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Old 06-23-2013, 10:17 AM   #1
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ice and water shield


Does ice and water shield need to be adhered directly to the roof sheathing or can it go over the felt?

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Old 06-23-2013, 10:22 AM   #2
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It's supposed to be adhered to the wood deck. Then, in 10 years of so when the new 'lifetime' shingles need to be replaced, you also replace the wood even though they say you can add more layers of the stuff.

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Old 06-23-2013, 10:41 AM   #3
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It's supposed to be adhered to the wood deck. Then, in 10 years of so when the new 'lifetime' shingles need to be replaced, you also replace the wood even though they say you can add more layers of the stuff.


What...you don't think they will last a lifetime??
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Old 06-23-2013, 10:49 AM   #4
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Especially not after working on two this week installed around 2003.
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Old 06-23-2013, 12:14 PM   #5
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It's supposed to be adhered to the wood deck. Then, in 10 years of so when the new 'lifetime' shingles need to be replaced, you also replace the wood even though they say you can add more layers of the stuff.
So for using ice and water as a flashing back up for a dormer I should attach it to directly to the sheathing?
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Old 06-23-2013, 12:34 PM   #6
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That's what they say on the package.
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Old 06-23-2013, 12:46 PM   #7
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BTW, keep in mind that if it isn't 100% tight as possible and creased as neatly as possible, the flashing won't fit tightly to each other, or the wall either causing gaps that WILL rely on the I&W to keep water out.
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Old 06-23-2013, 02:21 PM   #8
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Definately adheared to the sheathing.

It is a barrier, and will not breathe. If moisture gets under it, you will rot your sheathing. And it should be well adheared and neatly laid.
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Old 06-23-2013, 08:11 PM   #9
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I used Tamko moisture guard over my entire roof, installed directly to the plywood since it has a fly paper like super sticky glue backing. I don't think you need felt anyway. The black tar paper stuff is mostly to protect things while working in case there's a rain event, as can be imagined that paper tears super easy and nails just put holes in it.
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Old 06-23-2013, 08:15 PM   #10
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Definately adheared to the sheathing.

It is a barrier, and will not breathe. If moisture gets under it, you will rot your sheathing. And it should be well adheared and neatly laid.
That's what I figured to and some roofer I spoke to said to run it up the dormer walls, which I understand, then have it overlap the felt on the roof deck. Also, when you install a typical square top roof vent and you cut a hole in the roof to install you fasten it directly to the sheathing to, right? I was told to put some sealant on the bottom of the vent.
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Old 06-24-2013, 06:41 AM   #11
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Nascar likes it so it can't be that bad.

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Old 06-24-2013, 08:01 AM   #12
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DO NOT put sealant at the bottom of the vent! Here's a pic of one done that way. It split the shingles.

If you're in hurricane country, you can put abead of sealant around the lower 2/3 of the hole when you set the vent. Pass the hole with the top of a shingle before the vent goes on.

http://www.albertsroofing.com/Power%...stallation.htm
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Old 06-24-2013, 09:00 AM   #13
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DO NOT put sealant at the bottom of the vent! Here's a pic of one done that way. It split the shingles.

If you're in hurricane country, you can put abead of sealant around the lower 2/3 of the hole when you set the vent. Pass the hole with the top of a shingle before the vent goes on.

http://www.albertsroofing.com/Power%...stallation.htm
The vent goes directly over the roof sheathing, right?
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Old 06-24-2013, 12:10 PM   #14
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When you install the flashing for the dormer you overlap the housewrap over the step flashing, correct? Do you tape the housewrap or leave open at bottom so as to not trap water if it gets behind? When I side the dormer the j channel is going to run along the flashing on the wall side so is it ok for the J channel to be nailed right over the step flashing?
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Old 06-24-2013, 04:12 PM   #15
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The vent goes directly over the roof sheathing, right?
Only if you want it to leak.

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