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Old 03-22-2008, 06:24 PM   #1
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Metal Roofing


Need to replace my roof this spring/summer. Currently we have architectural shingles, but the previous owner did a poor job putting it on, so we have leaks.

We are in NH and get alot of snow and the slope of the porches are not correct, so when ice builds up we get dams and more leaks.

We are considering a metal roof but the standing seam is too expensive. Has anyone had experience with the metal roof where the screw heads show. Is this a good option? or will new shingles done properly be sufficient enough.

We are also considering putting the flat pvc type roofing on the back porch since that is where the biggest problem with the ice dams are.

Let me know your thoughts.

Thanks
Kim

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Old 03-22-2008, 09:24 PM   #2
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As good as I am, I'd have lots of trouble detailing a 'screw-down' roof for the long term. And I've done it. Very easy to mess one up. Get the 50 year Elks and use EPDM on the porch

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Old 03-22-2008, 09:54 PM   #3
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Thanks for the reply, what makes it so difficult. Do you need to put something under for flex?
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Old 03-23-2008, 01:58 AM   #4
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Its the screws through the panel face.
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Old 03-23-2008, 03:56 AM   #5
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And opinions vary widely, I have done many, and it is all about the details. We do not install screws on the "flat" field of the panel, only the rib, with the exception of the eve screws, Correctly installed, an exposed fastener roof looks fine, and if cost is an issue, it is the most economical metal roof to install.
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Old 03-23-2008, 07:36 AM   #6
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Which do you think is the better option ELK shingle roof or exposed fastener metal roof. If the shingle is done properly will I have any problem w/ water leaking inside if ice dams build up. I will be putting EPDM on the back porch which is the flattest and where most of the leaking occurs inside. Is shingle cheaper then exposed fastener metal roof?
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Old 03-23-2008, 11:24 AM   #7
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Metal Roofing


What is the slope of all of your roof sections?

Post photos of your entire roof and of the troubled areas. They would help for a more specific answer.

If your leaks are only occurring from snow and ice, you have ice damming problems, which also belies an insulation R-Value and a proper ventilation problem.

Even a 30 year architectural shingle, with Grace Ice and Water Shield installed under the shingles in the problem zones, and installed with proper ventilation, will last a long time.

A quality oriented architectural sheet metal applicator could make the exposed fastener panel method work, but eventually, the neoprene gaskets on the screws will dry out and allow water to enter. The only thing that prevents visible prevalent damage, is that the fasteners are installed on the high spots, i.e., the ribs.

But, since you have snow and ice issues, even the high points wil be buried by wet snow and after they have decayed, those spots would leak also.

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Old 03-23-2008, 12:14 PM   #8
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That is good to know. Thanks I will post some pictures soon.Thanks again
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Old 03-23-2008, 08:24 PM   #9
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Here are some examples;
I couldn't repair this one as easily as I could just replace it. About 4 months old. The material doesn't lend itself well to detail work anyway, and these guys butchered it.
http://www.rooferscoffeeshop.com/sho...&file=3148&s=0

Standing Seam done by idiots;
http://www.rooferscoffeeshop.com/sho...3&file=606&s=0

Numerous examples of workable solutions with standing seam;
http://www.rooferscoffeeshop.com/sho...&file=4434&s=0

And;
Ridge venting is a pain with all metals.
http://www.rooferscoffeeshop.com/sho...&file=2912&s=0

Hope my pictures tell you a better story than I can with words. Should be easy to tell mine from others.
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Old 03-24-2008, 07:15 AM   #10
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Wow, okay I think shingles is the way to go. And I'll put EPDM on the flat back porch. the biggest problems have been where the porches meet the main roof. The previous owner put them on and he put on the roof, so I just dont think he did i properly, but the EPDM on the back should help w/ ice damning, since its so slick. Do you all agree?
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Old 03-24-2008, 11:16 AM   #11
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Make sure the EPDM runs 3 feet up the slope before the shingles cover it.

Also, install Grace Ice and Water Shield over the EPDM at the pitch change.

Other than that, since you wil be using architectural shingles now, it should be a typical roof job.

Ed
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Old 03-25-2008, 02:40 AM   #12
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Ed,
I might be wrong here, but don't asphalt-based products destroy Epdm?
I know they are terrible for PVC, but i also think Epdm is incompatible.

Why I ask - Quote: Also, install Grace Ice and Water Shield over the EPDM at the pitch change.

To clkad

I do recommend you go with metal roof instead of asphalt shingles. We get get at least 1-2 calls a day from people in HN, VT and ME, about ice dams related leaks. Many from recently built homes / newly installed roofs, even with ice and water.

Good luck
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Old 03-25-2008, 11:03 AM   #13
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CoolRoof,

I just saw the transition detail from the Firestone spec online 2 days ago and that is exactly how they describe to do it, with the Ice and Water Shield.

I am leaving shortly for this years Air Vent Seminar, and am quite involved in this years presentation, so I will get back to you later with the link if you need it.

Ed
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Old 03-25-2008, 11:58 AM   #14
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Thanks Ed, but i won't need that link since we do not do epdm - only pvc.
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Old 03-25-2008, 11:58 AM   #15
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It is really just an adhesive on the back of the Grace being applied to the epdm. Moreover, the solvents in some asphalt products will eat at EPDM, but I have even seen this situation with no ill effect other than the roof cements not adhering to the EPDM for very long.

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