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Old 09-25-2012, 05:30 AM   #16
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Leaks on porch roof


Looks like we now have a comedian to confuse the OP even more. Just disregard Vandel entirely.
For instance, "you can see the Nail line "ALMOST" this isnt a serious factor though." No almost about it. and no nails there either. Just one of many 'errors'.

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Old 09-26-2012, 12:51 PM   #17
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Leaks on porch roof


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Sure was.

Have you ever had a real roofing come take a look at this and give you a price on redoing it?

Yes, someone came but after tearing the shingles off and shingled back up, the leaks were still there. And the people who build the porch for us didn't fix the leak either. Thus, I became deeply skeptical and tried to fix the leaks ourselves.
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Old 09-26-2012, 11:37 PM   #18
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Leaks on porch roof


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Looks like we now have a comedian to confuse the OP even more. Just disregard Vandel entirely.
For instance, "you can see the Nail line "ALMOST" this isnt a serious factor though." No almost about it. and no nails there either. Just one of many 'errors'.
just stating that isnt the issue for its leak its still got its coverage by the seam and isnt down that low to cause it to leak, nails still can be in the doubler layer they got like 3/4 inch of double layer for its nail line but, judging by the photos n the work i would guess its high nailed but! that isnt a cause of leak, more likely to cause a blow off is all.

it just simple shows poor shingling is all, wasnt chalkline and was poorly tabbed.
obviously its suppose to go at least on that straight edge or even over hang.

but, what i stated isnt commentary lol
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Old 09-27-2012, 07:07 AM   #19
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Leaks on porch roof


Everything Joe said is correct. You're getting a lot of good/bad advice on the fix.
1. It all has to come off the porch & 3-4 courses up the steep-slope portion. New shingles should start no less than 6" above low-slope/steep-slope transition.
2. Sheathing should be at least 5/8" plywood assuming rafters are no more than 24"OC.
3. Porch requires low-slope roofing system. Take your pick. TPO, EPDM, BUR - whatever. Must be treated as a flat roof, inadequate slope for shingles without professional expertise.
4. Flashings are wrong. Get estimates and find the guy who agrees with me and can show you a lot of past experience and references for chimney flashing, valleys, crickets,returns and flat/sloped transitions.

This roof, as is usually the case, is beyond the skill-set of most DIYers and requires a proven pro.

Like Roofer Mike Inc at https://www.facebook.com/pages/Roofe...37625929645476

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Old 09-27-2012, 07:31 AM   #20
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Leaks on porch roof


My jaw dropped when I saw how they built that roof system.
Just how long a run is the roof from the gutters to where it changes angles on the upper roof?
Looks like way under sized rafters for that long a run. someone really butchered trying to sister the old rotted rafters, what they put in is doing 0 good, looks like a drunken sailor installed the blocking.
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Old 09-27-2012, 01:10 PM   #21
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BTW, EPDM is the rubber product made for low pitch porch roofs like that. Shingles aren't intended for the prupose, They are water resistant, NOT water proof.


Where can I find this product???
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Old 09-27-2012, 01:53 PM   #22
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Where can I find this product???
Your local ABC Supply, Bradco Supply, of most any roofing supply house. Get the .060. Looking at the trees in the pic, you might be better with the reinforced that the non reinforced.
The sales staff will likely lead you to the .045 EPDM. Ignore that advice!
Ask for the foreman's manual and read the details carefully. Use seam tape instead of splice adhesive. Only use the commercial grade .024 aluminum drip edge.
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Old 09-27-2012, 02:03 PM   #23
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Yours is pretty simple and easy. After you remove the shingle to the ridge, repair all the wood. Then apply .060 reinforced EPDM from the gutter to 3' above the break. Flash in the chimney, etc. and recap the ridge.


After applying .060 reinforced EPDM, then I install the shingles?
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Old 09-27-2012, 02:36 PM   #24
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Leaks on porch roof


Yes, run the EPDM 3' above the break. Also do the roof around the chimney in EPDM and about 3' out to the sides of it. Then, when you do the shingles, lap about 1' or so onto the EPDM. Run them in a slight taper getting slightly closer to the chimney by about 1/2" on each course. This will prevent water from catching on the top edge of any shingle and running across the roof. Also taper the top 1/2 of each shingle itself, away from the chimney. You don't want squared tops on them there. Look at the valley photos on my website to learn more.
Feel free to call for clarification if necessary.

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