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adova 09-07-2007 08:05 AM

Help with Barrel Tile Toof

I need to do some work on my garage roof towards the outer edges. In order to do this, I need to remove the barrel tiles to get to the plywood.

How can I remove and replace these tiles without starting at the top and removing all of the tiles through to the bottom?

I have been trying to get a roofing company to help, but no one even returns calls.

Thanks in advance!


the roofing god 09-07-2007 02:39 PM

That`s How You Do It

adova 09-07-2007 02:47 PM

That's horrible news - so much labor for such a small ultimate job. Thanks, though!!


Ed the Roofer 09-07-2007 06:54 PM

There is an alternative method as an option.

It depends on whether or not all of the tiles are nailed or wired in place.

Lets presume the unlikely scenario. They are all nailed into the battens.

You can lift up the tile enoughg to start the nail getting pulled out of the decking and battens. To be able to lift one tile properly, you will also have to jack up the next tile that rests on the side overlap.

***An easy way to jack up the side adjoining tile and the tiles above the one being replaced, is to utilize several straight claw hammers and slide the claw portion under the one needing to be lifteed, until it get raised up high enough to continue the removal process.***

At this point, you can either try to continue wiggling the tile until the nail lets loose and frees up the tile or you can purchase a slate nail ripper, which is a long flat bar with an arrow shape at the tip, which allows the bar to be slid under the tiles but when pulled backwards, the angles portion of the ripper locks ontom the nail shaft. The handle of the ripping bar has two 90* bends in it and after the tip is locked onto the nail, you strike the vertical portion of the handle with a good wacking hammer blow.

This will shear off the nail at the point of contact.

If their are locking hubs under the tile, they will be seated on the wooden batten board and will need to be manipulated so that you can easily slide the tile out of position. This action may require you to also jack up the tiles on the next row above the one you are removing, to relieve the contact commpression pressure from the head of the tile being removed.

Replacing the tiles just go in reverse sequence of the removal process. You will be unable to easily renial the new tile in place, but if proper securement is essential, then you can take on inch wide strips of 24 oz. copper and use copper nails to attach this strip to the decking under the removed tile. Then you leave enough of the "cleat" extending past the bottom butt edge of the tile so that it can be bent upwards verically and also backwards hoeizontally, to create a hanging bracket to ensure the tile does not slide down.

On the few calls I get for tile replacement, I get a minimum of $ 100.00 per tile, not including material costs, for each and every one required to be replaced with a minimum charge of $ 500.00.

You at least owe me a cup of coffee for this little trick.


the roofing god 09-07-2007 07:29 PM

unless he`s experienced w/the tile,chances are he`ll do more harm than good:wink:

Ed the Roofer 09-07-2007 08:56 PM

The worst he can do if nobody is responding to him is break a few tiles until he gets the hang of it.

If he winds up opening a can of worms, he wasn't careful enough.


adova 09-07-2007 10:24 PM

I might just hire some "cheap" labor to remove all of the tiles and I will take care of the rest.

My ultimate need to to run some 6x6 timber through the roof to support a trellace (sp) that we are having done. I twill go from inside the garage through the plywood and then through the barrel tiles and stick out about 3 ft.

Is there any recommendation to seal this up for best water leak problems? I was figuring good flishing job and lots of bull.


the roofing god 09-07-2007 10:50 PM

don`t break the channel lines on the tile,put better flashing and less bull(mortar seal would be better),we can`t tell you too much w/out pics or sketches

RooferJim 09-08-2007 11:12 AM

The clip method is really not the best way to do tile field repairs. the best way is to pop out the broken tile say with a good flat bar and a gentle nack. then wedge the tiles above the tile to be repaired with a wooden door stop type wedge then slide in the new tile then insert a copper slaters nail in the nail hole and with some skill you rest the head of your flat bar on the head of the nail make sure its straight and with one or two quick taps you hit the flat bar with your hammer to set the nail. no need to see unsightly clips that the snow will bend down and fall. I do a lot of slate and tile and this is the best and quickest way. You owe me a coffee and a bagel, and Ed owes me a six pack of Sam Adams.


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