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-   -   Looking for advice on how to keep water off this short rake (http://www.diychatroom.com/f9/looking-advice-how-keep-water-off-short-rake-47191/)

Neo 06-21-2009 11:50 PM

Looking for advice on how to keep water off this short rake
 
2 Attachment(s)
Hi, I'm tackling a roofing project this next week, been trying to educate myself on the web, and I have to say this is a bigger project than I first thought... But I'm committed now, and it's a small town, w/ not a lot of options for roofing. But I digress.

I've got one area on the roof that I'd like to improve if possible, because it's got leakage issues now (luckily it's out in the eve). I'm sure I'll be replacing decking because this area is a mess right now. I'm going to put ice and water shield (double width) in the valley and across the eve, so that should help. Was thinking I'd but some gutter apron up the short rake as well.

Any suggestions on how to add some flashing to direct the water away from the rake edge, would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks for your time and suggestions. Pictures below (assuming I get them attached).

buletbob 06-22-2009 06:35 AM

If your going to be replacing the roof decking then your best option would be to extend the lower roof overhang another foot or so. that is what should of been done to begin with when the house or extension was built. BOB

Neo 06-22-2009 09:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by buletbob (Post 291082)
If your going to be replacing the roof decking then your best option would be to extend the lower roof overhang another foot or so. that is what should of been done to begin with when the house or extension was built. BOB

That's a little more aggressive than I was thinking (I'm feeling overwhelmed by the roofing at this point, so many little things to keep straight), but I'll keep it in mind. This house was built 32 years ago, I have no idea why they did the roof line like they did, then again, I have no idea why I can see nails all along the eve/rake as well ;)

Thanks for the suggestion!

Slyfox 06-22-2009 03:26 PM

Replace the bad wood/lumber than install the new roof properly this time.

Run a course of ice & water shield across the eave, it will actually cover all the little rake, use drip edge on the '1 1/2" face' rake and give a 1/2 to 3/4 inch over hang instead of cutting the shingles even the drip edge, fasten properly and that's that.

Neo 06-22-2009 09:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Slyfox (Post 291274)
Replace the bad wood/lumber than install the new roof properly this time.

Run a course of ice & water shield across the eave, it will actually cover all the little rake, use drip edge on the '1 1/2" face' rake and give a 1/2 to 3/4 inch over hang instead of cutting the shingles even the drip edge, fasten properly and that's that.

Slyfox, thanks for your input!

I'm expecting to replace decking, facia and part of a rafter or two in that area. Will replace the soffit when we upgrade to vented aluminum to complement the Ridge vent that's going in. Driving into Denver to pick up Shingle Vent II tomorrow, no body has it locally here that sells to me anyway :wink: When the soffit gets vented I'll seal up the gable vents that are the attic venting that's currently there.

Back on track...

Would going a couple inches down (e.g. covered by drip edge for aesthetics) the smaller rake suffice, or should it really go to the bottom?

I'll wrap the I&W down the face of the other gable/rake as well, and cover it w/ the D style edge that I'll be applying there. If it should go all the way down, I'll cover it w/ some backing, or can you paint it???

I take it the shingles are typically cut almost level on a rake edge when using the ODE style drip? (I read some more about this appears to vary based upon location. Mine isn't too high wind, so I'll leave 1/2" on the rakes, and extra in the little one say 3/4-1")

Thanks again for your input.

Slyfox 06-23-2009 07:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Neo (Post 291451)
Slyfox, thanks for your input!

I'm expecting to replace decking, facia and part of a rafter or two in that area. Will replace the soffit when we upgrade to vented aluminum to complement the Ridge vent that's going in. Driving into Denver to pick up Shingle Vent II tomorrow, no body has it locally here that sells to me anyway :wink: When the soffit gets vented I'll seal up the gable vents that are the attic venting that's currently there.

Back on track...

Would going a couple inches down (e.g. covered by drip edge for aesthetics) the smaller rake suffice, or should it really go to the bottom?

I'll wrap the I&W down the face of the other gable/rake as well, and cover it w/ the D style edge that I'll be applying there. If it should go all the way down, I'll cover it w/ some backing, or can you paint it???

I take it the shingles are typically cut almost level on a rake edge when using the ODE style drip? (I read some more about this appears to vary based upon location. Mine isn't too high wind, so I'll leave 1/2" on the rakes, and extra in the little one say 3/4-1")

Thanks again for your input.

I was talking about one course of I&W would cover all the little rake deck wise, it only needs to curl over/down onto the facial 1 - 2".

Neo 06-23-2009 09:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Slyfox (Post 291592)
I was talking about one course of I&W would cover all the little rake deck wise, it only needs to curl over/down onto the facial 1 - 2".

Perfect! That's how I'll do it.

Thanks!

tinner666 06-23-2009 11:24 AM

Run the shingles 1 to 1-1/4" past the rakes. Run the valley metal an 1-1/2 past the shingles. Fold the extra 1-1/2" up vertically to keep water from shooting over the rake edge.

Neo 06-24-2009 12:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tinner666 (Post 291684)
Run the shingles 1 to 1-1/4" past the rakes. Run the valley metal an 1-1/2 past the shingles. Fold the extra 1-1/2" up vertically to keep water from shooting over the rake edge.

Not using valley metal this time, but thanks for the suggestion!

MJW 06-24-2009 08:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Neo (Post 292109)
Not using valley metal this time, but thanks for the suggestion!

Huh? :huh:

In Colorado...:eek:

Neo 06-24-2009 08:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MJW (Post 292181)
Huh? :huh:

In Colorado...:eek:

Wyoming actually. Are you saying there should still be valley metal underneath, even if it's not exposed? I'm using Ice and Water shield underneath, is that not sufficient?

MJW 06-24-2009 08:42 AM

We don't do closed valleys, so maybe one of the others could help you. When we did in the past, we used flat metal in the valley underneath the shingles. Code here is a 24" wide valley metal with I&W underneath.

Slyfox 06-24-2009 05:42 PM

I have never worked in your area so I don't know what the codes may be in your area, in my area we use one or the other because either works in a closed valley situation.

Neo 07-06-2009 11:16 PM

Wow
 
2 Attachment(s)
First off, I have a new found respect for roofers. My knees have never hurt so much. I spent 9.5 days working 12-13 hours most days. Had help from a couple of buddies most of the time, but none of us had any roofing experience. Hats off to those of you doing this day in day out.

Here's picture of what I found after tearing off the roof. removed the decking, cut out the rotted wood, replaced w/ fresh lumber and sistered it back up to the rafter, then replaced the decking and facia. Added Ice and Water shield, wrapped over the edges, applied drip edge and provided extra overhang for the shingles.

Here's a shot after it's done (still need to trip some gable edge shingles...).

Thanks again for all the tips! :notworthy:


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