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Old 03-12-2010, 01:42 AM   #1
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Hip/ridge shingles, or cut 3-tabs?


Hip/ridge shingles seem quite expensive. I was thinking to use cut 3-tabs over the ridge vent (cobra 3) where waterproofing is not an issue, then proper hip/ridge shingles on the hips.

Is this a bad idea?

FWIW, the main roof will be 30-year, but $250 for hip/ridge shingles seems a little pricey to me.

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Old 03-12-2010, 07:50 AM   #2
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Hip/ridge shingles, or cut 3-tabs?


There are many dimensional 30 yr shingles that have colors that can be matched with 3-tab 30 yr shingles.
A 30 yr 3-tab has the same thickness/quality/longevity as most h&r,
not all because some are double layered like TimberTex.

If you can match the color than sure, if not don't.

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Old 03-12-2010, 10:28 AM   #3
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Hip/ridge shingles, or cut 3-tabs?


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Originally Posted by Slyfox View Post
There are many dimensional 30 yr shingles that have colors that can be matched with 3-tab 30 yr shingles.
A 30 yr 3-tab has the same thickness/quality/longevity as most h&r,
not all because some are double layered like TimberTex.

If you can match the color than sure, if not don't.
Sorry, my information was incomplete. The roof will be Timberline NS, Weathered Wood, I was thinking to use TimberTex on the hips where they won't have the added protection of the rigid vent, and to cut Royal Soveirgn 25-year 30tabs for the ridge.

I just realized that the colors between lines are not an exact match... but weathered gray is nearly indiscernible from weathered wood especially on the ridge of my 2-story 6/12 roof of house on a hill. So I don't really have an issue with color, I just want to ensure that using cut 25-year shingles over my rigid vent would not create a weak link in the chain of my roofing system.

====

All advise and comments are appreciated. FWIW, I'm using a contractor to tear-off and install the field of 30-year shingles @ 50/square and replace decking at $35/sheet (or $30/sheet if over 10 sheets... and it may be).

I've elected to save $225 by installing my own ridge vent after they complete the job, and therefore my own ridge shingles.

Drip edge is not universally installed here in Atlanta, but that seems like a mistake to me. Coments on this are appreciated, but I'm thinking to install it. The contractors instalation price of $2/LF seems steep, so I'm thinking to DIY there, but that's a bit trickier, as I will have to remove the outer course of shingles to put it on before the roofers arrive for the tear-off.

They are asking $150 to install the flashing kit for my tubular skylight where I have already framed the entry point. Again, seems just a tad steep for what will probably be 30 minutes work for them, but I'm thinking it would be better done by the pros than having me add it after the roof is installed?

Would it be a bad idea to cut the hole and nail down the flashing kit before they arrive?

FWIW, I have a set budget that will be applied to other projects with the same contractor if I can stretch it by doing parts of all of them myself.

Advise is much appreciated.
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Old 03-12-2010, 10:37 AM   #4
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Hip/ridge shingles, or cut 3-tabs?


if you drip edge before tearoff fig on buying it twice... so pay him onece, flashing price is insurance also
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Old 03-12-2010, 10:39 AM   #5
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Hip/ridge shingles, or cut 3-tabs?


Thanks for pointing out the obvious error in my thinking re:drip edge.
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Old 03-12-2010, 10:54 AM   #6
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Hip/ridge shingles, or cut 3-tabs?


Are the roofers going to offer a warranty if they don't do all the work?
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Old 03-12-2010, 11:33 AM   #7
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Hip/ridge shingles, or cut 3-tabs?


I have family in Roswell and Norcross. I've walked around up there watching new home construction and re-roofs. I noticed years back that drip edging was not used much up there and "rake molding" was used instead. I've also noticed a lot of rake molding replacement on those homes built within the last five years. There's a high-dollar sub-division here, less than ten years, built with rake mold. I worked on three of these homes last year, replacing rotted rake mold. Rake mold seems hard to justify if it doesn't last longer than that. David
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Old 03-12-2010, 03:20 PM   #8
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Hip/ridge shingles, or cut 3-tabs?


They are going to warranty 2 years, with specific exclusions for named work I elect to do. I figure most roofing installation issues should show within two years, am I mistaken?

The home is in Roswell, and I have a lot of bad decking around the perimeter which I believe is due to the lack of drip edge.
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Old 03-12-2010, 07:41 PM   #9
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Hip/ridge shingles, or cut 3-tabs?


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They are going to warranty 2 years, with specific exclusions for named work I elect to do. I figure most roofing installation issues should show within two years, am I mistaken?

The home is in Roswell, and I have a lot of bad decking around the perimeter which I believe is due to the lack of drip edge.
A major issue such as having shingles join together to close to the center of a valley will likely show up in months rather than years,
but a mistake such as placing fasteners to close to the valleys center may take years to show up.

Make sure nothing you do will interfere with their warranty.
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Old 03-13-2010, 09:19 AM   #10
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Hip/ridge shingles, or cut 3-tabs?


Sorry, but I'm not risking falling off a two story house for $225. I understand you'll save on the shingle cost, maybe you can get the contractor to use the different ones for you, although that could cause concern. The contractor must be "buttoning up " the peak until you can get back up there. I'm all for saving where we can, but, I've been to known to regret on some occasions. Climbing around on the roof is not as easy as those roofers make it appear.
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Old 03-13-2010, 11:47 AM   #11
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Hip/ridge shingles, or cut 3-tabs?


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Sorry, but I'm not risking falling off a two story house for $225. I understand you'll save on the shingle cost, maybe you can get the contractor to use the different ones for you, although that could cause concern. The contractor must be "buttoning up " the peak until you can get back up there. I'm all for saving where we can, but, I've been to known to regret on some occasions. Climbing around on the roof is not as easy as those roofers make it appear.
I agree, the $250.00 saving in this manner could come back to haunt you later if leakage issues do occur down the road because the roofer can always say, hey, it's leaking from the ridge.

I have done several roofs in which the home owners got together with family/friends and tore the existing roof off and cleaned/hauled away the debris from it, than I (roofing contractor) went in and installed the new roofing system.
That is a saving worth your time & risk.
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Old 03-13-2010, 02:51 PM   #12
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Hip/ridge shingles, or cut 3-tabs?


Good points here. They actually priced the roof vent cutting and installation separately, so I may just do the cutting myself (about half the charge).

I was thinking that tear-off would be more dangerous myself, although I was certainly tempted. (Much more potential savings there).

I've actually spent a good deal of time on my roof, cleaning gutters, and for the last year patching up vent boots with roofing cement. The peak is a place I am OK with going. If I did do my own tear-off I would get the advantage of bieng able to install my own gutter apron, this would realize another $320 in savings... as long as it doesn't rain before the roofers arrive.

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