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Old 12-23-2013, 01:18 AM   #16
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How can I fix the rotten T-111 above shingles and under gutter?


The trim board can be 6" high- far enough to get into good wood siding. No flashing under the new board needs replacing- only add one new flashing over the new trim. Your existing roof/wall flashing should be tall enough up the wall to raise the bottom of the new trim board 2" above the roofing to meet code; "R905.2.8.3 Sidewall flashing. Flashing against a vertical sidewall shall be by the step-flashing method. The flashing shall be a minimum of 4 inches (102 mm) high and 4 inches (102 mm) wide. At the end of the vertical sidewall the step flashing shall be turned out in a manner that directs water away from the wall and onto the roof and/or gutter." From;http://publicecodes.cyberregs.com/ic...9_9_par033.htm

"5. Wood siding, sheathing and wall framing on the exterior of a building having a clearance of less than 6 inches (152 mm) from the ground or less than 2 inches (51 mm) measured vertically from concrete steps, porch slabs, patio slabs, and similar horizontal surfaces exposed to the weather." From; http://publicecodes.cyberregs.com/ic...?bu2=undefined

Gary
PS. This way you won't need to replace more sheets in future years.

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Old 12-23-2013, 06:51 AM   #17
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How can I fix the rotten T-111 above shingles and under gutter?


That's the picture I was looking for Gary.
Not a big fan of galvanized, due to rusting. They make the same profile in PVC and aluminum.
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Old 12-23-2013, 02:06 PM   #18
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How can I fix the rotten T-111 above shingles and under gutter?


the trim board is not really necessary but holding the ends of the sheets up off the roof is
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Old 12-27-2013, 12:46 PM   #19
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How can I fix the rotten T-111 above shingles and under gutter?


I agree, Joe, just grabbed that one when I saw the measurements were correct. The mineral coatings do wear off in the rain rinsing and clean the roofing (asphalt) so it looks like it was just installed in that small wash area below. Turbine vents/turtles/pipe boots all leach galv. off and usually the rust has taken hold somewhere on it, easy to spot from the ground or with binoculars at inspect. And the coatings today are so much thinner...

Tom, why the "L" flash there? Is that permanent? Nice detail on the shingle notch...We get Mason bees/spiders when trim is gaped in our location. I know around here leaving metal that close to roofing traps debris and soon mold thrives there.

Gary
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Last edited by Gary in WA; 12-27-2013 at 07:44 PM.
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Old 12-27-2013, 08:02 PM   #20
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How can I fix the rotten T-111 above shingles and under gutter?


cause it's supposed to be there..
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Old 12-27-2013, 08:06 PM   #21
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How can I fix the rotten T-111 above shingles and under gutter?


For what purpose, Tom? Isn't the roofing step-flashed, per code?

Gary
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Old 12-28-2013, 01:59 PM   #22
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How can I fix the rotten T-111 above shingles and under gutter?


no i just ran a bead of tar and capped it with the metal..there's a code?
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Old 12-28-2013, 04:18 PM   #23
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How can I fix the rotten T-111 above shingles and under gutter?


My State code follows the IRC; "R905.2.8.3 Sidewall flashing. Flashing against a vertical sidewall shall be by the step-flashing method. The flashing shall be a minimum of 4 inches (102 mm) high and 4 inches (102 mm) wide. At the end of the vertical sidewall the step flashing shall be turned out in a manner that directs water away from the wall and onto the roof and/or gutter." From; http://publicecodes.cyberregs.com/ic...9_9_par033.htm

Yours may be different, though highly unlikely as most codes refer to the manufacturers directions for the warranty, and meeting product use; check with local AHJ.

I have installed 5 or so different brands of asphalt and all required sidewall step flashing. From an Inspector's link; "If you see continuous, one-piece flashing like this used as sidewall flashing with shakes, shingles or slate, it’s a defective installation, no matter how often you see it."
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Old 12-28-2013, 04:46 PM   #24
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How can I fix the rotten T-111 above shingles and under gutter?


More than likely it's just a cover piece, the step flashing is hidden by it. A single pc of flashing is an indication of a potential problem, not a given that it was done incorrectly...it just requires a bit more investigating before it's called incorrect.

The debris issue is valid though, I would be hesitant to do such a detail if the roof collects a lot of debris. But if the HO complained about the side wall look with step flashing, I would cover it up with a similar detail to Toms.
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Old 12-28-2013, 05:33 PM   #25
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How can I fix the rotten T-111 above shingles and under gutter?


the small 3/4 '' return is a non issue as to debris or mold,actually much less of an issue had there been a trim board installed

when you elevate the siding on a rake wall the tins must be much larger,they weren't which required the counter,it's removable and much better looking than exposed tins
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