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Old 02-22-2008, 10:45 PM   #31
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Metal roof???


and that`s an internet friend,never seen his work personally,but people speak well of him

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Old 02-22-2008, 10:48 PM   #32
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Metal roof???


Thats the same way I know of him too.

He does have good credentials on his site though.

Ed



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Old 02-23-2008, 06:59 PM   #33
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Metal roof???


Looks like this guy has a Pro business for sure. But that usually means Big Bucks for the person getting the work done.
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Old 02-23-2008, 08:36 PM   #34
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Metal roof???


Price is in the eye of the beholder. If a 30 year roof last 30 years, because someone spent the proper investment initially, or if a 30 year roof only lasts 12-15 years, but was half the price, which one was the better deal?

Remember, now in that shorter time frame, the costs wil have gone up substantially and you will possibly be paying to have the erroneously installed work previously installed, removed down to the decking once again.

Who is actually doing the job "Precisely" to the manufacturers specifications, especially when it comes to properly balancing the ventilation. I know from studies by the major manufacturers, that over 90% do not adhere to their specifications, and therefor, would have a warranty that is nul and void and worthless from day one.

I am not stating that I know if this contractor does the highest quality, only that his personal knowledge shared on another forum seems to indicate that he would.

That is why you "Interview" each contractor being considered and you "Check References" on similar projects and you get the "Most Detailed Proposal" possible, leaving no doubt what is and is not agreed to get done. You also ask for a customer that they had a problem with, in any manner and follow up on how well the customer felt the situation was handled and resolved.

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Old 02-23-2008, 09:04 PM   #35
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Metal roof???


I appreciate all the help. Your only being Honest. And I really appreciate that. Your advice has been great. Yeah quality costs money. And your right "when done right" should last a long time. Better then getting some hack job done. Thanks Again.
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Old 02-23-2008, 09:14 PM   #36
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I am really glad that you see it that way. Comments like that are part of what makes spending time on this forum worthwhile.

Good or bad, I do try to be accurate and honest, to the best of my abilities.

Thanks,

Ed
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Old 02-23-2008, 10:24 PM   #37
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Metal roof???


Your very welcome. I appreciate the time you spend on this forum.
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Old 02-24-2008, 12:25 AM   #38
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Metal roof???


hope the mailman doesn`t fall off your roof without proper workmans comp and roofing insurance
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Old 02-24-2008, 08:53 AM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roofboy View Post
Hello,

With the snow load that you may get each year I would advise you to tear it all off and start fresh. I install a lot of metal and the added weight of that plus the snow, plus the old roofing would be too much weight(IMO). Ed makes some very good points about the codes and such also.


Keith


I'm not sure the snow load would be of concern here for a couple reasons:

1) The pitch of the roof wouldn't allow any snow to stay on the roof
2)I see plywood sheathing has already been installed(as evidenced by the pics)so there may only be two layers on that roof.

As mentioned by Ed.
I doubt, from your photos, that you have 4 layers on there currently

If you try to count the layers of existing roofing from the eaves or rakes,it's possible that you are counting the starter course or solger course as a layer.
Since plywood has been installed already,I doubt there could be more than two layers because roofing practices 40 years ago(the age of the two existing layers)was to just keep adding over the existing.

A lot of Inspectors will allow a roof-over of metal roofing with two existing layers of asphalt because of the relative weightlessness of the metal roofing and the fact that the snow will not remain on the roof.

1)I would however replace/reinforce broken and missing rafters.
2)Check the structural integrity of the moisture laden areas.
Is this old water damage?From recent leaks?

When addressing the ventilation aspect of the project,pay attention to the area where the exterior walls meet the roof.
I these older homes,the balloon framing would allow heat to escape up the exterior framing to the attic area very easily.Insure that the bays of the framing are insulated to prevent heat loss into the attic which could add to excessive moisture problems.


Check with your local official for his interpitation of the codes as far as the # of layers with a metal roof.

Depending on your budget and the local codes,a roof -over may be a viable remedy here.

Just make sure ,as mentioned in other replies,that there isn't a lot of wet molding wood.
It's hard to tell from the pics if the stains are old or new and
I've seen a lot of homes where the roof had been repaired and the ceilings never repainted.Yes,even 40 years later.

Just trying to cover all the options for you and offer a secondary opinion.
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Old 02-24-2008, 09:12 PM   #40
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Metal roof???


We had a land contract with someone. They lived in our house for about 3 years. Not sure exactly how old the leaks are. Their are three leaks that I can see. One in our open room upstairs. A small leak that is letting water in. The other is a leak in an extra room that we have upstairs in the crawl space. And finally our bathroom ceiling downstairs on the main level has a leak. That section of the roof is actually missing some shingles. Their are a few outside on the ground that fell of that section of the roof. I'll include some pictures.

I would love to just do a roof over. But there is mold all over the outside of the shingles in plain site. At least on one section of the roof. Plus the molded ceilings and what looks to be mold on the plastered walls also. Got to think I just get a tear off done and then let them put up new plywood "if needed" and new shingles. Then start on some interior work...Walls and ceilings...

Below are pictures of the open room leak. Crawl space leak and Bathroom ceiling leaks.

That 2nd skinny piece of wood up is where the open room leak is. That is right after it rained. That Dark Brown spot there.
Attached Thumbnails
Metal roof???-hpim0804a.jpg   Metal roof???-hpim0806.jpg   Metal roof???-bathroomceiling.jpg   Metal roof???-bathroomceiling2.jpg   Metal roof???-bathroomceiling4.jpg  


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Old 02-24-2008, 11:09 PM   #41
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Metal roof???


After seeing these pics ,I think a complete tear off and re-shingle or metal roof would be the way to go.
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Old 02-25-2008, 10:44 AM   #42
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Yeah got to agree. These leaks have done some real damage. Thanks for the info though.
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Old 02-25-2008, 09:14 PM   #43
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Metal roof???


Did a little research and i got to think this is what my roof is basically...

So I'm not going to need any plywood?? once the roof is torn off and they put up a new one?

Or am I going to be putting down New Sheathing??? is Sheathing also known as OSB???

Those whitish-looking narrow boards... I believe those were the original roofing strips when the house was built. In 1907 most houses were roofed with cedar shakes, not asphalt composition shingles. Wood shake or shingle roofs do not require a full deck of sheathing, only narrow strips of wood spaced about 6 inches apart. At some point in the past century they added wood planks between those narrow boards.
The old solid wood sheathing had many holes like these.

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Old 02-25-2008, 09:54 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed the Roofer View Post
With the amount of moisture that has already affected the rafters and decking, not to even mention the soaking of the insulation, this should be a "No-Brainer" to decide on removing the existing roof layers, whether 2 layers or 4 layers, just for the fact of repairing the wet and rotted wood and to have access to the attic to efficiently replace the wet insulation.

From your interior attic photos, I would guess that this home once had a cedar shingle roof on it, which lasted at least 50 years on top of skip shething, space board decking. Then, either after an additional layer of composition shingles were added, which would have lasted 20-30 years, the previous owner had the roofs removed down to the skip sheathing. The decking is now solid sheating, with either the gaps being filled in, or the new sheathing being applied over the spaced decking.

I doubt, from your photos, that you have 4 layers on there currently, but you still need to remove the old roofs to do the repair properly and replace the rotted sections. There also may be more evidence of mold growth gowing on, as the section of rafters in one photo clearly showed significant growth already.

When the roof is being done, ensure that you have a properly balanced system of fresh air intake ventilation and roof top, ridge exhaust ventilation.

Ed

The severely rotted decking should still get replaced.

No need for new plywood on top, as long as the roofing contractor who is installing the shingles does not get the nailing line in alignment with the fill in boards. Those firring strips were added after the original cedar shingle layer plus whatever amount of layers of asphalt composition shingles were torn off ??? many years ago. Those firring strips, or whitish boards definitely were NOT installed in 1907.

The problem with nailing the shingles into the thin firring strips, would be that they either crack or not supply enough holding pull out resistance strength for the nails from the newly applied shingles.

Ed
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Old 02-25-2008, 10:07 PM   #45
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Metal roof???


Thanks Ed. I got some good questions to ask some local roofers now. Thanks for all he info. No new plywood is good. Replacing the rotted decking shouldn't be to bad. Going to get a few estimates now. Thanks again.

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