Leaks on porch roof
I have 4 leaks on the back porch. We have tried to fix the problem several times but we haven't been successful. On the contrary, it seems that every time we climb up to the roof, more leaks appear. We started with one leak, now we have 4.
I have enclosed some pictures so you gays can tell me how to fix those leaks. The leaks are:
1.Where you see the piece of stick on the roof,
2.On the right corner of chimney
3.Where the piece of metal paper is, and
4.Where the porch roof meets with the house roof. On the left side of chimney
I've been thinking to apply tarp or any kind of sealant. If someone know of a good one please let me know.
Thank you so much
Do you know how to check the pitch on a roof?
How many layers are on there?
There not one thing I can see that was done right on that roof.
There's just no way to just patch that one, the shingles and all the underlayment have to come off.
That's a very low slope roof so special care and added steps needed to be taken to keep it from leaking.
The exposure is off on all the shingles, some are so bad the adhesive is showing.
The chimney is flashed wrong.
Cricket shingles were installed wrong.
Looks like I can see exposed nails.
The siding never should have been in contact with the shingles.
No way to tell without removing the shingles but it looks like someone used the wrong thickness of sheathing or did not use H clips between the rafters causing the sagging. May even be someone installed new shingles over rotten sheathing.
There was a few more but I forgot what the were.
Yours is pretty simple and easy. After you remove the shingle to the ridge, repair all the wood. Then apply .060 reinforced EPDM from the gutter to 3' above the break. Flash in the chimney, etc. and recap the ridge.
Leaks on roof's porch
JoeCaption. Please give me a break!. We have changed shingle and rotten wood for about 3 times.
_Pitch is a 15 or 20
_Theres is only one layer
_We have never installed new shingles over rotten wood
_There is no adhesive on shingle, what you probably saw is the white line on shingle.
_We paid special attention to place the shingle right over the white line drawn on the shingle
-What you mean with "The siding never should have been in contact with the shingles. (what is the siding?)
After several attempts to fix this issue, we have find out that the root of the problem is where the porch's roof meets with the house's roof. We started with one leak on the right hand side of chimney. We stripped the shingle on the area, installed flashing, covered it with tarp an applied new shingles and the leak remained afterwards although in a smaller amount.
We also stripped the shingles on the break and performed the same steps. We were able to stopped only one leak so far.
On a low slope roof the shingles should have been run with less exposure which would mean it should have been way below the while line. And that white line was to tell you where to nail them not the where to set them. So there setting way further apart then they should have been. There's one row that's so bad up where the roof changes angles you can see the row of adhesive, so it's off by about 3" from where it should have been.
A low slope also calls for Storm and Ice shield or at least a double layer of roofing paper.
No roof done right would look like the waves in the ocean.
You can try and patch that roof till the cows come home but it's still going to leak. It needs to come off and be completely done over by someone that knows what there doing.
Here's the install manual for some Timberline shingles, all that type shingles are all installed the same so the brand really does not matter if yours are differant.
Most of us posting back to you do this stuff for a living, where not just coming up with stuff to give you a hard time.
Leaks on roof's porch
Thinner666- Remove the shingle all the way to the ridge????. The problem is on the porch's roof not on the entire house's roof. We have removed shingle and repair rotten wood on the porch though, like tree times.
Anyway, the problem is where the porch's roof meets with the house's roof. We have one leaks on the right side of the chimney. We took off shingle on that area and installed flashing and felt. We even applied tarp over the flashing, but since the leak was still there, we checked inside the attic but no signs of water there.
We also have another leak on the left hand side of chimney, also did the same thing, but leak still there. So what I want to do now is to apply any kind of sealant over the shingle or even apply new shingles over. The problem is I don't know of any good sealant.
By the way, what is .o60 reinforced EPDM???
This is what you chimmney should have looked like.
Well, you possibly could remove everything on the porch, and only go 1/2 up from the break to the ridge and try to tie it in. The chimney isn't correctly flashed. The shingles aren't correctly installed. The transition is also incorrect. The deep troughs between rafters here and there are wrong and need to be corrected. Joe pointed out some of those things.
Truth is, I don't see anything done correctly anywhere on the roof. Simplest course of action is to tear it all offa nd start again.
BTW, EPDM is the rubber product made for low pitch porch roofs like that. Shingles aren't intended for the prupose, They are water resistant, NOT water proof.
After several attempts to fix this issue, we have find out that the root of the problem is where the porch's roof meets with the house's roof. We started with one leak on the right hand side of chimney. We stripped the shingle on the area, installed flashing, covered it with tarp an applied new shingles and the leak remained afterwards although in a smaller amount
Are you saying you shingled over a tarp?
That was wrong hah
Have you ever had a real roofing come take a look at this and give you a price on redoing it?
Ok, Its set then. We going to tear the whole roof down. This will be the 4th time doing that. I only hope this time I found someone that like you said, really knows how to do the job. The porch was an addition to the house 8 years ago and we hired a "professional" to do the job, but not long after the porch was finished, it started to leak. We called the guy back and he just spread tarp around the chimney. Back then, we knew zero about roofing, so we though tarp was a good sealer.
And for the 2nd time, we hired another professional. He tore part of the roof up, changed rotten wood and apply new shingle, but never stopped the leak.
Well, Joe, I can't thank you enough for giving me your expert advice. I have been so overwhelm for this issue that having had some tips from you, has helped me greatly.
I wish more people understood the value of sarcasm when coming onto a forum to ask for free advise of its members. It will certainly get you the best possible responses from the members. I know a good turn-of-phrase will get my creative juices flowing and getting me to think outside the box .....
couple things i would like to point out.
@Photo 1+2 with the low slope/rooted wood and the dip in the roof
For a pitch this low (2/12) you can get low slope shingles which have a seal strip on the bottom of the shingle and in the middle on the back of the shingle.
the purpose of the seal strip in the middle is a crucial factor when it comes to low slope, we need to think about water flow here that is all roofing is guys, so in order for your roof to leak what has to happen is where the seams of your shingles are "2 shingles butt together" the water has 2-3 inches of coverage from the seam to the top of the shingle underneath those 2 butt shingles before it will leak. there fore those middle seal strips prevent the water from back tracking up those 2-3 inches and helps cover nails that can cause slow leaks ICE AND WATER THE WHOLE LOW SLOPE so the ice and water metals around the perimeter of the nail sealing it off"BUT,! this is very important part" just because it has those seals you are not 100% in the right, what needs to be done is put tar manually across each row on the top part of the shingle in a solid line so the water has no way of back up! its water flow were dealing with people, lets pretend we are the water. low slope shingles u can ge away with just taring the seam area on the top but, would give it a hell of a job if you did a solid bead across the whole top.
Please ask a question if that explanation was confuses or didnt get the point out, i understand it can be confusing and i might not be the greatest at wording this stuff but, imma do my best for you.
@photo 1+2 still, the dips in the roof should be fixed (tear shingles up and replace boards/plywood so you got a flat surface to deal with)
@photo1+2 Inspect your attic insulation, the smallest bit that is exposed/ not insulated can actually cause problems and for low slope this is something that should be gone to a "T" poor insulation will have hot/heat spot sdin your attic causing ice dams "snow melts then refreezes and repeats causes back ups)
@photo 3 Yes you can see the Nail line "ALMOST" this isnt a serious factor though. it is more of a LOOKS issue when its so small such as the photo shown (1/4 in / 1/2in) yes it takes that small amount away from its coverage and area that the water needs to back up but, if everything is done properly that will not cause your leak that is out of the question in this situation
@photo4 Ice and water shield should be places up the wall of the chimney and to take extreme caution while shingling this chimney due to its low slope this is going to seem like a over kill but this is going to do the job and make a low slope roof with shingles effective, Each shingle going up towards the wall needs to be Tar'd on the bottom from the top to the bottom of the shingle then placed down, the bead then goes across the top of the shingle, step flashing over that bead then so the water wont back under the step flashing area, then a bit on that piece of step flashing in the same zone "top of the shingle but across the flashing.
@photo4 the backpan of the chimney
once you reach the back pan this is the most common spot to get leaks, to the same steps as stated before with the taring, for the last pieice of step flashing that will get cut at the corner of the back pan YOU WILL NOT USE METAL step flashing! you will get a small peice of lead and make a peice of step flashing the same size but mold it around the corner once again using tar in the same areas as stated before,
using this method you can shingle a 1/12 and sleep without worries, trust me this is one of the only ways to shingle a 1/12 a chimney / roof and get away with it.
@photo5 for this part you will have to take off the fascia board and make sure there is step flashing up those walls all the way up and make sure those shingles go under that fasica board and not butt next to it, you will need to cut a slit in the low slope to get that last shingle up there
if you dont like this method then hey go with the torch down roofing that is another way to go about this, i dont like torching to brick though, years down the road the torch on will break away from the brick, use counter flashing over the top/bead of the torch on aswell, and throw a bead of sealant over the top of the torch on bead as well "winter worries"
going to the extreme haha
|All times are GMT -5. The time now is 11:45 PM.|
vBulletin Security provided by vBSecurity v2.2.2 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2017 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
User Alert System provided by Advanced User Tagging (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2017 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.