Help!!! Why do I need to replace an 8 year old roof & how correct the problem?
This is related to post http://www.diychatroom.com/f9/why-le...le-osb-126477/.(more pics of valleys/leaks) My home was built in 2003 and roof is 8 years old, yet I have been told the roof is failing. Please see pictures attached: Spidering/cracks everywhere except ridge & top 3 shingle rows. This is a triple wide manufactured home.
What I was told today:
-Roof definitely needs replacing, not just fixed shingling/flashing of dormer valleys. (another roofer thought I have 7-8 years left in the roof)
1) Overexposed shingles..nailing (see pics)
2) lots of vents on roof, but only soffet vent for inflow. Roofer said I need Eave and Ridge venting system, but doesn't know if it can be put in on this home given the 3 sections butt together. The home manufacturer claims their engineering calcs were done and the venting should be sufficient. "All their homes are done this way." (That does not give peace of mind given the other roof issues)
3) potential product issue. This is a Milarkey product
Other issues: Dormers leaking & not properly flashed, valleys done poorly, PVC drip edge not over gutter, no step flashings.
What are your thoughts on 1-3? I don't want to re-roof if venting isn't sufficient.
PS. Please note that 4 of the large rectangular vents cannot be seen from where I am standing. The narrower 2 sections of the home end right above each dormer, and butt to the center section.
That type crack is caused from the wind lifting the shingles. Where do you live? Any hurricanes been through there?
Also with that low a pitch there should have been 30 years shingles install, or at least storm and ice shield over the whole roof and run the shingles closer together.
Look on any shingle manufactures web site and look under low sloped roof install instrutions.
I've attached some additional pictures:
-venting at front of house soffit
-back of house, not apparent venting
-side showing the lousy pvc 1" drip edge.
-area of leaks I had a tarp. I believe water was getting under the drip edge at the starter row (gaps in drip edge, doesn't drop into gutter, sits on gutter, etc)
-no apparent eave venting, though manufacturer says the rectangular vents on roof do that.
Thanks in advance!
Joe, this was measured today as a 5/12 pitch except for the dormer valley which is around a 2. The roofer was surprised once he measured it because he though it was a low pitch at first glance until he got up there. I am in San Jose, CA. No Hurricanes or tornadoes. Do the shingles look improperly nailed/over exposed? And do you think there could be merit to the house not breathing properly?
That's a crazy way they built that dormer, if they had of ran A ridge line furter up on the roof it could have been dome as a gable style roof and not have leaked. The way it is now the highest end of the roof leaves shingle ends exposed and lets water in under the shingles and dumps water from two differant places into the valley.
There is no over hang so there's no place to vent the soffets. Are the gable vents?
Those cracks are not from over heating.
And yes it was nailed to low.
The roof vents - some of them do not look like they're in the correct places.
Do you have any exhaust vents (bathroom.....or?)
venting into the attic?
As stated above - The roof framing on the dormer: is completely wrong!!!
Thanks a lot Joe. I have not noticed any gable venting. Just venting under the soffit at the front of the house.
The odd thing is that the top few rows of shingles plus the ridge do not have any cracks down all 64 feet of the house. Also my shed with a very low pitch roof has the same material with no cracking (yet the improper nailing). That kind of leaves me to believe there is something going on with the ventilation, but then, I know very little about roofing!
1. No way that is a 5/12. 3 maybe 4 at best.
2. That cracking is caused by flapping in the wind. Could have been during transport years ago. Top rows are not cracked because they are not installed until the unit is set on the lot.
3. It's just a cheap 20 yr 3-tab to begin with. Not uncommon for the original factory roof to fail in ten.
4. All those "vents" on your roof are for your plumbing and fans. There is no venting on your ridge at all. Installing it may not do any good as you probably have cathedral ceilings and the mfr generally packs the insulation with no baffles.
In the first set of pictures, the 5th one shows a tube skylight in the guest bathroom. There is a fan vent and plumbing vent. In picture 6 of that set by the dormer is the kitchen exhaust fans. At the far end past the chimney are two ceiling fan vents and plumbing vent. The manufacturer says all the black rectangular ones are otherwise air vents. If that isn't the case, what do you think these are for? In addition, I forgot and just noticed (because it is running) that in my hallway I have a system that circulates air. I'm not sure if that vents out.
OldNBroken, good point about the top row; however, I am not sure that theory quite holds about transport because I believe I have cracks in the shingles that are installed on site between the marriage lines of the middle section and outer two sections. (I'll have to double check. You theory would explain why the shed shingles held up giving it was installed on site as well).
My ceilings are 7-1/2 foot high on the outside wall to 9 feet once past the marriage line (11 feet from the wall) on each side of the house. I believe the roof is 11-12 feet at the highest point. (not sure if this means anything). From the hole I saw in my OSB, I see nothing but airspace.
Good to know this is a cheap 20 year product and 1/2 life is not uncommon. That at least gives some peace of mind the issue is probably not the venting. I'll double check those other shingles. Hopefully, they are cracked to and we can chalk this up to damage during transport!
I appreciate everyone's responses and input.
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