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Old 11-06-2011, 09:19 AM   #16
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Help with tricky valley


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Last edited by Gymschu; 11-06-2011 at 05:06 PM.
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Old 11-06-2011, 09:27 AM   #17
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Help with tricky valley


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That chimney cap looks kinda scary.
I don't give a damn about the chimney cap; I'm here to discuss the issue of re-roofing the valley.
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Old 11-06-2011, 09:44 AM   #18
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Help with tricky valley


Well, first, the unlined potion of the chimney, especially above the roof, is going to experience excessive condensation, deteriorating the masonry. Second, a flue below that that style of cap is subject to rapid swings of air pressure as the wind shifts, which can influence the effectiveness of the draft. Third, that style of "rain cap" will do a poor job of keeping rain, snow and debris out of the chimney and off the exposed portions of the top of the chimney.

Here's a chimney I saw recently where such condensation had deteriorated the portion of a chimney below a clay tile flue installed from the level of the cap up only:
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Old 11-06-2011, 09:55 AM   #19
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Help with tricky valley


Well, the bit above the roof IS lined, and the top of the chimney under the cap has beveled mortar.

How could the chimney possibly be better protected from rain without the cap?

Anyway, like I said, I don't care about the chimney. If it lasts another two years that's all I want. And it's working just fine, and is a hell of a lot better than what it used to be before I fixed it.
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Old 11-06-2011, 10:24 AM   #20
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Help with tricky valley


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i'm only trying to buy a year or two with the chimney, then it's getting torn down when i do a direct vent boiler.

i need a strategy with this roof. maybe i should tarp it and wait a year, and change the dormer design, move it over maybe.
maybe i should wait on the roof until the chimney comes down.

then again, it's leaking NOW.
I would move it. Not only because of the obvious that dormers in valleys are always bad news but just looking at it screams mistake.

The things an eye sore sitting there like that and as long as itís there regardless what you do in terms of water management it will always be a mistake.
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Old 11-06-2011, 08:18 PM   #21
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Help with tricky valley


"edit: i'm leaning toward the closed cut or long island style.
i would start by shingling up the valley, then overlap the bigger roof onto the valley.
would this be good?"

I've seen them leak with 3 layers of I&W. If the roof is wrong, it's gonna leak.

My options I'd offer would be:

1. Close it off by adding to the dormer.
2. Move or remove the dormer.
3. Faltten the valley between there so the exit is about 12" or so wider. Run the siding over under the exit, and you'll also have to step flash it into the steeper roof. Install flat-locked, soldered pans in the valley running 30" or so up each wall, etc, etc.
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Old 11-06-2011, 08:26 PM   #22
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Hey, it could be worse. This is a leaking roof I hope to get to work on some day. There's a tree growing up there too.
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Old 11-06-2011, 08:30 PM   #23
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Help with tricky valley


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Hey, it could be worse. This is a leaking roof I hope to get to work on some day. There's a tree growing up there too.
hey tinner,
i appreciate that man! makes me feel a bit better.
leaning towards not extending the dormer, and making an open copper valley that laps up the side of the dormer with sottered joints.
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Old 11-06-2011, 08:34 PM   #24
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It can be done, but matching that siding to widen the exit could be a bear to match.
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Old 11-06-2011, 08:35 PM   #25
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How much snow are we talking about?
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Old 11-06-2011, 08:35 PM   #26
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It can be done, but matching that siding to widen the exit could be a bear to match.
you lost me with this. what do you mean?
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Old 11-06-2011, 08:36 PM   #27
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How much snow are we talking about?
well, had 2+ feet last week.
whatever accumulates basically stays in the valley.
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Old 11-06-2011, 08:41 PM   #28
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Lot of snow. Irrelevant now, but did you know that the person who did that valley before really screwed the pooch? That 'weave' is so wrong, it's directing lots of water under the shingles. The courses were supposed to meet in the center, not 1'-2' up the steep side.
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Old 11-06-2011, 08:54 PM   #29
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Help with tricky valley


Here's what I'm talking about, though the scale and final location may need to be adjusted. And I suggest investing in some heat tape so there is no accumalation there.
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Old 11-10-2011, 04:00 PM   #30
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Help with tricky valley


here's the progress guys:
right click to open in new tab/window and view full size.


i can tell you that slope on the right is ultra steep. put some hair on my chest, that one did. makes the 12" pitch on the left feel like the tits.

here's the valley flashing:


any suggestions for how to proceed at the corner? i'm thinking another large piece of copper that's hooked into the lip of this piece, then start step flashing about 12" up from the corner and leave the corner area exposed copper.
i have the piece and was trying to fabricate it by hand. looks ugly but i think it will work and can't be seen from the ground.

or should i just start step flashing at the corner?


thanks for all the suggestions.

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