how would/should they do this ?

Fix'n it · 11-04-2012, 08:53 AM

here are a couple pics.

dougger222 · 11-04-2012, 09:00 AM

For a one layer tear off and redeck I'd be over $10K!!!

Add in trusses and everything else and at least triple that amount.

We've roofed a roof over a roof once. When you took the vents off you could look down and see another complete roof. The homeowner had one of the first homes built in the developement and went with a 4/12. All of the other houses in the area were 8/12-12/12's. To "fit in" went with a 7/12.

Fix'n it · 11-04-2012, 09:03 AM

yeah, i could help. but it would just be cleanup stuff. i would want to save a bunch of the wood for burning.

the deck is 1x6's.

yes, i do know the mountain of stuff there would be.

the reason for wanting it replaced or fixed = it is bowing/sagging down. it is only non dimensional 2x4's 16"oc. and there is no, what is it called, ridge beam ? and idk just how it is going to handle snow loads. the attic was not well insulated, so snow probably just melted off pretty quick. but now that i have the place insulated pretty well, i am figuring that the snow is not going to melt off = lots of weight for a lot longed that it was used too in the past. hey, maybe the snow will cave it in and the insurance will cover it .

sistering is a real possibility.

Fix'n it · 11-04-2012, 09:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dougger222

For a one layer tear off and redeck I'd be over $10K!!!

sounds about right. what would you charge to sister to what is already there ?

robertcdf · 11-04-2012, 12:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hates my roof

15K? Sounds possible to me - price out the material and see what that leaves for labor. Be the GM and divide the job up into tearoff, structure build, & roofing. Tearoff is high labor but low skill - this may be the best portion for owner participation but dont underestimate the amount of effort required. Wanna know a secret? Plenty of very experienced roofers hate working with rafters - they avoid structural work whenever possible and when they have to do it - it may not be done right. Some roofers are willing and qualified to do structural - you dont any suprises here. Another, perhaps better, option is to hire a carpenter for the structure build and leave only the shingling to the roofer. If there was a way to tarp up/ waterproof the building after the tearoff, you would gain alot of extra time to coordinate it all.

This kind of advice is hilarious... Tearoff without screwing everything else up around you is HIGH skill in addition to high labor. Yea, just hire dudes here and there to help you, surly they'll answer the phone if a problem develops down the road... How do you know these guys know what they're doing? I've worked with tons of framers that can't do a lick of framing without a lead man around showing/teaching/telling them what to do next.

Save yourself money in the long run and hire a PROFESSIONAL company with a mile long list of references and then follow up with those references.

Roofmaster417 · 11-04-2012, 01:55 PM

@ $15,000.00 I don't think there is room for a professional installation.You will eat up that 15K really quick with demo,disposal,permits etc.Then subtract materials also add about 8% damage and waste factor that 15K isn't a realistic budget figure to proceed with.Not to mention "Hidden" factors better called worst case scenarios and problems unforseen.

I am afraid if you proceed with the project with a $15K budget you might find yourself 1/3 into the project,,broke with an exposed interior with blue tarps flapping in the winter breeze with your property destroyed by heavy debris,roll off dumpsters,foot traffic and ruts.Just sayin

IMHPO you should always have access to at least double if not triple the project budget as an insurance policy (so to speak) to guaranty project completion.

If your worried about the sunken areas that is a very easy problem to correct for a fraction of the overall projected cost.

I would take that $15,000 and upgrade the siding to some Hardi and a nice little deck.That way you can sit on your deck sucking suds checking out your new siding patting yourself on the back because you feel you made a wise choice by not getting in over your head with a limited budget.

After all this is construction and very few projects of this magnitude ever come in under budget.

robertcdf · 11-04-2012, 05:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Roofmaster417

@ $15,000.00 I don't think there is room for a professional installation.You will eat up that 15K really quick with demo,disposal,permits etc.Then subtract materials also add about 8% damage and waste factor that 15K isn't a realistic budget figure to proceed with.Not to mention "Hidden" factors better called worst case scenarios and problems unforseen.

I am afraid if you proceed with the project with a $15K budget you might find yourself 1/3 into the project,,broke with an exposed interior with blue tarps flapping in the winter breeze with your property destroyed by heavy debris,roll off dumpsters,foot traffic and ruts.Just sayin

IMHPO you should always have access to at least double if not triple the project budget as an insurance policy (so to speak) to guaranty project completion.

If your worried about the sunken areas that is a very easy problem to correct for a fraction of the overall projected cost.

I would take that $15,000 and upgrade the siding to some Hardi and a nice little deck.That way you can sit on your deck sucking suds checking out your new siding patting yourself on the back because you feel you made a wise choice by not getting in over your head with a limited budget.

After all this is construction and very few projects of this magnitude ever come in under budget.

15k don't go anywhere on a deck either, the deck in my avatar is over $35,000.

Some repairs may be able to be completed from the attic depending upon what exactly is going on there. Probably should talk to a pro.

Fix'n it · 11-04-2012, 08:54 PM

ok, fella's. please tell me how the sagging would be "fixed" ? actually, i firmly believe, from experience with trying to straighten sagging 2x4 ceiling joists, that they can not be straightened, with "reasonable" force. i sistered 2x6's to those ceiling joists to "straighten" the ceiling, and it worked out awesome.

i am not so much worried about straightening the roof. i am worried about it falling down or whatever.

Fix'n it · 11-04-2012, 08:55 PM

oh

i am going to do siding and a nice deck. both for nowhere near 15g's

shedbuilder · 11-04-2012, 09:13 PM

I agree with alot of the folks on here... sister the joists (dont just throw a few gun nails in and call it good) by adhering and screwing 3" deck screws every 6 to 8 inches in a staggered pattern. I would also do some research on collar ties or any other type of bracing that would increase your live load calcs.

Fix'n it · 11-04-2012, 09:39 PM

there are collar ties.

mae-ling · 11-05-2012, 12:13 AM

Hard to tell someone else how to do it as there are many many many decisions that require experience and need to be made on the fly as you are doing it.

Basically strip off one section of shingles. Remove the sheeting (1x's or whatever), cut new 2x6 rafter to fit beside the old 2x4 rafters. Basically make an exact copy of the rafter just out of 2x6. May need to temporary remove collar ties, Make sure to reinstall or install new ones.
Re-sheet and re-shingle, May need to have next section/side done at same time for shingles to overlap in valleys.
Move on to next section.

Hates my roof · 11-05-2012, 08:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by robertcdf

This kind of advice is hilarious... Tearoff without screwing everything else up around you is HIGH skill in addition to high labor. Yea, just hire dudes here and there to help you, surly they'll answer the phone if a problem develops down the road... How do you know these guys know what they're doing? I've worked with tons of framers that can't do a lick of framing without a lead man around showing/teaching/telling them what to do next.

Save yourself money in the long run and hire a PROFESSIONAL company with a mile long list of references and then follow up with those references.

I went that route, Robert, and it ended up horribly. I had, not just a factory certified, but an "elite factory certified" roofer with commercial experience utterly destroy my roof and it happened for one main reason - the roofer didnt like touching the structure at all. I had many bowed rafters and instead of replacing/sistering them, this professional roofer placed chunks of OSB between the bowed part of the rafter and the deck knowing that it wouldnt be obvious unless the ceiling was removed. (flat roof) When I discovered this later, I complained to this professional roofer and all they said was that it must have been me who placed those OSB strips there because they simply were not capable of such blatant incompetence. As for tearoff needing skill - I'll admit there are a variety of situations where tearoff could get tricky and cause accidental damage. Not just any homeowner should attempt it, you need to be at the least a pretty good handyman. Framers needing lead men? You mean its not the same way with professional roofers? Most all roofing crews have just a very few lead guys who know (you hope) what they are doing - all the rest are ignorant muscle fresh off the street. References? Yeah, a long glowing list looks good but it is often not that cut-n-dried. They might only mention the job references that went well. The jobs that didnt go so well don't get mentioned in that refernce list. Here's a suggestion, ask for job references where there was a complaint. Now those are the kind of references that can be very illuminating. How did that roofer handle the complaint?

mae-ling · 11-05-2012, 10:06 AM

This is more of a carpentry job then a roofing job.
Carpenters deal with the structure, and some will shingle also. Roofers deal only with the shingles.

robertcdf · 11-05-2012, 11:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hates my roof

I went that route, Robert, and it ended up horribly. I had, not just a factory certified, but an "elite factory certified" roofer with commercial experience utterly destroy my roof and it happened for one main reason - the roofer didnt like touching the structure at all. I had many bowed rafters and instead of replacing/sistering them, this professional roofer placed chunks of OSB between the bowed part of the rafter and the deck knowing that it wouldnt be obvious unless the ceiling was removed. (flat roof) When I discovered this later, I complained to this professional roofer and all they said was that it must have been me who placed those OSB strips there because they simply were not capable of such blatant incompetence. As for tearoff needing skill - I'll admit there are a variety of situations where tearoff could get tricky and cause accidental damage. Not just any homeowner should attempt it, you need to be at the least a pretty good handyman. Framers needing lead men? You mean its not the same way with professional roofers? Most all roofing crews have just a very few lead guys who know (you hope) what they are doing - all the rest are ignorant muscle fresh off the street. References? Yeah, a long glowing list looks good but it is often not that cut-n-dried. They might only mention the job references that went well. The jobs that didnt go so well don't get mentioned in that refernce list. Here's a suggestion, ask for job references where there was a complaint. Now those are the kind of references that can be very illuminating. How did that roofer handle the complaint?

Sorry that you made a mistake in hiring a roofing contractor to do STRUCTURAL work, I would never DREAM of calling a roofing contractor for anything other than dry in and shingle install (asphalt, tile, metal, etc).

You called the wrong kind of contractor for your project. References work amazingly well, IF you follow up and call them, visit the site, etc. If all he provides are projects that are not ANYTHING like what you have then you should move on to someone who has completed a project similar to yours...