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Old 07-27-2010, 04:15 PM   #16
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Help!!!! New roof leaking!!!


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The reason why I caulked around the vents is because the vent wasn't laying flat on the roof. Do I need to rip out the vent and start over? So, let me get this right, is this the proper steps in putting in a vent like I have?

1. Felt paper
2. cut the hole
3. Put vent over the hole and nail down
4. Shingle around the vent, even on top
5. leave the bottom flashing showing with no shingles on top

Now, by doing the steps above, in my head I could see it leaking more because it was not sealed very well to the shingles. The main reason I did this is because of teh 2/12 pitch vs something a little steeper. I just didn't want the water to sit on the shingles and then seep its way between the shingle and the vent. Tell me if I am wrong, but in my head I thought I had done it correctly.
2/12 is too slight of a pitch for the shingles you used. Dimensional shingles can be used on a 2/12 with I&WS or half lapped 30lb felt underlayment. 3 tabs can go down to 3/12 with the same underlayment. Better buy yourself some buckets. You're gonna need 'em.

You might have done it correctly in your head, but you didn't do it right on the roof. I hate to be critical, but you need to ask these questions before you act. It doesn't look like you've done much of anything right. Unless you back up and re-do some things, you're in for some heartbreak. Good luck.

Remove the vent and all the caulk
Hole is already cut.
Felt is already there.
Run shingles to top of hole, or there-abouts. See the power vent link!
Run a bead of caulk across the bottom and up the two sides of the hole.
Install the vent.
Run the last TWO shingles around the vent. No caulk.

There should be about 3-5" of the vent side flanges showing when finished.


Last edited by Scuba_Dave; 07-27-2010 at 06:33 PM. Reason: Originally posted by Seeyou
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Old 07-27-2010, 04:43 PM   #17
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Help!!!! New roof leaking!!!


Seeyou,

WOW!! Thanks for the confidence. This is my dimensions on the roof and then YOU tell me what pitch I have. From the house it is 16 feet span, over 16 feet, it drops 3 feet. So, instead of telling me that I haven't done anything right, why don't you step back from the *******ness and try to offer some sort of remedy, which is why I am on here in the first place. If I thought I had done it correctly, I wouldn't have asked the question. Thanks for your opinion, but I'm sure it could be used on some other site, not that one.

Thanks to everyone else for your help!!
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Old 07-27-2010, 05:10 PM   #18
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Help!!!! New roof leaking!!!


There is plenty of online information (including this site) to guide you through every step of your addition.

I see all kinds of mistakes that could have been avoided with a little research.

Why is your OSB in the dirt?

Flashing goes over the fascia not the rafters.

Where’s the bird blocks?

2x4 rafters spanning 16’, what’s up with that?

I’m almost to the roof.

Everything CU said is what I was thinking.
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Old 07-27-2010, 05:21 PM   #19
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After enlarging one of your first pictures, I can see where you'll have more issues along the top edge. That window will let in water around the channels.
Here's a link to help you understand what will happen and how to flash that window ann any other siding you have up there. http://www.albertsroofing.com/Window%20Flashing.htm
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Old 07-27-2010, 05:25 PM   #20
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Osb isn't the dirt. It's on a concrete slab and is literally 4-5 inches above the dirt but thanks anyway. Nice to point out about the flashing over the fascia. Did you miss the part when I said that I messed up and didn't put the facia on and was asking for advice on this? Yeah, 2x4 trusses. They are engineered. I didn't just arbitrarily span a single 2x4 over 16'. The trusses are engineered to code. Thanks again for playing. So, again you and CU can go off I to the sunset together. It's obvious that I missed a few things, which is why I'm here.
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Old 07-27-2010, 05:39 PM   #21
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Help!!!! New roof leaking!!!


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Seeyou,

WOW!! Thanks for the confidence. This is my dimensions on the roof and then YOU tell me what pitch I have. From the house it is 16 feet span, over 16 feet, it drops 3 feet. So, instead of telling me that I haven't done anything right, why don't you step back from the *******ness and try to offer some sort of remedy, which is why I am on here in the first place. If I thought I had done it correctly, I wouldn't have asked the question. Thanks for your opinion, but I'm sure it could be used on some other site, not that one.

Thanks to everyone else for your help!!
Sorry. I'm not trying to be a jerk. You have a 2.25/12 pitch. You have installed a product rated for a minimum of 4/12 considering you've used single lapped felt underlayment. You've not allowed for fascia at the edges, so your overhang will be too short. The only remedy I have for you is to tear it off, get the proper roof material for that slope, and chalk this one up to continuing education. Don't take it out on me because you messed up. I've roofed for 30 years or so and there's no way I know that you're gonna keep that roof leak free for any period of time. If I could give you any other advice, I would. As I said, good luck.
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Old 07-27-2010, 05:49 PM   #22
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Ok, I respect the fact that you have roofed for 30 years. However, by code the minimum for what I have is 2/12 and you state that I have a little over that. So... By code I'm good. So, I won't be tearing it off and starting over. As far as he fascia, would it be too hard to just lift up he edge and put a fascia board, put new drip rail, then extend the shingles over. By doing this, I mean lift it up and essentially put another starter strip, but obiously not 5 or 6" overhang. I'm trying to fix what I messed up without having to reaccomplish the entire job all over. As far as asthetic reasons, this is on the back of the house and because my yard isn't that big, you can't even see up on the roof anyway. So, correct me if I'm wrong, but if I lift up the shingles, take off the drip edge, put the fascia on, put new drip edge, extend the bottom row without looking rediculous, then fix the vents and the flashing by the house, will all of this work (in theory)?
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Old 07-27-2010, 06:01 PM   #23
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Help!!!! New roof leaking!!!


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Ok, I respect the fact that you have roofed for 30 years. However, by code the minimum for what I have is 2/12 and you state that I have a little over that. So... By code I'm good. So, I won't be tearing it off and starting over. As far as he fascia, would it be too hard to just lift up he edge and put a fascia board, put new drip rail, then extend the shingles over. By doing this, I mean lift it up and essentially put another starter strip, but obiously not 5 or 6" overhang. I'm trying to fix what I messed up without having to reaccomplish the entire job all over. As far as asthetic reasons, this is on the back of the house and because my yard isn't that big, you can't even see up on the roof anyway. So, correct me if I'm wrong, but if I lift up the shingles, take off the drip edge, put the fascia on, put new drip edge, extend the bottom row without looking rediculous, then fix the vents and the flashing by the house, will all of this work (in theory)?
That 2/12 is for dimensional shingles with special underlayment, not 3 tabs on felt as you have.

The perimeter issue is correctable with the method you describe if you don't care how it looks.

The slope/wrong shingle/wrong underlayment issue is not correctable with out tearing it off and starting again.

What brand of shingle did you use? I'll get the install manual for you.

Just curious - Did you pull a permit on this job?
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Old 07-27-2010, 06:15 PM   #24
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Help!!!! New roof leaking!!!


I expect Dave to stop by soon, we are not here to tell someone they messed up, We are here to help each other out, keeping in mind that although most like doing the work themselves, I figure money has alot to do with us doing the job versus a contractor. That being said, I hope someone can help out here with this roof problem. I refuse to believe that it can only be corrected by a tear off and install. Let's put our heads together, Big Smile Now, and get this done.
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Old 07-27-2010, 06:26 PM   #25
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I expect Dave to stop by soon, we are not here to tell someone they messed up, We are here to help each other out, keeping in mind that although most like doing the work themselves, I figure money has alot to do with us doing the job versus a contractor. That being said, I hope someone can help out here with this roof problem. I refuse to believe that it can only be corrected by a tear off and install. Let's put our heads together, Big Smile Now, and get this done.
I've just perused several shingle installation manuals, just to make sure nothing has changed. Nothing has. I'm sorry the OP installed his roof incorrectly. I wish I was wrong. Maybe he'll get lucky. Maybe he knows something the shingle manufacturers don't.

Maybe if I take the brakes off of my car, the weight reduction will get me better gas mileage.
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Old 07-27-2010, 06:29 PM   #26
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Help!!!! New roof leaking!!!


I merged some posts (from the same people) trying to make the thread easier to read
Accidently merged 2 posts by different people

One reason for Pro's to be here is to point out what we -as DIY- do wrong

I'm not a roofer...I've done a few....used I&W on my low slope
Not sure from the pic what you used as a rafter, does look like 2x4's
Even a 2x6 will only span ~12' depending upon species & grade
Hopefully pics are deceiving & used at least a 2x8 for a 16' span

As well as code you must follow Mfg instructions
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Old 07-27-2010, 06:42 PM   #27
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Help!!!! New roof leaking!!!


Well CU, I just looked up the installation instructions, MSDS, technical data and everything else on my Owens Corning "Classic" 20 yr series shingles and it specifically states for "Standard decking" which is obviously 4/12, but ALSO states for "Low slope decks" and it is in black and white 2"-4". I have also attached the link to the technical details I have listed above. So, if I follow the MANUFACTURERS DOCUMENTATION, then I have done it correctly. Maybe not to YOUR standards, but according to the installation instructions, which they will warranty up to 20 years, I have done it correctly. Now, the fascia is done wrong, I know that. However, the pitch is perfectly fine and will work.

http://roofing.owenscorning.com/docs...b_Install2.pdf
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Old 07-27-2010, 06:47 PM   #28
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EVERYONE!!!! Just so I have your attention. I DID NOT SPAN 2X4s 16'. I HAD A TRUSS COMPANY MAKE ME TRUSSES THAT SPAN 16'. HOLY CRAP!!! Every house here in San Antonio is built with 2x4 trusses, so how come I am doing it wrong? I'm not. I know you can't visibly see the trusses, but let me help you rest better.
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Old 07-27-2010, 06:57 PM   #29
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a house going up across the street from me used trusses like that, or similar,, I had to google to learn about it,, is very strong, cheaper to put up, you just don't have attic space with it. I greatly understand the pro's coming in here to help, of course we need them as DIY's. I expect when mistakes are made that someone is smart enough to figure how to make it right. Of course, I might be a little bit naive and not want to hear bad news. I enjoy helping people, I wish I had more knowledge to share. Carry on....
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Old 07-27-2010, 07:15 PM   #30
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Help!!!! New roof leaking!!!


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Originally Posted by psychomti View Post
Well CU, I just looked up the installation instructions, MSDS, technical data and everything else on my Owens Corning "Classic" 20 yr series shingles and it specifically states for "Standard decking" which is obviously 4/12, but ALSO states for "Low slope decks" and it is in black and white 2"-4". I have also attached the link to the technical details I have listed above. So, if I follow the MANUFACTURERS DOCUMENTATION, then I have done it correctly. Maybe not to YOUR standards, but according to the installation instructions, which they will warranty up to 20 years, I have done it correctly. Now, the fascia is done wrong, I know that. However, the pitch is perfectly fine and will work.

http://roofing.owenscorning.com/docs...b_Install2.pdf
OK, there, psycho. OC was a brand I did not look up and apparently they have recently revised the 3/12 rating down to 2/12. Good news for you and thanks for pointing that out to me. But, as I mentioned before, there are special underlayment requirements for below 4/12 ( they have been revised recently, as well). Hopefully you followed them. If not, you might get lucky.

I guess you probably don't get much snow in San Antonio. But I suspect you get a good hard rain every now and then. The reason for the extra underlayment provision on low slopes is that the water travels more slowly and tends to pond on lower slope roofs. Water can breach the shingles at the gap between the tabs and get below the shingles at the joints between shingles. You are then depending on the underlayment to shed that water. If you don't have the eave detailed correctly, that water can get behind your fascia and rot it out.

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