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Old 06-17-2009, 05:52 PM   #16
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I need help from an honest to god roofer. Ed?


Thanks Frankie. I am hoping to make a list of all the things that should be changed from this thread and then talk it over with him. I would really like to see a picture of what you have installed now. Or if Ed can find his, that would be something I could push for the installation of.

The main transition between the porch and house is what I'm most concerned about at the moment....I am scared of what's under there.

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Old 06-18-2009, 04:48 PM   #17
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gutter apron
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Old 06-18-2009, 04:57 PM   #18
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The long side goes on the roof, correct?
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Old 06-18-2009, 05:06 PM   #19
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Yes, and the back of the gutter slides up behind the shorter side so the water must go into the gutter.
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Old 06-18-2009, 05:11 PM   #20
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Ah ok, so your gutter hangers are screwed into the fascia and underneath this piece, not through it. So if both need to be replaced they can be pulled from underneath and new stuff can be shoved under?
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Old 06-18-2009, 05:16 PM   #21
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Is this a good pic of proper installation?
Except I assume the Ice & water shield goes over this?
This takes the place of drip edge?


Last edited by Scuba_Dave; 06-18-2009 at 07:35 PM. Reason: oops - over not under
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Old 06-18-2009, 05:21 PM   #22
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It doesn't look like you'd be able to get at the gutter hanger with that install. Our porch is about 55 feet long, and it starts high in the center and gets lower toward each end so the water drains. If it started just at the center hanger, I wonder if there would still be enough of it to go inside the gutter when it reached the end. Although I did see some flashing type stuff that came in a roll -- said you could cut what you needed and tuck it behind the gutter apron and into the gutter to span that gap if there was one...
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Old 06-18-2009, 06:01 PM   #23
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I&W goes over the drip edge or gutter flashing.

Some put the I&W under the edging, but it should go into the gutter or at least over the edge and stuck to the fascia. I don't like that way because then the fascias cannot be replaced without disrupting the whole thing by cutting the I&W.
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Old 06-18-2009, 07:36 PM   #24
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Oops - I meant over the drip edge, that's why I was thinking the pic was not exactly correct

Over at the gutter, under along the sides
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Old 06-19-2009, 12:08 AM   #25
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I need help from an honest to god roofer. Ed?


Guuter Apron Style Profile and Rake Edge O.D.E., Overhanging Drip Edge Profile Styles and installation photos.

Ed

The photos in this post are just of the G.A., Gutter Apron Style Drip Edge Metal.
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Old 06-19-2009, 12:13 AM   #26
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I need help from an honest to god roofer. Ed?


The photos in this post will be of the O.D.E., Overhanging Drip Edge Style sheet metal.

Ed

The first 2 photos are just the profile of the metal. The 3rd photo is showing how I overlap the top portion, "Shingle Fashion" so that the higher section lays on top of the lower section, but also how I inter-lock the sheet metal so that when viewing the rake edge of the home from the ground, no seam is visible, because I place the side edge of the fascia exposed portion of the lower section of ODE over the top of the higher piece of ODE.
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Old 06-19-2009, 12:23 AM   #27
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I need help from an honest to god roofer. Ed?


Now, for the final photos, which show how overlapping the fascia portion of the ODE seam in a reverse direction allows a clean aesthetic view from the ground all of the way up to the peak of the roof, without it looking as if there are any seams in the metal. The first photo is about a 30 foot rake edge and the 2nd photos is about 12-14 feet long.

The third photo admittedly could have had a cleaner and more plumb cut made with the tin snips to it, for the ODE that makes the transition over the peak of the roof to both sides.

Realize though, that from the ground, that slight faux pas is not noticeable and was not discovered by me until I was uploading the photos taken from a zoomed in perspective with my camera.

Ed
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Old 06-19-2009, 02:58 AM   #28
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We usually use 5" straight 26 gauge with a 1/2" drip extended over the gutter by 1 1/2".
This holds up the ice & water & shingles but allows access to the gutter hangers.
In places like Whistler there is no gutters as the 10 ft of snow would rip them off. The metal extended to the end of the shingles keeps the snow falling from the upper roofs from destroying the overhanging shingles
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Old 06-21-2009, 10:49 PM   #29
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Ed, in the last two pictures, why is there a gap between the fascia and the drip edge? If I had that on my house, I'd have a wasp infestation in 3 days.
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Old 06-21-2009, 11:44 PM   #30
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I have ventilated houses with a gap between flashings & fascia on cedar/asphalt conversions, but usually the gap is not that wide & we do screen them.
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