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Old 02-23-2014, 08:00 PM   #16
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The purpose of heat cable is to provide a tunnel through the snow and ice for water to exit the roof, not to melt the snow. The cable should be right in the valley, and should run through and down the downspouts so water has a continuous path to grade. Obviously, you do not want to fasten through the valley, so using a creative system to secure the cable will be required.

The typical rule of thumb in applying ice dams on your home is not going to cut it. That rule is to extend ice dams protection membrane minimum 2 feet inside the exterior wall line from the eaves. With your house, I would have laid the whole roof in ice dams because of all the snow traps you have. This house design would work well below the Mason Dixon line, but damn sure not in Canada, IMHO.

You may want to consider an architectural metal panel with sealant in the ribs, over a slip sheet, over continuous ice dams membrane for this application. It wont be cheap though, because there will be a lot of waste with all those valleys. You will need snow rails though like the S-5 or similar.


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Last edited by jagans; 02-23-2014 at 08:05 PM.
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Old 02-24-2014, 03:52 PM   #17
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Metal Roof

If you come to find that fixing this issue is going to be a substantial cost, one recommendation is to get a metal roof before going into a ton of cost. Depending on the size of your roof, you can possibly get it done by a contractor for 10,000 dollars or less. If you do it yourself - possibly around 3000-4000 dollars, unless I am underestimating the size of your roof. I know it is large, so that figure is round about.

The metal has far less problems with the ice and snow staying on it, especially with the pitch that your roof is at. It has a heavy pitch and the snow would slide off pretty well.

Not saying to do this if you have other options, but if before you think you have to put too much cost into it, then I would go that route. If you can do it yourself, it goes much faster than shingles, and odds are the zoning codes where you are at require that you insulate it, which may add only 1000 dollars to the cost.
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Old 02-24-2014, 09:53 PM   #18
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You should be able to see daylight coming from all soffit punches for venting without the light on during the day. IF not, it may be solid sheathed soffit with vents for looks. The exhaust vents may not be balanced for the intakes, especially with the trusses running parallel to the ridge while other side is unblocked from any top chord framing lumber slowing the stack effect for drying.
1. measure the turtle back holes through the sheathing above (just one)
2. open a window and insert a wire in a punched soffit hole at multiple locations, don't fall out window
3. tell us the soffit venting and exhaust to figure the NFVA due to excessive moisture on sheathing

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17,000 dryer fires a year, when did you last clean the inside of the dryer near motor or the exhaust ducting?
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Old 04-03-2014, 10:09 AM   #19
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@ jagans
You have said well, and I agree with your words that the piping must be kept away from the outside surface of roof.


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