Leaking Valley

jeff2201

I have two valleys over my garage that have become less than desireable. From the looks of it, it appears that the roof is on it's third layer of shingles, which for the most part look to be in decent condition and I was hoping to get two to five more years out of. It looks as if the first two layers were closed and the third layer is open because of the way it's cut. Is there a way to fix this valley on the cheap myself? I was thinking of just putting a new flashing under the third layer of shingles (the first two are so degraded that they crumble). Is there a better way to approach this? And what would be a reasonable price to pay to have it done by a professional?

Thanks for the help,
Jeff

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mae-ling

Impossible to say what price would be. To do it right shingles have to be peeled back, new valley flashing/membrane put in then shingles put back on top. This can be impossible to do without breaking shingles so new ones may be needed.

jeff2201

I have a couple of spare bundles so I'm not worried about breaking a few shingles. Is it acceptable to pull back only the third lay and put new flashing down ontop of what is already there? I'm not necessarily trying to do it right, but to make it work for another couple of years.

Windows on Wash

If it were my home, I would probably just strip that whole side of the roof so that everything looked somewhat similar. By the time you peal back far enough, you are going to have two pretty big eyebrows staring back at you. You house will look angry.

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seeyou

[quote=jeff2201;813788Is it acceptable to pull back only the third lay and put new flashing down ontop of what is already there? I'm not necessarily trying to do it right, but to make it work for another couple of years.[/quote]

That might work, but unfortunately with overlays, if there's a breach somewhere above that valley, water often runs between layers. If you're positive the valley is the source of the leak, then your idea should work.

rossfingal

I've done this several times - similar situation.
You state that you have a "couple" of bundles of shingles -
good - you might need more.
You'll have to take a "sharp", flat-bar and remove several courses of
shingles, above the point at which the smaller roof meets the main roof.
Remove several feet of the ridge-cap on the smaller roof.
Then, starting at the top of the smaller roof - carefully, break the seal between the shingles -
remove the shingles (2 to 3 feet away from the valleys) pulling the nails, carefully.
Try not to break any of the shingles.
You'll have to work the new, shingles back into the shingles left on the roof.

Putting "valleys" in? - if you mean some type of metal valley (aluminum,
copper, galvanized) - why?
You say you want to get 3 to 5 years?
Why put metal in?!?
If you're going to tear-off the roof - in 3 to 5 years - the metal is going to have to go - scrap.
We would not re-use "any" metal" on a re-roof.
Why put metal in the valleys, when it's going to be removed - torn-off.

Membrane/Ice and Water/something?- waste.
A membrane of some sort, is useless unless you take the shingles off, down to the wood.
It doesn't sound like you want to do that.

I'm talking a "band-aid", something to "buy you some time".
Will you get 3 to 5+ years? - maybe, maybe not.
I hate to say this - whoever did the last layer of shingles on your roof - messed it up.
However, we're not talking about a "definitive", "correct", job -
we're talking a "band-aid" - aren't we?
I would put roll-roofing, in the valleys and re-install the shingles - get some good sealant -
not, "Tar"! - (Quad, Solar-Seal....)
(Use nails long enough, to get through all the layers of shingles, and penetrate the roof sheathing - 2 inch?)

Would we put a "band-aid", of this type on and guarantee it - No - not for 5 years, not for a year.
Is this a "DIY" job?
Possibly - possibly, not.
Cost?
If I did it for the company I worked for (years ago) - at least, $700 to $1000, minimum.

You probably should find somebody, in your area, who has some degree of experience with roofing/valleys -
to give you some giudance.
(Valleys, don't fall under, "Roofing 101" - no offense!)
Just some information.
Just an opinion.
(The opinions expressed here, are not, those of the establishment)

RF

ParagonEx

What is your reasoning for not replacing the entire roof? From the looks of the picture, the rest of the roof may be shot as well.

Depending on your location you could pay as much as 3k to have the valley redone and then have to pay that again when the roof needs to get re-done in a few years.

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rossfingal

"DIY"
The "OP" wants feed-back for doing a "DIY" job.
I would tend, to agree with "Windows on Wash" and "seeyou" - as far as
the way to deal with this.
However ---
The OP has stated - they're trying to put a "band-aid" on -
"buying some time" - 3 to 5 years.
The reasoning might be - "insufficient funds", at the moment.

rossfingal

tinner666

There is one other option that may be easier. Not sure how to explain this, though here's the gist; You could take shingles cut into 12" tabs and starting at the bottom, weave them in, into and under the existing valley shingles, just like the caps are run on the ridge. Less disruptive of the field shingles. By weaving, slide the first one in, then the second goes on top of the back of the first course of field shingles, and under the second row. Weaved, get it? Done correctly, NO lower edges of the weaved valley pieces will buck the water.

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Frank

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ParagonEx

My apologies for offering a long term solution that will ultimately be less costly.

You're also assuming the reasoning. We don't know what that could be.

If you want a cheap short term fix, buy a gallon of tar.

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rossfingal

"ParagonEx"
No apologies required!
The "reasoning" - the OP wants to get 2 to 5 more years out of the
existing roof.
I think they might need more than 1 gal. of tar.

I actually, prefer what "Tinner666", has suggested.
Less expensive - faster.
We always try to steer people away from "band-aids" -
However, for whatever reason - people want what they want.

rossfingal

mae-ling

Tinner - neat idea. With only 12" what fear is there of water getting under the shingles on the sides of the valley?

tinner666

"With only 12" what fear is there of water getting under the shingles on the sides of the valley?"
Not too much. It looks as if the open area is 4" or less. If he gets it right, about as much chance as the cap of leaking. There won't be more than a 5" area of 'risk' per piece installed. It should work like step flashing.
BTW, Jeff, if you pull any nails or make any other hole, seal it when you weave over it.

Most of the valleys I see around here are 12" or 14" metal, wit and without hemmed edges. I've seen some of 10" metal and the shingles were properly clipped, the edges unhemmed, and they never leaked.

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Frank

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Roofmaster417

Just weave in with some arch's.,,,Temporary does not always look pretty.

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