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Old 03-16-2011, 05:33 AM   #16
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joining sheathing panels on roof


It's just a small shed, you could just add a rafter at the vertical seams and also add a stud since your wall sheathing isn’t breaking on a stud either.

It’s either that or tear it off and do it right.

Some of the best lessons I’ve learned in building have come from “pulling nails”.

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Old 03-16-2011, 01:56 PM   #17
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If you were paying for it, would you want it done right?

Do you do your day job correctly or is it always just "good enough"?

Do whatever you think is easiest. Why would you ask if blocking would be a problem since it's "just a shed"?

I'll propose a ban if you say 'nuclear' or 'dude' again! Ha j/k
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Old 03-16-2011, 02:41 PM   #18
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joining sheathing panels on roof


Regardless of How or even If you would be able to reinforce the underside of the mis-installed sheathing, how would you secure the sheathing to the newly installed rafters or whatever else you may be considering?

Sooner, rather than later, the edges of the decking will puncture through the surface shingles creating a future mess to once again contend with.

My advice would to not make an incorrectly installed project even more of a problem than you already are contending with and rip it all off and do it again properly.

Please review the deck sheathing specifications from the American Plywood Association, which now currently goes by the name of Engineered Wood Products Association, so that you can visualize the correct installation process.

Ed
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Old 03-16-2011, 03:58 PM   #19
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joining sheathing panels on roof


the lines on the rough side of the OSB are layout lines marked at 16" and 24 " so you can see your rafter lines up and you can make sure your nailing the rafter thats why the rough side goes out and you get better traction too
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Old 03-16-2011, 04:17 PM   #20
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The waxed side with the inked span rating (label) goes toward the room so the Inspector can see the material rating for the application. It is waxed for the press release when pressure-gluing the chips together at the possessing plant. The lines are for your benefit when nailing. Be sure to leave the required 1/8" gap between edges and ends as per directions with OSB; http://osbguide.tecotested.com/pdfs/en/el812.pdf

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Old 03-16-2011, 06:05 PM   #21
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Since nobody including myself has mentioned it yet, I will now.
The OSB has to be staggered over 2 more rafters for it's shear strength. Even if you managed to add a rafter, stud, and crossbrace to the mess, the building 'moves' as it ages, for wont of another word.
If all the sheathing meets at the same point in the building, all the nails in the world won't keep it together. Wood moves. It's not stable like you think it is. Nor is the world. Wind will accelerate the issue too.

Pop the sheathing off, safely, and reinstall it correctly. Please.

Last edited by tinner666; 03-16-2011 at 09:22 PM. Reason: typo
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Old 03-16-2011, 09:10 PM   #22
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joining sheathing panels on roof


what do you mean by "staggering" ? is it the zigzag position on horizontal panels relative to the row above/below, as to avoid + joints where 4 panels meet ?
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Old 03-16-2011, 09:16 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by amakarevic View Post
what do you mean by "staggering" ? is it the zigzag position on horizontal panels relative to the row above/below, as to avoid + joints where 4 panels meet ?
Yes. The first panel can be nominally 96" x 48". Then, nominally the second course above it would be 48" x 48".

This puts the joints 48" apart and gives the structure it's strength. THat would be a 3 joistrafter stagger when the studs are set at 16" OC. 2 stud stagger when set at 24" oc.
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Old 03-16-2011, 09:21 PM   #24
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To get proper spacing of studs, once the floor is down, I'd pull the tape from an outer edge, anda t every 'Red' 16" mark, I'd deedcut 3/4" and mark the edge of the stud, and put an X at the 16" spot. Doing this guaranteed that a full 8' sheet would hit the center of a stud. Same for the 48" sheet.
When all the wall, floor and roof measurements were done this way, AND laid out so the dimensions of the building are divisible by 4', there is no scrap. ( Or at least so little as to not make a difference.)
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Old 03-16-2011, 09:26 PM   #25
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joining sheathing panels on roof


do you think after i pull out so many ring shank nails, the rafters will be weakened?
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Old 03-17-2011, 05:18 AM   #26
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do you think after i pull out so many ring shank nails, the rafters will be weakened?
You should be OK. It's new wood, not old dry wood.
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Old 03-17-2011, 08:36 AM   #27
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Amakarevic, the guys have given you great advice, complete with sketches, so I am not going to elaborate, except to say that I concur fully with removing the roof sheathing, and installing it properly. If you don't have one, buy a cat's paw to get the nail heads above the surface, then use a flat bar (often referred to as wonder bars), along with a scrap of wood for a fulcrum, to pull the nails out.

Now, to expand just a bit, I belive that I saw another thread in which you said that you were going to side this shed with cedar shakes, in which case, particularly with shakes, although applicable to other types of siding as well, you will have the same problems, i.e. premature failure of the siding, as you would with shingles on the roof, unless you take similar action with your wall sheathing. Also, your end wall sheathing lends significant support to your gable ends, when installed properly, and with it not meeting on studs, could contribute to a structural failure of the roof.

Lastly, you made another post regarding running electrical to a shed, which I assume is this one. If not already, sooner or later, an inspection is probably going to be requirred. So, whether or not you have pulled a permit for this shed, I will also point out, and I may be wrong, as it is "just a shed", that I believe you need a double top plate on your walls. There may be other issues as well, such as anchors between the walls and foundation, headers, etc., but I cannot see those in these pictures.

So, obviously up to you, but before going too far, you may very well want to consider talking with your local building department, to see what is required, because although it would be a pain to install a second plate at this time, it would certainly be better than seeing it condemned at a later date. And, even if you do have a permit, you may want to talk with them before continuing. In my jurisdiction, as an example, the building department will issue a permit for a shed without me submitting drawings, but they do so on the premise that basic construction techniques will be followed, and if I were to have that shed inspected, I am quite certain that it would not pass.

Just some friendly advice, opinion, or whatever.
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Old 03-17-2011, 12:33 PM   #28
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joining sheathing panels on roof


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I believe you need a double top plate on your walls.
you mean two tiers of sheathing ?
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Old 03-17-2011, 03:28 PM   #29
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joining sheathing panels on roof


No; am referring to the horizontal 2x4's on top of the studs.

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