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Old 08-05-2012, 05:22 AM   #16
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Leaky vent stack, need advice on materials and install


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Even year I inspect dozens of rubber-gasket type vent stack flashings which have failed.



IMO, the "old school" solution of a lead flashing bent inwards over the top of the stack is FAR superior.



I have seen literally thousands of these - without finding one which has failed except as a result of mechanical damage.
Got to agree 100% with Michael Thomas here.
I used a lead slate where the oil boiler flue comes through the roof of an extension I'm building at home. The only difference is that the flue goes well above the ridge, so a cap and sealant are used instead of it going up to the top. Lead slates and flashings can last well over 100 years.
It's best to put some patination oil over them when installed to prevent the white staining on the roof though.
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Old 08-05-2012, 07:02 AM   #17
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Leaky vent stack, need advice on materials and install


I thought I mentioned it before. Maybe not.
Under the shingles on the sides, I toenail the flange, just snug to prevent uplift. I've ever caulked the top of bottom of the flange, though if I was going to do so, I've put the caulk at the very outer edge ONLY, after toenailing.

The lead or copper collars are superior. As Michael showed in his pic, the plastic bottom ones only split on the top, so the only repair truly necessary is to cover the top with another one, with the flange removed. Doing it at the beginning should give 20 years, instead of 6,8, or maybe even 10 years between leaks.
You can't do that with the metal/rubber ones. Notice the brand name.
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Old 09-06-2012, 03:33 PM   #18
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Leaky vent stack, need advice on materials and install


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Here's a link to a power vent install. It's the same as yours, only LOTS bigger. No need for cement anywhere. I just toe-nail the sides down so the shingles cover the nails.. One nail in each upper corner.
http://www.albertsroofing.com/Power%20Vent%20Installation.htm
hey tinner - i read the article at that link and that might explain why I'm seeing a problem on my wood stove flashing. My apologies for jumping on this thread, but this is maybe an "a-ha" moment for me.

I have a wood stove flashing assembly for the insulated stainless steel chimney (flashing is all one piece, galvanized). The installer apparently did NOT follow the 50% rule of thumb for running shingle under the flashing. They did what the link suggests that "a lot of roofers do" - they hid most of the flashing. It's a nice looking job, but I just noticed a slight leak after a windy downpour this past weekend - right under this area (a couple drips on the corner of my woodstove). I went up on the roof and it seems to me that the water running down the flashing probably got pushed sideways by the wind and got under the edge of the shingle and beyond.

This is a relatively new roof on an addition, but no warranty left. I really hate to have to tear out this flashing and re-install. All the materials seem to be in great shape, but I'm thinking the problem is the way it was installed - it should have been done as in the link you posted. Can I seal under the edges of the shingles, on top of the flashing (down the sides) to address this issue? I'm ok with a temp fix as the older part of my roof will probably need a replacement in 1 or 2 years and I can get the roofer to take care of this at that time with a more permanent fix.

Thanks for the help......

Last edited by rtoni; 09-06-2012 at 04:00 PM.
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Old 09-06-2012, 10:44 PM   #19
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Leaky vent stack, need advice on materials and install


Instead of caulking anything, other than nail holes, cut those shingles off the bottom of the flange and open it up for water flow. Then look under the side shingles and if you see any squared off tops, taper them back. Caulk any holes in the bottom of the collar. That would give a better job.
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Old 09-06-2012, 11:11 PM   #20
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Leaky vent stack, need advice on materials and install


Haven't seen this mentioned yet. Another possible solution...

http://www.permabootstore.com/
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Old 09-07-2012, 10:06 AM   #21
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Leaky vent stack, need advice on materials and install


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Instead of caulking anything, other than nail holes, cut those shingles off the bottom of the flange and open it up for water flow. Then look under the side shingles and if you see any squared off tops, taper them back. Caulk any holes in the bottom of the collar. That would give a better job.
thanks very much for the reply. I hope I didn't confuse things with my post when I said they "hid" the flashing - I don't have a pic from my roof so I stole a snip from your link, as this is pretty much exactly how my flashing was installed too (the flashing is exposed at the bottom but the shingles overlap the sides of the flange all the way to the bottom, except for the last inch or so).

I put red outlines around the shingles that I think water got pushed under but to be honest could have also been higher up on the side. So should I cut the last (bottom) overlapping shingles off over the flange (water can run off without getting under this shingle?), and also taper any square tops --- or should I just taper any square tops? Sorry if I'm being really thick here, just want to make sure I didn't get good advice based on a bad description on my part earlier.

thanks again...
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Old 09-07-2012, 01:54 PM   #22
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Leaky vent stack, need advice on materials and install


Just cut the square tops off. They catch lots of water and send it under the roof.
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Old 09-07-2012, 02:03 PM   #23
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Leaky vent stack, need advice on materials and install


I will try that - thank you very much for your help....

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