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Old 04-12-2010, 08:20 PM   #31
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Yes, nobody would ever suggest you rip out the ceiling... that was never a question.

Can you take some closeup pictures of the doorway/wall area?

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Old 04-12-2010, 08:24 PM   #32
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Old 04-12-2010, 09:36 PM   #33
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salahnajm , listen up ......time is on your side ,warm weather ahead, and think this out,as you don't want to fight this leaking next winter. It appears you have 8 inch aluminum siding, so expose about 18 inches of what's behind it,from the roof up that is. You need to get rid of that door, and put a window in, as you need a straight shot to flash to keep the effects of a snow build-up. Forget that 30 lb felt,and if your lumber feels solid with no spongy spots just glue the rubber to the roof you now have, but it will be lumpy and have some wrinkles.When you get to the edge of the roof ,just roll it over into the gutter till you hit the gutter stand-offs. Have Home Depot rip you a 2x4x8 green treated half inch by the inch and a half way and pre-drill the holes and lay it on top the gutter stand-offs and nail through the rubber to hold it down. High wind can rip up the rubber no matter how well you glue it. You also need to run the rubber up the wall at least 12 inches, 18 is betterthat you uncovered and use roofing nails to span the off-set gaps in the old wood siding. Once the rubber is in place, you can buy some roll flashing 18" and put a slight bend out 4 inches using a 2x4.That 4 inches will be exposed. When you put the siding back you will put holes in the metal and rubber ,but the rubber should seal. Getting back to the gutter ,you will need gutter guard and screw it to that wood stripping. This will make your wife proud of you ,she may even fix your coffee in the morning. By the way you'll need some siding where the door is. bernie here......72 and still learning myself.

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Old 04-13-2010, 12:18 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bernieb View Post
salahnajm , listen up ......time is on your side ,warm weather ahead, and think this out,as you don't want to fight this leaking next winter. It appears you have 8 inch aluminum siding, so expose about 18 inches of what's behind it,from the roof up that is. You need to get rid of that door, and put a window in, as you need a straight shot to flash to keep the effects of a snow build-up. Forget that 30 lb felt,and if your lumber feels solid with no spongy spots just glue the rubber to the roof you now have, but it will be lumpy and have some wrinkles.When you get to the edge of the roof ,just roll it over into the gutter till you hit the gutter stand-offs. Have Home Depot rip you a 2x4x8 green treated half inch by the inch and a half way and pre-drill the holes and lay it on top the gutter stand-offs and nail through the rubber to hold it down. High wind can rip up the rubber no matter how well you glue it. You also need to run the rubber up the wall at least 12 inches, 18 is betterthat you uncovered and use roofing nails to span the off-set gaps in the old wood siding. Once the rubber is in place, you can buy some roll flashing 18" and put a slight bend out 4 inches using a 2x4.That 4 inches will be exposed. When you put the siding back you will put holes in the metal and rubber ,but the rubber should seal. Getting back to the gutter ,you will need gutter guard and screw it to that wood stripping. This will make your wife proud of you ,she may even fix your coffee in the morning. By the way you'll need some siding where the door is. bernie here......72 and still learning myself.
Your wife will make your coffee for about a week when this way of doing it fails miserably.
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Old 04-13-2010, 08:40 AM   #35
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Mr AaronB, if you would be kind enough to go into detail where my idea will fail, it would certainly be appreciated. Afterall this man Salahnajm is looking for opinions and has already been stung by people who say they know the answer. This is a diy board .....people helping people........so I'm not soliciting a contract. Please, your answer, so others will learn.
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Old 04-13-2010, 09:27 AM   #36
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Originally Posted by bernieb View Post
Mr AaronB, if you would be kind enough to go into detail where my idea will fail, it would certainly be appreciated. Afterall this man Salahnajm is looking for opinions and has already been stung by people who say they know the answer. This is a diy board .....people helping people........so I'm not soliciting a contract. Please, your answer, so others will learn.
Yeah, I have to agree with bernieb... I'm just asking for different opinions for the simplest (and as effective as possible) DIY... Aaron, if you think his diy wouldn't work, what would you suggest? and why wouldnt it work?

I guess, all I want to do is cover the roof with a single ply material and get the edges well as bernieb said. I'm still not sure which material to go with; epdm, pvc or tpo. The thing I wasn't sure about epdm, which seems the most recommended material, is that it reacts with the tar making the job slightly more complicated by needing to cover my roof first and then apply the epdm.

Is there another material I can get to cover my roof in one piece that's good enough and I can just glue over my current roof? and of course I will plan to work the edges very well.

So It's been raining slightly these past couple of days and no leaks so far so I do not want to rip or cut or drill holes in my current roof.

Worse case senario for my diy I guess would be a complete disaster and then I'll have to hire a professional company to rip the whole roof and do a new one (hopefully not)
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Old 04-13-2010, 05:09 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by salahnajm View Post
Yeah, I have to agree with bernieb... I'm just asking for different opinions for the simplest (and as effective as possible) DIY... Aaron, if you think his diy wouldn't work, what would you suggest? and why wouldnt it work?

I guess, all I want to do is cover the roof with a single ply material and get the edges well as bernieb said. I'm still not sure which material to go with; epdm, pvc or tpo. The thing I wasn't sure about epdm, which seems the most recommended material, is that it reacts with the tar making the job slightly more complicated by needing to cover my roof first and then apply the epdm.

Is there another material I can get to cover my roof in one piece that's good enough and I can just glue over my current roof? and of course I will plan to work the edges very well.

So It's been raining slightly these past couple of days and no leaks so far so I do not want to rip or cut or drill holes in my current roof.

Worse case senario for my diy I guess would be a complete disaster and then I'll have to hire a professional company to rip the whole roof and do a new one (hopefully not)
bernieb's method is a tru diy method, any roofing contractor who did work like that would not last long, thus any roofers replying to his comment is going to recommend you away from that installation procedure.

Will bernieb's way work?

I cut the tip of my finger 70% off once at work, it was roughly 7.30am,
I pushed it back together, wrapped a piece of my shirt that I just cut off for that purpose and wrapped all that in black electrical tape, worked 10 hours, went home and I had my Wife clean it and wrap with butterfly band aids, did that work?, I still have my finger, so Yeah.
Would some one who works in the medical profession tell a patient calling in on the phone or on a website forum recommend that method, noway.

As a roofer ArronB and any other respectful roofer can only advise you on how to install/repair your roof according to manufacture specifications, using time tested methods.

Any single ply roofing material that you can install in a single piece will be non compatible with the existing roofing system.
Any edge detail work that uses lumber instead of termination 'metal' bar and doe's not have water block 'specific type of caulking' behind it and fastened properly with screws 'not nails', will not last the full term of the expected roof span.
Termination bar, or flat stalk metal flashing should be used on the walls instead of just roofing nails ran through the material alone.
Epdm, tpo, etc., are not self adhering materials and will not act as washers to any nails/fasteners ran through them.

If your sure this is a diy project your up to, I suggest you be patient on walk through the scenario process of questions that ArronB is asking and than decide on which method/type of repair you will go with.

No disrespect meant ot anyone here, we are offering our assistance free of charge and doing our best to assist you.
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Old 04-13-2010, 06:20 PM   #38
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I have to admitt Slyfox ,it was a professional answer, but lets be fair with the home owner on where he's at in his life. It sounds like yourself and Aaron are truly professionals with many busted fingers to prove it. My theory is ,this home owner is going to do the job himself with a limited amount of money to spend and he wants to do it himself, and I'm sure we all got started that way. I'm trying to tell the man he can stop it from leaking for less that 500 bucks with my method. A five thousand dollar roof job could put this man in divorce court ,but the roof won't leak. Which way does a responsible contractor choose? a hard decision for some. With all the responses this homeowner has gotten ,no-one has detailed him a work formula for the perfect job. The man has sent numerous first class pictures ,what else do you need? tears in his eyes?
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Old 04-13-2010, 07:22 PM   #39
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Well, now I have asked a couple of questions, in order to form the best remedy that I can with the limited power of the internet.

All I am getting is responses such as "I don't want to tear it off, or cut into it", etc., which I have never suggested. If the poster assumed I had said these thinds, well then that is his problem, and he will have to deal with that personality issue on his olwn.. I cannot help him with that.

I asked for a closeup of the door and wall areas... there are issues I am looking for. I have not yet seen the pictures I requested, which would allow me to help the original poster possibly save the time and hassle of putting on a roof that is likely to fail.

Now if you're wanting simple advice on how to cheaply stop the leaks, then we are working toward a common goal. I am doing this for no benefit to me. I don't get paid to do this. There is no defined return on investment of my time, so please bear with my deductive questions. We will find a solution for you if we cooperate.

Once again, can I please get a closeup of the bottom of the door and the roof/siding transition, especially that gap in the siding, and the bottom of the door? Please make no further assumptions as to what you think I may tell you, but have not. I am trying to help you. I have not said any of the things that you keep posting about tearing off, or cutting into, etc. Those kinds of assumptions only hinder progress.

Your roofing membrane does not seem worn out, and I am suspecting these two areas for flaws in the detailing.
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Old 04-13-2010, 07:28 PM   #40
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I cannot give out good advice with poor data to go off of.
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Old 04-13-2010, 07:34 PM   #41
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Originally Posted by bernieb View Post
I have to admitt Slyfox ,it was a professional answer, but lets be fair with the home owner on where he's at in his life. It sounds like yourself and Aaron are truly professionals with many busted fingers to prove it. My theory is ,this home owner is going to do the job himself with a limited amount of money to spend and he wants to do it himself, and I'm sure we all got started that way. I'm trying to tell the man he can stop it from leaking for less that 500 bucks with my method. A five thousand dollar roof job could put this man in divorce court ,but the roof won't leak. Which way does a responsible contractor choose? a hard decision for some. With all the responses this homeowner has gotten ,no-one has detailed him a work formula for the perfect job. The man has sent numerous first class pictures ,what else do you need? tears in his eyes?
What I need is a few closeups of the wall/roof transition areas, as I have requested.
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Old 04-13-2010, 08:26 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bernieb View Post
I have to admitt Slyfox ,it was a professional answer, but lets be fair with the home owner on where he's at in his life. It sounds like yourself and Aaron are truly professionals with many busted fingers to prove it. My theory is ,this home owner is going to do the job himself with a limited amount of money to spend and he wants to do it himself, and I'm sure we all got started that way. I'm trying to tell the man he can stop it from leaking for less that 500 bucks with my method. A five thousand dollar roof job could put this man in divorce court ,but the roof won't leak. Which way does a responsible contractor choose? a hard decision for some. With all the responses this homeowner has gotten ,no-one has detailed him a work formula for the perfect job. The man has sent numerous first class pictures ,what else do you need? tears in his eyes?
You misunderstood my comment Sir.
I was not trying to say your method will or will not work (I will not comment either way), nor was I attempting to be disrespectful too you.

Was your post on your installation method an acceptable diy'r response, yes it was.
Was your post on your installation method a professional (contractor) response, no it was not.

I can not reply as a diy'r, I can only reply as a roofing contractor who has done this type of work for 30 years now.

If he takes your advice, God speed to him, I'm not offended at all and I wish him good luck.
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Old 04-13-2010, 09:09 PM   #43
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I cannot give out good advice with poor data to go off of.
These are the pictures you were asking for, let me know if you need more pics...

I think the leak is possibly coming from the sides with heavy rain, specifically the first pic I put up on post #8... nothing to base my theory on, but that's the only thing I notice that's probably not sealed well (the area between the 2 membranes on the side)
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Old 04-13-2010, 09:26 PM   #44
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in order to properly waterproof your roof, whatever you choose, you will have to remove a couple of courses of siding.

Unfortunately, with the door this close to the roof, this will always be a PITA. I suspect you are having issues at or behind the siding. I cannot tell for sure, but now you know where to look.
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Old 04-13-2010, 09:38 PM   #45
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in order to properly waterproof your roof, whatever you choose, you will have to remove a couple of courses of siding.

Unfortunately, with the door this close to the roof, this will always be a PITA. I suspect you are having issues at or behind the siding. I cannot tell for sure, but now you know where to look.
I think I can rip the siding (right?) and look behind it and take a few pictures.. It wouldn't be a big issue putting the siding back, right? I'll have to find some time after work these next few days...

So you don't think its from the sides like I was thinking (post #8 where the gutters are?)

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