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-   -   How to install a flash (for a vent pipe ) properly (http://www.diychatroom.com/f9/how-install-flash-vent-pipe-properly-90581/)

Gnfanatic 12-27-2010 09:34 PM

How to install a flash (for a vent pipe ) properly
 
Hey guys. This week I am going to be cutting a 4.5 inch hole in my roof and install a concentric vent for the boiler. I bought the 3-4 inch boot flash (metal) for the roof. Here is the question. I know the TOP of the flash goes UNDER the roof shingles. But what about the sides of the flash??? I was told it lays on top of the tiles but then wont water go right under it and cause a leak?? I bought a tube of black jack as well.

thanks!!

OldNBroken 12-28-2010 08:05 AM

Can't give much information without knowing what type of roof and flashing you have.

Michael Thomas 12-28-2010 08:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gnfanatic (Post 557798)
Hey guys. This week I am going to be cutting a 4.5 inch hole in my roof and install a concentric vent for the boiler. I bought the 3-4 inch boot flash (metal) for the roof. Here is the question. I know the TOP of the flash goes UNDER the roof shingles. But what about the sides of the flash??? I was told it lays on top of the tiles but then wont water go right under it and cause a leak??

Is this a shingle roof, or a tile roof?

Gnfanatic 12-28-2010 08:32 AM

sorry about that guys, I bought this.......

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...atalogId=10053



and 2 layers of shingles on the roof.

tinner666 12-28-2010 09:30 AM

1/2 over the shingles, 1/2 under like this larger one. http://www.albertsroofing.com/Power%...stallation.htm

Take that one back to HD and get a black ABS boot. When the rubber top breaks in 4-5 years, the ABS one is much easier to fix. Just cut the flange off and slide the new top over the broken one.
When the top goes south on that aluminum one, water will pour in.

tinner666 12-28-2010 09:31 AM

Oh. what are you going to do with the caulk? Take it back too.

Slyfox 12-28-2010 09:32 AM

The bottom of the flashing should be over the shingles.
(should cover self sealer/nail line of shingles)
The sides will be partially covered, at least 2/3'rds.
The top will be completely covered.

You do not need to place the flashing under both layers of shingles,
just under the top layer.

When/if you run a bead of your black jack roof cement only do it on the top and sides, not the across the bottom.
Your roof cement should not be exposed either, run the bead on top of the flashing and under the shingles.

Gnfanatic 12-28-2010 09:47 AM

Thanks Sly, I appreciate the help. It going to be tricky getting the sides over it without damaging anything . First I need to take 12 inchs of snow off the roof! such fun!

Gnfanatic 12-29-2010 04:40 PM

Guys,I returned the metal one and got the ABS piece. I was planning to do it today but time was running out and will do it tomorrow morning. I have a question for you guys. I was planning to use a 4 1/2 inch hole saw to drill the hole in the roof but I cannot make is straight becasue the drill bit is not long enough. Should I get a longer drill bit for a guide OR is there a diff way to do this???


thanks!!

tinner666 12-29-2010 08:04 PM

Depending on the pipe size, and the roof slope (ie-3" pipe, 4/12 slope might be 4" x 5-1/2" hole), a hole saw seldom does it completely. We use 'Tiger-saws'/ sawzalls. A keyhole saw will also work.
After using the holesaw, remove any shingles necesary before using a keyole saw.. It will dull in a hurry cutting shingles or felt!

jimpick 12-29-2010 10:34 PM

I don't believe you have been given good advice.

First off I would go with the aluminum flashing. The plastic flashing has a tendancy to buckle up on the bottom side in time do to the heat of the roof. This can lead to insects or bats getting into your attic. The second is you shovel your roof off, I have replaced many plastic flashing's that have cracked in the cold because they were hit by a shovel. Out of the about 800 roofs I have worked on almost all of the flashing repairs I have done have been because of the plastic boot rubber prematurely failing. If you go with a metal flashing go with aluminum as the galvanized rust and will leave streaks on your roof, the aluminum will not.

The next problem is with the statement of not putting roof cement under your flashing. According to the Ceertainteeds Master Shingle Applicators Manual this statement is incorrect. The reason that cement is put under the flashing is because of wind driven rain or snow. I have seen where wind driven rain had destroyed 4 room of drywall after hurricane Katrina. In addition this cement is part of the specification set for by ARMA (American Roofing Manufacturing Association).

The best way to install this flashing is as follows.

1. Remove the shingles above and beside the vent hole.
2 Place the flashing on your pipe and mark were the rubber stops. Then pull it up and off the pipe.
3. Take some clear caulk and run a ring around the pipe were you made the mark for the rubber.
4. Place cement on the bottom side of the flashing staying back .75-1 inch from the edge and slide it back down the pipe. This should seal the rubber gasket to the pipe and the roof deck. then nail the flashing to the roof deck.
5. Now cut the shingles to the flashing but keep a gap of about 3/8-1/2 inch from where the flashing rises off the deck. By keeping a gap here on the sides and top the water will flow faster off the flashing. If water sets here it can cause the shingle to deteriorate faster, or wick under the shingles.
6. Once the shingle is cut to size put cement on the bottom of the shingle where it makes contact with the flashing and nail it down. This cement will also keep water from wicking under the shingle. In addition it will help keep the shingle from blowing off in high wind.

If you are damaging the seal down strip or not using new shingle make sure you seal the shingle where this strip is missing or damaged.

Sorry this is long, hope it helps.

Slyfox 12-30-2010 05:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jimpick (Post 558992)
I don't believe you have been given good advice.

First off I would go with the aluminum flashing. The plastic flashing has a tendancy to buckle up on the bottom side in time do to the heat of the roof. This can lead to insects or bats getting into your attic. The second is you shovel your roof off, I have replaced many plastic flashing's that have cracked in the cold because they were hit by a shovel. Out of the about 800 roofs I have worked on almost all of the flashing repairs I have done have been because of the plastic boot rubber prematurely failing. If you go with a metal flashing go with aluminum as the galvanized rust and will leave streaks on your roof, the aluminum will not.

The next problem is with the statement of not putting roof cement under your flashing. According to the Ceertainteeds Master Shingle Applicators Manual this statement is incorrect. The reason that cement is put under the flashing is because of wind driven rain or snow. I have seen where wind driven rain had destroyed 4 room of drywall after hurricane Katrina. In addition this cement is part of the specification set for by ARMA (American Roofing Manufacturing Association).

The best way to install this flashing is as follows.

1. Remove the shingles above and beside the vent hole.
2 Place the flashing on your pipe and mark were the rubber stops. Then pull it up and off the pipe.
3. Take some clear caulk and run a ring around the pipe were you made the mark for the rubber.
4. Place cement on the bottom side of the flashing staying back .75-1 inch from the edge and slide it back down the pipe. This should seal the rubber gasket to the pipe and the roof deck. then nail the flashing to the roof deck.
5. Now cut the shingles to the flashing but keep a gap of about 3/8-1/2 inch from where the flashing rises off the deck. By keeping a gap here on the sides and top the water will flow faster off the flashing. If water sets here it can cause the shingle to deteriorate faster, or wick under the shingles.
6. Once the shingle is cut to size put cement on the bottom of the shingle where it makes contact with the flashing and nail it down. This cement will also keep water from wicking under the shingle. In addition it will help keep the shingle from blowing off in high wind.

If you are damaging the seal down strip or not using new shingle make sure you seal the shingle where this strip is missing or damaged.

Sorry this is long, hope it helps.

Were not teaching a newbie roofer how to properly install a pipe flashing in a State with hurricane codes, were giving advice to a home owner on how to properly install it himself 'DIY" in a manner in which it will not leak.

No, you don't/shouldn't use a shovel to remove snow from your roof.

jimpick 12-30-2010 02:26 PM

Sorry if I ruffled your feathers. It needs to be installed correctly whether it is done by a DIYer or a new roofer. The above directions are correct nation wide and will insure that the roof will not leak. Vent stacks are notorious for leaking because of incorrect installation.

It has been my experience that people like to know why something is done the way it is explained. The hurricane Katrina remark was just a example, a example that applies where ever high winds can happen.

Slyfox 12-30-2010 06:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jimpick (Post 559281)
Sorry if I ruffled your feathers. It needs to be installed correctly whether it is done by a DIYer or a new roofer. The above directions are correct nation wide and will insure that the roof will not leak. Vent stacks are notorious for leaking because of incorrect installation.

It has been my experience that people like to know why something is done the way it is explained. The hurricane Katrina remark was just a example, a example that applies where ever high winds can happen.

No need to be sorry, I was not offended by anything you said.

You did show me how I made mistake tho, this is the World Wide Web and
I should have asked the OP where he was located before I responded because roof installations spec's are different from one area to another.

I know exactly where you coming from because I have installed roofs in several southern states where the type of procedure you refer to is the way the flashing's are installed.

My comment about teaching a newbie roofer was incomplete.
I meant we weren't teaching a newbie roofer in an area like yours in which the procedure you explained is needed/required.
A newbie roofer in my area would be taught the way Tinner and I explained.
Also in my area, like Tinners, we do not use any caulking or roof cement when installing our flashing's, which is why Tinner made mention of taking the black jack back to the store.
I suggest the OP use it even tho I wouldn't because he doesn't have over 30 years experience like Tinner and I do so the roof cement will be an extra precaution.

Gnfanatic 01-01-2011 02:05 PM

Alright guys. I did the job this morning. The shingles were not very forgiving at all. they cracked easily and I had to be extremely cautious. I did it the way you guys told me to do it. I got a tad sloppy with the black jack just to me make me feel more comfy about the install. I am hoping this wont leak and planning to tear off all the shingles and re-roof in a year.\


thanks again and Happy New Year


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