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Old 11-20-2012, 12:24 PM   #16
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I agree with 1985gt. They should have cut test sections before even giving an estimate.

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Old 11-20-2012, 02:53 PM   #17
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Core hole would have told them what they needed to know.

No time to skimp on ISO in this case. Your roof will be much cooler and leveled out.

Depending on the shape and size, slope ISO is a great option as well. Might cost a small fortune in some cases but worth a looksee.
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Old 11-20-2012, 04:11 PM   #18
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gekk.....I know a good roofer in your area.....let me know if you want his info....and no, no relation to him....he just did my roof....did a great job...and has been used by a contractor friend for years.
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Old 11-21-2012, 04:21 PM   #19
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ddawg16 feel free to refer your roofer via PM.

Windows on Wash can you expand on ISO I haven't heard of that, unless you're talking about polyiso?

Out of 5 contractors only one did a test cut, sort-of scary if you ask me...

Can a GC that holds a class B license legally do a roof?

Am I able to share my bids on the forum without disclosing contractor info or is that frowned upon?

Thanks Everyone and Happy T-Day!

Last edited by gekkie96; 11-21-2012 at 04:26 PM. Reason: text
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Old 11-21-2012, 04:33 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gekkie96 View Post
ddawg16 feel free to refer your roofer via PM.

Windows on Wash can you expand on ISO I haven't heard of that, unless you're talking about polyiso?

Out of 5 contractors only one did a test cut, sort-of scary if you ask me...

Can a GC that holds a class B license legally do a roof?

Am I able to share my bids on the forum without disclosing contractor info or is that frowned upon?

Thanks Everyone and Happy T-Day!
You can't recieve PM's....yet....I think your post count has to be higher....email me if you want ddawg16@socal.rr.com

I can't answer the license part....but, I've seen quite a few posters list the bids minus the actual name.

Personally...I think it's good....It helps the rest of us in understanding the process. I wish I knew 4 years ago what I know now....and knew about this web site.
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Old 11-21-2012, 04:48 PM   #21
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Emailed you ddawg16
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Old 11-21-2012, 06:05 PM   #22
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A roofer just told me that I can't put more than a 1 inch polyiso insulation on my roof because the city wont allow anything thicker, I find this a little hard to believe, is there anyway to find out if this is true or not in Granada Hills, I already left the city inspector a message but he never calls back.

This roofer also bid me a price for R30 5 inch polyiso and then told me about this so called city limitation and said the price only decreases $400 for the 1 inch polyiso, I think he might be playing games, any thoughts?

Thanks
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Old 11-22-2012, 12:25 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gekkie96 View Post

Windows on Wash can you expand on ISO I haven't heard of that, unless you're talking about polyiso?

Thanks Everyone and Happy T-Day!

Yes...Poly Iso insulation is what I was referring to.

Happy Thanksgiving to all!!!
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Old 11-26-2012, 11:52 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gekkie96 View Post
A roofer just told me that I can't put more than a 1 inch polyiso insulation on my roof because the city wont allow anything thicker, I find this a little hard to believe, is there anyway to find out if this is true or not in Granada Hills, I already left the city inspector a message but he never calls back.

This roofer also bid me a price for R30 5 inch polyiso and then told me about this so called city limitation and said the price only decreases $400 for the 1 inch polyiso, I think he might be playing games, any thoughts?

Thanks
I can't comment on your city code but it doesn't seem right.

if the difference between 5" ISO and 1" Iso is only $400 unless your roof is around 1 sq... I would walk away from them.

It costs me around $80 per square for 2.5" ISO, and 42 for 1" That's my cost, that does not include mark ups at all, so thats around 40 per square difference, not to mention the screws 37 dollars a box of 2 1/4 preassembled compared to 68 for 6" preassembled. 5 or so squares per box. so $8 per square of 2 1/4" $14 for the 6".

You can kind of see where I'm going with this, yes you can post estimates just block out the identifying info.
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Old 12-03-2012, 03:56 PM   #25
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We decided to go with a 1.5 inch foam roof, here's the contract let me know if you think we missed anything and if this is a good deal? The company is reputable based on research.

APPLICABLE SPECIFICATIONS FOR POLYURETHANE SPRAY FOAM ROOFING SYSTEM TO BE INSTALLED TO THE BUILDING REFERENCED ABOVE BASED ON
SQ. FT. 4500


SPECIFICATIONS:
  • Clean and prepare (existing roof) deck surface as necessary for the proper application of spray foam roofing system.
  • Remove the existing roofing material down to T&G deck and remove from jobsite. 3 layers of roofing and insulation.
  • Replace badly delaminated plywood or substrate as necessary at $95.00 per 32 sq. ft. area installed. (No plywood replacement suspected at this time however, plywood replacement cannot be determined until roof is removed and will be an extra to contract.)
  • Install new metal foam stop at perimeter. Metal will be brown.
  • Install new down spout and drain at corner of roof at right front corner of the roof
  • Mask as necessary to protect from overspray. Cover pool and spa, any over spray on house or property will be cleaned and removed.
  • Prime roof deck with SWD 2000 sealer at the rate of 1/2 gallons per 100 sq. ft. as necessary.
  • Apply 1.5 inch thickness of SWD "Quik-Shield" 125 (2.5-3.0 lb.) density polyurethane foam to the roof surface.
  • Build up apparent low areas to promote positive drainage.
  • Apply *SWD 1929-F "Quik-Shield" elastomeric base coating at the rate of 1 gallon per 100 sq. ft. in a contrasting color to top coat.
  • Apply *SWD 1929-F "Quik-Shield" WHITE elastomeric top coating at the rate of 1-1/2 gallons per 100 sq. ft. (SWD "Quik-Shield"
  • Coating is Energy Star, CRRC California Title 24 Compliant with a solar reflectance of %82 and emittance of 91%.)
  • Broadcast #9 granules into wet finish coat at the rate of 30 lbs. per 100 sq. ft.
  • Clean and detail premises to remove any job related debris.
  • Issue 15 year NO LEAK renewable warranty with no exclusions.
  • Permits will be included and pulled by CONTRACTOR.
  • Tear off crew will hang and seal plastic to entire interior ceiling of house. Customer will cover belongings in house.
  • Fascia board can be replaced at 7.00 per ft, primed.
  • T&G wood panels can be replaced at 7.00 per ft primed.
  • Any repairs requested by city inspector will be done at no additional charge to customer, roof will be completed to city code. And a final inspection will be completed by city inspector.

Payment Terms:
PROGRESS PAYMENTS WITH 100% DUE UPON COMPLETION

BASE PRICE: $20,000.00

I will post pictures of the project from start to finish so others can see the process for a foam roof.

Last edited by gekkie96; 12-03-2012 at 03:57 PM. Reason: change
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Old 12-03-2012, 04:21 PM   #26
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Interesting. I would have expected more $ for 45sq and 3 layer T/O. I see the warranty is 15yrs, what is the expected life expectancy of that type of roof system ?

I think his plywood replacement # is pretty high. Our attitude is your paying enought for a roof as it is, we are going to keep the #'s on wood replacement as low as possible. I think $95 a sheet is high.

Not sure what city your in, but you will most likely need smoke detectors ( 1 per bed room + 1 per story) and CO detectors ( 1 per story ) installed as part of the roofing inspection process. They may have a self cert form or they will want entry to confirm the installation of them.
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Old 12-03-2012, 04:29 PM   #27
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Interesting. I would have expected more $ for 45sq and 3 layer T/O. I see the warranty is 15yrs, what is the expected life expectancy of that type of roof system ?

I think his plywood replacement # is pretty high. Our attitude is your paying enought for a roof as it is, we are going to keep the #'s on wood replacement as low as possible. I think $95 a sheet is high.

Not sure what city your in, but you will most likely need smoke detectors ( 1 per bed room + 1 per story) and CO detectors ( 1 per story ) installed as part of the roofing inspection process. They may have a self cert form or they will want entry to confirm the installation of them.
A foam roof expected life is around 20-30 years depending on who your talking too but it does require a new top coat every 7-10 years but this extends the warranty when you do it. Were not worried about the plywood cost as we have no sheeting its all T&G and $7 per ft was lower than any other roofer we got bids from. We do have smoke detectors in all the bedrooms and other areas of the house but good to know.

We went with this roofer as he did our neighbors roof 7 years ago and they are really happy with it.

This price was not the lowest but also not the highest I think this company is able to be more competitive because they manufacture the foam as well...
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Old 12-04-2012, 01:11 PM   #28
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Core cuts should be done at the start of the job. Sometimes I have customers who refuse, but I always at least ask. Furthermore, if the customer refuses I wrote it clearly in my proposal that I am guessing.


tear off down to the wood.

insulate, if you have a cold deck design, honor it and improve the insulation beneath the wood. If you have warm deck design increase the insulation as much as you can afford. Also if you have cold deck design, don't forget proper ventilation.

All details, flashings etc must be replaced.
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Old 12-04-2012, 01:32 PM   #29
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My thoughts on spray foam is it is one of the worst roof systems out there. There is no way of creating a smooth surface, or one that drains properly with out the use of ridged ISO boards. I've never seen the coatings last 7-10 years on a low sloped foam roof, on a moderate sloped metal roof I have. Birds will pick at the foam, hail will create breaks, and cracks or breaks will go unnoticed as the foam will help hold in the moisture. Keep your warranty papers handy you will need them, good luck.
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Old 12-06-2012, 04:21 PM   #30
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By code you are supposed to tear off after you have two roofs in place. You currently have 1/2 inch of rigid fiberglass insulation, multi-ply built up roof, probably asphalt but may be coal tar pitch, The recover roof is 1.5 inch rigid fiberboard, followed by an asphalt BUR with a granule surfaced cap sheet.

Get a RCI registered roof consultant to come out and design a new roof for you. It will be the best money you ever spent. For starters, you need to get slope to drain in the design. Modified Bitumen does not do well in ponding conditions, and NO MANUFACTURER WARRANTS A PONDED ROOF, AND NO MANUFACTURER WARRANTS RESIDENTIAL LOW SLOPE ROOFING. You need a good design and specification, and a good commercial low slope roofing contractor. Low slope roofing is water proofing, not water shedding, and it must be done correctly.


Last edited by jagans; 12-06-2012 at 04:23 PM.
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