam...except the cost on doing it on many roof styles makes it impractical...can you imagine running a mechanical seamer on the 12/12 pitch in the pictures? Snap lock panels can and will come loose in the high winds in Oklahoma...we have recorded 85 mph straight gusts 3 times this spring alone...The architectural style roofing systems that I love for the look are just flat out too expensive for all but the wealthy in my area....can you imagine trying to sell a roof that installed will be $900 a square compared to $150 for metal panel and $100 for good comps? When I said the difference in markets...I was looking at the whole picture....many older homes sell for $50 a sq/ft....and the people who own them will not be able to pay for the premium roofing system...
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Old 06-04-2006, 12:19 AM   #13
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metal roofing


Quote:
Originally Posted by joasis
Here is a horse barn we roofed last winter....we kinda like it.

http://www.diychatroom.com/attachmen...1&d=1149368903
I think it looks good joasis, much better than ive seen locally where lots of houses have metal on em.
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Old 06-04-2006, 08:27 AM   #14
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Can you link us to a bigger picture or larger picture? I agree with screwing into the flats...for no other reason that the volume of water running over the screw heads is multiplied several times as a opposed to on top of the ribs.
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Old 06-05-2006, 09:12 AM   #15
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so, in further reading across many sites i have these observations / questions:

1. my 3 tab tile is old, almost 20 years. the addition has new arch tiles.

i am tempted to pull everything off the roof, old and new. the wood roof is the florida merritt island pine that they cut right here when they built these homes back in 1967. they are close to being petrified pine.

2. if i pull all the old and new off do i then lay #30 felt or that new underlayment stuff, sort of silvery and has a better wind rating?

3. after the felt, do i then put down 'battons' across the whole roof?

enough questions for today........

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