garage roof done

wombosi

just wanted to share a few pics.
have no before shots or anything, sorry.

stripped the c himney side completely, lots of rot around the chimney and a few pieces up the rakes where there were overhanging branches. patched in a bunch of new t&g.

grace ice and water around the chimney, about 4 layers.
step flashing all around, then counter flashing chinked into the mortar. this took awhile and was pretty intimidating but i think i pulled it off well (it doesn't leak).
i bent all the copper by hand and with a hammer and various pieces of wood.
i rebuilt the cricket, then covered it with essentially two enormous pieces of step flashing extending up the roof deck.

i think i should probably just shingle over this area...



here she is:




a nice straight ridge:

Scuba_Dave

Very Nice !!

I like the copper look

Ed the Roofer

You did a beautiful job.

Did you install new mortar or a good caulking sealant inside the reglette joint prior to inserting the top copper hem into the joint?

You can also apply a bead of caulk to the exterior of the sheet metal to double the water migration protection and use a wet finger to shape it and trowel it in place nice and smooth and cantilevered to shed water.

Ed

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wombosi

thank you man. that's a huge compliment, especially coming from you.

i haven't sealed it in yet. right now they're held in place with little rolled up pieces of copper and kind of shimmed/jammed into the groove.

i've been trying to figure out if i should apply mortar over the groove, or just silicone; i guess i'll do the silicone based on what you just told me.

thanks a lot.
ben

Ed the Roofer

I do not see any fasteners holding the copper in place.

Even though the sheet metal copper may seem tight now, without being anchored to the masonry structure, there will be movement and loosening from it's attachment to the structure from expansion and contraction.

You can use either masonry nails and strike with slow progressive taps of the nail head into the saw-cut reglette joints or you can use a masonry hammer drill or rotary hammer drill and use either Tap-Con masonry screws or lead tap-in anchors, which are similar to vinyl drywall mollies.

The sealant or fresh mortar does it's best sealing and water infusion mitigation from being inserted behind the sheet metal and preferably into a clean reglette joint, prior to the flashing being anchored in place, which then allow an interior compression seal. Then, the exterior sealant along the edges provides an exterior protection also, but the interior one is the one that will remain to possess elasticity due to not being bombarded with the degradation of the Suns UV Rays.

Ed

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wombosi

thanks.
look closely at the top left corner of the middle piece of counter flashing. there are two or three of those in each piece.

so are you saying i can fasten nails or tapcons into a whole mortar joint a joint below where it slips in?

thanks.