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Old 11-02-2015, 11:44 PM   #1
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help with replacing 17" of osb and 24" of siding


I had some rot on the bottom 14" of siding/osb (bad ledger attachment). The framing looks ok, some rot, but mostly solid. I removed 2 rows (12" each) of siding and cut out 17" high x 77" wide of OSB. How do I put back the OSB? Just nail it in-place 16" oc where the studs and rim joists are? What about the small gap where the new OSB meets the old OSB 17" above the bottom? Caulk it? Tape with a 3M seam tape (not sure it's sticky enough to hold)? Should i add blocking where the old and new OSB meet or is is just OK to caulk/tape that gap?

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Last edited by coloradotrout; 11-02-2015 at 11:51 PM.
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Old 11-03-2015, 12:22 AM   #2
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Check on this map or call local AHJ for seismic zone/wall sheathing lateral shear fastening requirements; http://publicecodes.cyberregs.com/ic...?bu2=undefined

May need blocking or not, use legal fasteners, watch for pipes hidden in the insulation; http://publicecodes.cyberregs.com/ic...?bu2=undefined

Add the OSB, tape the joints. Add the housewrap/tar paper in a slit of existing to step-shingle fashion for drainage out- not in to wood, tape the side laps. Others will be along shortly to add to this... my 2cents before bed, lol.

Gary

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17,000 dryer fires a year, when did you last clean the inside of the dryer near motor or the exhaust ducting?
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Old 11-03-2015, 12:36 AM   #3
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Rapid response greatly appreciated. I have no wrap, no tar paper. Yeah, I know, but not much I'm going to do about.

I have OSB sheathing and Masonite siding that is about like this -- http://www.menards.com/main/p-144443...12146219274468

I don't know if this is the class action lawsuit siding or not. It seems to do OK unless it gets damaged, or water reaches an exposed edge.

Generally, it's holding up, but I had this spot where the deck was not fastened properly and water got behind the siding, and rotted out the OSB.

In the least I'm thinking to caulk the old to new OSB seams with OSI quad - tool it into the seams.

When I put on new siding, I plan to paint all 6 sides.
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Old 11-03-2015, 10:53 PM   #4
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OSB requires a gap or (at least) tar paper/housewrap; http://buildingscience.com/documents...20in%2520walls

Hope it stays dry for you.

Gary
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Old 11-04-2015, 07:33 AM   #5
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buy some of this http://www.menards.com/main/p-144443...74652370754515 and do it right.

Always protect the bones of the house. The skin and muscle (sheathing can always be replaced.
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Old 11-04-2015, 07:51 AM   #6
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You can do the repair correctly or you can do it again and again. I don't understand people who ask how to do something and then say ,"wait, that's too much work". If you were going to do it, half assed to begin with, why bother to ask how to do it correctly?
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Old 11-04-2015, 08:14 AM   #7
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A real picture of what your trying to do would be a big help.
There's always a reason why something failed, if it did it once it will do it again unless you take the time to figure out what caused it and fix it right this time.
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Old 11-04-2015, 11:10 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joecaption View Post
A real picture of what your trying to do would be a big help.
There's always a reason why something failed, if it did it once it will do it again unless you take the time to figure out what caused it and fix it right this time.
Believe he referenced a 'ledger board' and improper installation of it.

Ideally want to leave a 1/8" gap when installing OSB. A repair like yours, don't loose your mind forcing it. That type of siding will cover and likely really not show any defects of the OSB being too tight. You have no vapor barrier, house built before early 90's?. Installing new serves no good purpose. Add blocking and Tape the joints if want, nothing wrong with that.

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