Gable trim detail question with pics
I am replacing my shingles and sheathing and the wrap in the gable trim board. when measuring for the aluminum to be bent, I noticed that along the entire gable edge, that there is a 1/4" dip about 2" in from the edge. You can see it slightly in the circled portion of this picture.
That "lip" is from the sheathing being sightly higher than the 2x6 trim board. You can also see it here:
from left to right, it's the aluminum wrap, the 2x6 trim, the brown is the sheathing, then the gable wall, then the roof truss.
I drew up some options:
I am looking for ideas and what would be the best way to fix this. I will be using drip edge.
1. a spacer on the 2x6 to bring it up to the same plane as the sheathing
2. attach drip edge as is using a wider drip edge (it will still angle down)
3. run the sheathing over the 2x6 trim (it will ramp up at the edge since the 2x6 is higher than the trusses
I'm about to start this project. I keep coming back to the idea of running the sheathing up to but not over the 2x6 rake trim board. Then replacing the aluminum wrap with an "L" not having the lip projecting out under the shingle edge.
Then I would use a spacer, a strip of wood or PVC trim over the 2x6 to get it in the same plane as the sheathing. Over this I would run a strip of ice and water followed by a F style drip edge. This will overlap the "L" wrap on the rake trim board.
You can strip it in with any material you want really.
I have used plywood, scrap shingles and metal, it's a filler installed for aesthetic purposes and once you install the new drip and shingles you'll never see that filler.
You can also use drip edge with an over sized nailer that will run a couple inches beyond that point on to the roof sheathing and get the same quality look.
Mechanically either method works.
Until "Sly" gets back.
Try not to, have to nail through the face (exposed face) of the drip edge.
Nail through the top flange of the drip edge, into the roof.
However: if for some reason, you have to nail through the exposed,
face of the drip edge -
Pre-drill the holes where the nails will go -
(Size of drill bit: slightly, larger than the "shank" of the fastener)
Use compatible nails aluminum/stainless/galv. -
Drive the nails "snug" - not "dead tight" - (nail-set).
If you're going to wrap the trim (aluminum?) -
don't do this until, after the trim is installed. :)
Thanks, What I meant was if I use a spacer over the 2x6 trim board like the blue in the pic, can/should I nail into it as well as the sheathing?
in the picture, should I just nail where "nail1" is or can I nail into where "nail2" is?
Yes the wrap (green) is going to be aluminum.
Yes, you can nail through that.
However: ideally, if the drip edge is aluminum -
Probably, should be aluminum nails.
Make sure the nails are long enough -
thickness of the "spacer" plus 3/4 inch (minimum) into the sub-fascia.
Take your time and try not to nail through the exposed, face of the
(Nice sketches - what did you use?)
You can place nails in both 1 & 2 spots.
I normally would place the inside nails 'spot1' every 24" or so and on the outside 'spot 2' I would place them double that distance to limit the chance of splitting the facia board.
You'll want to pay close attention to your shingle fasteners there also.
Nice work! :)
Pay attention to what "Sly" says concerning the placement of the
I've had to replace WAY, too many pieces of that profile drip edge:
the roofers "shot" through the upper, lip of the drip edge -
leaving exposed nails, against or through the face of the drip edge
that goes against the fascia.
It didn't look very good!
(We called that style of drip edge "ODE" - "D-Stock")
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