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-   -   Leak due to broken sheathing. Repair advice? (http://www.diychatroom.com/f9/leak-due-broken-sheathing-repair-advice-181825/)

Dave88LX 06-14-2013 09:18 AM

Leak due to broken sheathing. Repair advice?
 
I was up in my attic yesterday during the heavy rainfall and noticed a drip near my ridge. I looked closer, and my sheathing is cracked, like someone too heavy stepped on it. Also, the the top row of sheathing is only a foot wide, so I can see where there wouldn't be a whole lot of strength.

Anyone care to walk me through this repair? I can figure most of it out looking through the forum etc.

Any questions for me to further guide me?

"Regular" roof:
http://dave88lx.com/gallery/albums/u...2/P1060543.JPG


You can see the crack, and you can also see the water drop.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-n...613_163751.jpg



Does this damage look like anything in particular? This is a few feet over from the above drip; unrelated. Pile of sawdust like stuff on the floor, and this above. I pushed on the sheathing here, and it's not being held to the trusses, it's loose.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-B...613_164259.jpg


https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-m...613_164306.jpg

jagans 06-14-2013 10:06 AM

Is your ridge cap completely missing as it appears in photo 3? You will have to replace that.

1. Remove the shingles from the ridge back to 6 to 8 inches below the long seam in the plywood. Do this in the early morning when the sealing stip can be broken with a wonderbar, or drywall knife.

2. Cut out or remove the bad plywood. You are going to have to remove enough plywood so that your repair sits on three supports minimum, Basically 4 feet at least.

3. Install 2 x 4 blocking at both the lower joint, and at the top of the short piece of plywood. You can install the blocking "on the flat" and pre-attach simpson angle cleats to the blocking with drywall screws, then attach the verticle angle to the side of the top chord of the truss. this will make installing the blocking much easier than nailing, IMO. (Frankly, I would do this all along both sides, considering the thickness of your deck, as there is very little support there, and nothing to hold the fasteners from the ridge vent)

4. Nail decking to new blocking. 1-1/2 inch HD roofing nails are OK.

5. Replace felt with ASTM D226 Felt bibing down over shingles below to 1/2 inch above keys, and under shingles to the right and left 4 inches minimum. (You can also use ice dams here)

6. Re-install or Replace shingles, based on condition.

7. Install ridge cap.

Note: Your deck appears to be very thin, are there any stamps on the back of it that tells you the thickness? If not measure and post. The minimum deck that I specify for 24 inch on center support is 19/32 inch Fir. I know less is allowed, but codes are minimal, and min 15/32 inch is required by all shingle manufacturers for warranty.

Good Luck.

PS. I like the rising suns on the deck, but it sure as heck is not code over in my neck of the woods. If you have young kids you may want to put some vinyl coated 2 x 4 wire mesh or trellis on the inside of that.

Dave88LX 06-14-2013 10:22 AM

I'm sorry. Photo 3 (sawdust) is the pile in my attic floor directly below photo 4.

Thanks for taking the time to post that. I will look in my attic after work today and post up the stamps/thickness.

I always wondered when replacing the felt paper, what I was supposed to do with the sides. I have a couple spots on my garage I need to fix as well.

I have a ridge vent, so that will need to come up first, yes? Do I have to worry about the 'old holes' leaking from the nails/screws, or am I supposed to seal those, or re-use the exact same hole when re-attaching?

There are many angle cleats I found on Home Depot's site, would you mind linking specifically which ones I should be using? I imagine something ~3.5" x 2" x 2".

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/cata...gry=Search+All

I read elsewhere here to use 8d galv nails (2 1/2") for the sheathing, was that perhaps just local to someone else?

Thanks again.
- Dave

Dave88LX 06-14-2013 10:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jagans (Post 1201008)
PS. I like the rising suns on the deck, but it sure as heck is not code over in my neck of the woods. If you have young kids you may want to put some vinyl coated 2 x 4 wire mesh or trellis on the inside of that.

Thanks, it's funny that you mention that. They are pretty popular around here I've noticed. I had the same thought as you when my wife was pregnant. :thumbsup: Still need to color match everything.

http://dave88lx.com/gallery/albums/u...2/P1090008.JPG

http://dave88lx.com/gallery/albums/u...2/P1090165.JPG

jagans 06-14-2013 11:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dave88LX (Post 1201012)
I'm sorry. Photo 3 (sawdust) is the pile in my attic floor directly below photo 4.

Thanks for taking the time to post that. I will look in my attic after work today and post up the stamps/thickness.

I always wondered when replacing the felt paper, what I was supposed to do with the sides. I have a couple spots on my garage I need to fix as well.

I have a ridge vent, so that will need to come up first, yes? Do I have to worry about the 'old holes' leaking from the nails/screws, or am I supposed to seal those, or re-use the exact same hole when re-attaching?

There are many angle cleats I found on Home Depot's site, would you mind linking specifically which ones I should be using? I imagine something ~3.5" x 2" x 2".

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/cata...gry=Search+All

I read elsewhere here to use 8d galv nails (2 1/2") for the sheathing, was that perhaps just local to someone else?

Thanks again.
- Dave

The A-233z looks fine to me. Frankly I would just buy a box of 1-1/2 inch coated multipurpose scews and screw everything. You can put the blocking with the 3.5" dimension perpendicular to the deck or parallel. On the flat would be easier. 8d nails are 2.5 inches long, and if you nail the sheathing to the blocking in this configuration, the nails will protrude. Screwing will be better all the way around.

Dont even think about it guys. :censored:

Dave88LX 06-14-2013 01:17 PM

I have plenty of leftover coated screws from when I built my fence, so at least I have those. Makes sense now about the 8d nails.

Any ideas about that black wood with the sawdust under it?

jagans 06-14-2013 01:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dave88LX (Post 1201104)
I have plenty of leftover coated screws from when I built my fence, so at least I have those. Makes sense now about the 8d nails.

Any ideas about that black wood with the sawdust under it?

Probably swarf from when they re-roofed your house. I assume you are going to get rid of all the dry rot?

I have to tell you that your roof deck looks really thin to me. The reason that I would block it all is so you do not have deflection between rafters, which would allow wind blown rain to get under your ridge cap. Wear a hard hat in that attic. Roofing nails hurt your brain, that's why I nixed the 8d's :thumbsup:

Holy Crap! You fixed the deck since my last post ????? :jester:

jagans 06-14-2013 01:55 PM

Is your soffit vented? Also, what is the slope of your roof?

OldNBroken 06-14-2013 03:43 PM

Top of the truss on the right looks rotted away. If it is mush you may want to sister a 2x4 to that while you are up there.

Can you get a pic of the ridgecap. From here it looks like it could be that aluminum garbage.

Dave88LX 06-14-2013 04:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jagans (Post 1201132)
Is your soffit vented? Also, what is the slope of your roof?

It is vented, picture is attached. I will note that all the vent nails have some sort of coating applied over them, but they appear to either be pulling up or the vent lifting off.

I got up there and measured, my sheathing is 1/2" plywood, but there are no markings at all.

The slope I'd guess to be 4/12; I'd need to get up there with a level & tape. Easy to walk on. You can get an idea from this very old horribly landscaped picture from when we moved in.
http://dave88lx.com/gallery/albums/u...se_front_1.jpg


The damage was obvious from the outside. That gap in the middle is the broken sheathing/leak. What is right/wrong with the vent/ends? Everything else look good? Do I need to change anything?


https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-F...614_171313.jpg



https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-b...614_171319.jpg


Vent:
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-0...614_171443.jpg



https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-8...614_171356.jpg

Windows on Wash 06-14-2013 05:20 PM

That isn't 4:12.

3:12 if you are lucky by my eye.

Throw some more screws in the ridge vent and seal the heads with Vulkem or Geocel.

Dave88LX 06-14-2013 05:50 PM

It was just a guess, I really don't know. I know it's very walking-friendly. What would that determine?

OldNBroken 06-14-2013 06:35 PM

Pitch is fine. That is a 235 hud home I'd say mid 70's.

I thought that was that aluminum crap. That stuff is horrible. If it's in your budget I'd spring for some airvent II and replace that thing. It's a waste of money trying to reseal it. Well re-seal would not be the proper term since it was never sealed originally. Use the time and material you will spend trying to make that nice and put a real ridge vent on that will actually work and actually keep the weather out.

jagans 06-14-2013 08:04 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by OldNBroken (Post 1201303)
Pitch is fine. That is a 235 hud home I'd say mid 70's.

I thought that was that aluminum crap. That stuff is horrible. If it's in your budget I'd spring for some airvent II and replace that thing. It's a waste of money trying to reseal it. Well re-seal would not be the proper term since it was never sealed originally. Use the time and material you will spend trying to make that nice and put a real ridge vent on that will actually work and actually keep the weather out.


Yup Airvent II and run it out to the end, but end the cut about a foot in. Like this:

OldNBroken 06-15-2013 12:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jagans (Post 1201350)
Yup Airvent II and run it out to the end, but end the cut about a foot in. Like this:

I hate the look when people cheap out and end it at the wall


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