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Old 01-21-2008, 06:28 PM   #16
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leak in chimney water comes threw brick


there's a whitish stain on some of the bricks,,, i suspect its efflorescence (line salts) leaching out from the mortar,,, pressure wash/brush & wtr then another coat of the sealer (silicone siloxane) previously mention'd.

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Old 01-21-2008, 08:09 PM   #17
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leak in chimney water comes threw brick


it doesn`t look rebuilt,top 3 or so courses have built up dirt?,looks like he brushed (very little)added some pointing(minor),and painted the cement cap,----I would remove the shingles 3 ft. around the chimney and redo from there,definitely have a good mason out to repair the chimney properly.a good flashing job has the flashings interwoven with the shingles,and shouldn`t need any tar-sorry you got taken
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Old 01-22-2008, 07:09 AM   #18
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leak in chimney water comes threw brick


Ditto what I said before. Your mason didn't do much of anything that is correct, even with the masonary. To be blunt, you were ripped off.
Sue him for damages and that may help pay the roofer you have to hire now.

Your roof will need repair from the front of the chimney to the ridge. And the chimney may need repair. Depends on what he finds when he tears that masons??? metal off to do a proper job.
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Old 01-22-2008, 07:11 AM   #19
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leak in chimney water comes threw brick


And don't forget to remove all that caulk inside the house.
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Old 01-22-2008, 09:56 AM   #20
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leak in chimney water comes threw brick


Check If You Have A Consumer Protection Agency That Can Make Him Refund Your Money
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Old 01-22-2008, 05:40 PM   #21
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leak in chimney water comes threw brick


Hello

The whitish stain is from the sealer I put on not sure why it did it in that one area only I asked for the chimney sealer and was given the heavy duty sealer that was also for walks and walls that would protect against salt and deicer chemicals when I questioned it he said it was good for both? The chimney use to be out of a completely different brick, I saw the tear down being done so I know it is new but was done improperly. I guess that roofers will only do it if they replace it from the roof lines down because the current roof is 10 years old? It would cost more to take him to court then to have repairs or fixes done.
What is the best way to remove the caulk in the attic? Is the flashing on the sides of the chimney incorrect as well, he put the caulk over the flashing and roof after I first noticed a problem and now it would be easier to get a new guy in then trying to hash it out with him. I don't like being jerked around but I would rather take my lumps and move on at this point just to get the problem fixed before I have interior damage as well.
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Old 01-22-2008, 05:58 PM   #22
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leak in chimney water comes threw brick


Hey again Kdawg,
The flashing on the sides of the chimney actually looks pretty good,as long as there was step flashing at each shingle under his counter flashing(the lead you see on the sides of the chimney).If he meant for the counter flashing to act as a step flashing than it could be cut just above the roof line and step flashing should be slipped and nailed under each course of shingles.

I would be concerned in two areas;

1) The flashing at the rear of the chimney
2)The step in the roof line where it is difficult to tuck in a piece of flashing without pulling off the upper piece of facia.

Like Roofing god stated,ice and water is a good first defense against any seepage.Correctly done,it will act as a barrier for the perimeter of the chimney,followed by the correct flashing method.
The ice and water should be at room temp.or better to seal correctly at the overlaps.You can do this by having it inside before installation.

Any water/snow that hits the back of that chimney will stop and find any penetration it can.

And have that cap looked at again.

Last edited by oldfrt; 01-22-2008 at 06:53 PM.
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Old 01-22-2008, 08:09 PM   #23
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leak in chimney water comes threw brick


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Originally Posted by tinner666 View Post
Ditto what I said before. Your mason didn't do much of anything that is correct, even with the masonary. To be blunt, you were ripped off.
Sue him for damages and that may help pay the roofer you have to hire now.

Your roof will need repair from the front of the chimney to the ridge. And the chimney may need repair. Depends on what he finds when he tears that masons??? metal off to do a proper job.

Tinner is 100% right ,redo all the metal and shingles around the chimney
It`s cheaper to do all of it over than it is to pick and choose
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Old 01-23-2008, 11:49 AM   #24
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leak in chimney water comes threw brick


Actually,you can save quite a bit of money by keeping the flashing on the sides and bottom of chimney in place.Just make sure the step flashing is in place.No sense in disturbing those mortar joints around the existing flashing.
The back of the chimney is the last part to get done when the flashing is installed,so it looks like the mason cut corners here.This is the only section that will need new flashing.
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Old 01-23-2008, 12:09 PM   #25
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leak in chimney water comes threw brick


I disagree,and doubt you would spend less doing parts of the job ,rather than the whole thing,from your underneath photos ,you even appear to have wood rot,If you called me I would refuse to do part of it,instead of all
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Old 01-23-2008, 12:40 PM   #26
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Basically, everthing about your chimney is done incorrectly.

Mortar Joints are still not pointed correctly.

Concrete splash block, (not cap), does not overhang the sides which allaows all water to flow directly into the brick and the joints.

A small jump up to another roof level which does not have flashings done properly.

Not sure about this one, but it does not seem as if there is a cricket to divert the water from the gable roof side of the chimney to the main roof surface on the slightly lower roof.

The sheet metal flashings look as if somebody pounded them in with a mallet.

There is signs of significant moisture which has wicked into the decking underneath the chimney area.

Caulking done on the under side was totally useless.

Masonry is not water "Proof" anyways, so, once ths chimney gets re-done with tuck-pointing repairs and a properly affixed cement splash block, then the shingle and related flashing issues can be dealt with.

10 year old shingles may already be pretty brittle, so it may be a reasonable request for a roofing contractor to tear-off and re-do the entire roof section.

Chimney flashings consist of at least several seperate pieces of sheet metal.

Bottom side, which faces the eave edge, requires a base apron flashing, also sometimes called a Roof To Wall flashing.

Then both sides get the interply base step flashings installed as the courses of shingles get installed.

Then, on the top side, a cricket needs to be made to divert the down flowing water from directly running into the masonry obstacle without having anyplace to expell itself. This should get a sheet metal flashing installed directly on top of the wooden cricket and go up the wall of the top side of the chimney at least 4".

Then on all 4 sides, a sheet metal counter flashing needs to be installed. This can be mounted in a stepped pattern, or as a surface mounted or reglet fitting installation. These counter flashings then get attached to the 4 side walls of the brick chimney.

I would also add a chimney sealer product, such as one called chimney saver. This is an exterior applied brushable clear coating that encapsulates the exterior of the masonry structure. This needs to be re-applied every 3-5 years or so, to keep the bricks and mortar joints water-proof.

Ed

Last edited by Ed the Roofer; 01-23-2008 at 01:05 PM.
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Old 01-23-2008, 12:45 PM   #27
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leak in chimney water comes threw brick


can't believe how much i'm learning,,, have to do my own in atl, ga,,, THANKS VERY MUCH, ALL ! ! !,,, flashing, step flashing, & counterflashing were still a slight mystery to me.

1 thing more,,, the ' chimney sealer ',,, we use prosoco's silicone siloxane,,, any other suggestions ?

thanks, buds !
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Old 01-23-2008, 12:49 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by the roofing god View Post
I disagree,and doubt you would spend less doing parts of the job ,rather than the whole thing,from your underneath photos ,you even appear to have wood rot,If you called me I would refuse to do part of it,instead of all

Just amuse me for a minute here,

Why would you pull out the counter flashing that seems to be set in the mortar joints properly(on the sides and bottom of the chimney)and then cut into the brick with a diamond blade (adding another penetration in the chimney)to install new flashing?
That lead counter flashing could be easily cut(just above the roof line),pulled up to install the step flashing(if it isn't there) re-shingled (to get rid of the tarred shingles)and pushed back in place.
I do not see the point of removing that flashing.

[quote=the roofing god;91211]I disagree,and doubt you would spend less doing parts of the job

Time is money.not to mention the purchase of new flashing.
My intention was to save the HO some$,yours seems to be an ego thing.
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Old 01-23-2008, 01:09 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by so-elitecrete View Post
can't believe how much i'm learning,,, have to do my own in atl, ga,,, THANKS VERY MUCH, ALL ! ! !,,, flashing, step flashing, & counterflashing were still a slight mystery to me.

1 thing more,,, the ' chimney sealer ',,, we use prosoco's silicone siloxane,,, any other suggestions ?

thanks, buds !
Order the product catalog from Copperfield Chimney supplies and you will see plenty of alternatives.

Ed

P.S. The term "Flashing" is used so indiscriminantly by so many contractors who either do not know the proper terminology, or they don't care and prefer to confuse the home owner, and that it is a continual battle when comparing bids.

But the other contractor is doing flashings. Right?

NO. Not unless they spell out all of the indivdual steps and required materials.

Just slapping roofing cement on top of the existing embedded counter flashings on the chimney in the previous photo could technically be considered as applying a counter flashing to it.
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Old 01-23-2008, 05:18 PM   #30
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Hello

This was not a new problem and the pictures showing the roof from the inside was old damage prior to the roof being re-shingled the first time ten years ago. Now the water looks to be coming from the mortar joints in the cinder block not directly from the old roof leaks. So I guess I need to get a roofer over to get a price on striping the old shingles off taking off any plywood with that is damaged and get proper flashing, cricket on the lower roof side and fix the cap? since we have never had a problem with the high side roof (interior wall) does that need to be replaced as well to make sure it is not coming from that side over?

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