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Old 02-24-2012, 06:50 AM   #16
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Intersecting gambrel roofs


What is so difficult about this? It's like a mansard style roof. Do the lower portion first, Use step flashing, roof.
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Old 02-24-2012, 08:14 AM   #17
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Intersecting gambrel roofs


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What is so difficult about this? It's like a mansard style roof. Do the lower portion first, Use step flashing, roof.
It isn't difficult in this capacity as most recently pictured. What I think a couple of people were commenting on was the first picture before the OP properly joined the two structures together.
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Old 02-24-2012, 08:24 AM   #18
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Intersecting gambrel roofs


I would have removed that outside corner on the siding and all the siding on the left side of that window before the new wall went up. Reason being the siding could have been woven in so it would look like it was all built at the same time not two differant buildings, and the tyvek would have covered over the seam between the buildings.
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Old 02-24-2012, 08:48 AM   #19
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I would have removed that outside corner on the siding and all the siding on the left side of that window before the new wall went up. Reason being the siding could have been woven in so it would look like it was all built at the same time not two differant buildings, and the tyvek would have covered over the seam between the buildings.




I am not busting your chops Joe but anytime I can find a good spot for this South Park character...I think it is hilarious.
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Old 02-24-2012, 09:22 AM   #20
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Intersecting gambrel roofs


Thanks all, I will use the step flashing at the roof intersections and that should't be that difficult. The old shed's roof was in pretty bad condition with several leaks along the roof break. I'm replacing the whole top part of that roof and raise the pitch in the process. There was no paper under the shingles and the top plywood had several sags in it to collect water.

I'm replacing the siding on the existing shed so it all will match the house siding.

I have seen references to using flashing, possible drip edge, at the roof breaks. The old shed just had the shingles bend over the break and that started failing first. Can somebody point me to some details about using a drip edge on the break?
I'm replacing the siding on the existing shed so it all will match the house siding.

Today we are expecting bad weather with high wind, I hope my tarps don't blow away.

Egbert
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Old 02-24-2012, 10:19 AM   #21
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Intersecting gambrel roofs


I use drip cap where that break in the roof line is everytime I have to deal with that style roof. I strip the roof install the tar paper over the whole roof, bending it over that rip, install all the shingles on the two lower sides, making sure to apply a dab of roofing tar over the last nail heads, then install the drip cap, apply Storm and Ice shield so it lays over the drip cap but leave about 1/2" of the drip cap showing on just the top part of the roof.
Ever store bought shed I've worked on had no paper, less then 1/2 OSB sheathing, no H clips between the trusses, and the shingles are stapled on not nailed.
Most had almost no over hang of the shingles and no drip cap which will cause the edges of the roof to rot out.
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Old 02-24-2012, 10:24 AM   #22
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Intersecting gambrel roofs


I got ya windows, ha ha.
How many times have we all seen DIY additions with that seam where the new and old are connected. Always been a pet peave of mine when it's so simple to do it right and have it look better.
Or when they decide to enclose a porch and leave the slab sticking out instead of building the walls so the sheathing runs past the slab so water will not get under the walls.
Ok done ranting. lol
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Old 02-24-2012, 08:26 PM   #23
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Intersecting gambrel roofs


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I use drip cap where that break in the roof line is everytime I have to deal with that style roof. I strip the roof install the tar paper over the whole roof, bending it over that rip, install all the shingles on the two lower sides, making sure to apply a dab of roofing tar over the last nail heads, then install the drip cap, apply Storm and Ice shield so it lays over the drip cap but leave about 1/2" of the drip cap showing on just the top part of the roof.
Ever store bought shed I've worked on had no paper, less then 1/2 OSB sheathing, no H clips between the trusses, and the shingles are stapled on not nailed.
Most had almost no over hang of the shingles and no drip cap which will cause the edges of the roof to rot out.
Thanks for the details on the break. The original shed roof is pretty crappy, mainly because to top plywood didn't lap over the plywood of the lower part of the roof and was sagging there creating leaks.

Egbert
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