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Old 06-12-2013, 08:51 AM   #16
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Flat Roof Repair Advice


OK so that sounds good. Assume I will follow that plan. Now, for the big puddle areas at the low end of the roof...I would love to fill them with some sort of insulation covered with some kind of new layer before doing the plan you outline. What would I use for layered insulation to bring up those levels and what would I use to "glue" the insulation in place? What would I use to "glue" the new layer, what would I use for the new layer on top of the insulation? I really want to bring up the level so that it dries within 12 hours not 2 days like it is now.

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Old 06-12-2013, 09:54 AM   #17
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OK so that sounds good. Assume I will follow that plan. Now, for the big puddle areas at the low end of the roof...I would love to fill them with some sort of insulation covered with some kind of new layer before doing the plan you outline. What would I use for layered insulation to bring up those levels and what would I use to "glue" the insulation in place? What would I use to "glue" the new layer, what would I use for the new layer on top of the insulation? I really want to bring up the level so that it dries within 12 hours not 2 days like it is now.
The only thing you may want to do it to dry out that area really good, prime it with D-41 primer and fully torch another layer of APP over the existing membrane as a sacrificial surface, prior to re-coating.

DO NOT install insulation over the existing roof. all you will do is move the pond, not eliminate it. Deflection in your rafters, and that Dumb Axe diverter are causing your current ponding. These will be addressed when you install a new roof.
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Old 06-12-2013, 10:42 AM   #18
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I'm not sure I'm going to torch anything, never did that.

I was just thinking of raising it up a half inch just to get more of it to run off and to dry quicker, not to eliminate it. What's wrong with doing that? Seems like I could just put some 1/2 insulation then tack a layer of something on top and seal it. Why is that no good? I think most of the problem is the standing water eating away at things.
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Old 06-12-2013, 11:40 AM   #19
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I'm not sure I'm going to torch anything, never did that.

I was just thinking of raising it up a half inch just to get more of it to run off and to dry quicker, not to eliminate it. What's wrong with doing that? Seems like I could just put some 1/2 insulation then tack a layer of something on top and seal it. Why is that no good? I think most of the problem is the standing water eating away at things.
I do not think, from your responses that you are capable of making anything you install water tight, so whatever you install will quickly become saturated and stay saturated, instead of drying out in the sun. You could try installing another layer of modified along the diverter in cold process adhesive, again, as a sacrificial layer, but were I you, I would not install any type of coverboard.

It is your roof though, so do what you want.
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Old 06-12-2013, 11:43 AM   #20
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OK, thanks...will need to think it over. Thanks for all of your help so far I really appreciate it!
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Old 06-12-2013, 11:53 AM   #21
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I would agree, just coat it for now and save that money for the re-roof later on. A properly applied coating should last you a couple of years at least.

remember prep work is the key! Oh and Karnak has some great alumacoatings.
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Old 06-12-2013, 01:48 PM   #22
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How much should I cut the primer with the mineral spirits? Thanks
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Old 06-12-2013, 02:37 PM   #23
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How much should I cut the primer with the mineral spirits? Thanks
Try 2-1 D-41 Primer is pretty heavy.
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Old 06-13-2013, 05:26 AM   #24
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2 parts primer one part mineral spirits? Thanks
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Old 06-13-2013, 07:54 AM   #25
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yes, take a jar and pour in some primer, then add MS till it gets about like paint thinned to spray. You dont want to apply it too heavy like you would on concrete, you just want to displace any moisture, and aid adhesion. Blow off the roof with compressed air if you have that capability, or at least a leaf blower. It would be good to apply it with a three or four knobbed resat brush, but if you cant get that use a long china bristled scrub brush on a stick. You want to work it down into those small fissures in the roof.

Apply the aluminum as soon as the primer dries, and stir it constantly as the Aluminum flake settles to the bottom fast.
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Old 06-13-2013, 11:05 AM   #26
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Thanks so much sounds like a great plan.

I have not found Karnak or Bulldog or any other good name yet. I have a line on some Tremco fibered alluminum sealer at cost and those guys are telling me it's way better than karnak and used on all of the schools, lasts much longer...I don't know but I can get it for $60 per 5 gallon bucket. Sounds good and I can get all of the other materials I need from this guy too...one stop shopping and all great prices.
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Old 06-13-2013, 11:10 AM   #27
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It's this one:

http://www.tremcoroofing.com/filesha...0220U805_U.pdf
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Old 06-13-2013, 11:18 AM   #28
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Tremco products are generally very good. Go Ahead. Again, the key is to keep stirring, and apply two coats minimum. Work right out of the bucket with a phenolic core 3/4 inch nap roller, and move the can often, so you can roll out the spills.
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Last edited by jagans; 06-13-2013 at 11:24 AM.
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Old 06-13-2013, 11:19 AM   #29
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Excellent! Yes I got the big drill powered agitator this morning.
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Old 06-13-2013, 11:28 AM   #30
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Awesome, the stuff is ready for me all at one place - total for everything is $586. I feel great about this!!! Thanks everyone for all the help!!! I really appreciate it. I'll follow up and post pics!

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