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Old 06-25-2010, 12:51 PM   #16
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Flashing advice


seeyou - I'll do it just like you said. I practiced soldering galvanized flashing last night and it turned out alright. I'll stick it in a bed of 'blackjack' anyways to make sure. I used a torch, but I'll see if I can find a hunk of metal to preheat and use instead of a flame. I don't think starting with a pre-made piece would help me out much.

Michael - I can't say that I've ever seen that before, but I like that idea. How high above the roof are you thinking? 1" projecting up from the roof and 5"+ under the shingles? It has to be low enough that the siding (up the side of the dormer) doesn't have to be cut too high. I'd fold a piece of flashing over on itself to give it a little more rigidity. You'd see it projecting up, but I could paint it to blend in.

I've got three dormers and three other locations similar to this, so I want to get it all straightened out. Thanks for the help.

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Old 06-25-2010, 04:07 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by Ben W View Post
I can't say that I've ever seen that before, but I like that idea. How high above the roof are you thinking? 1" projecting up from the roof and 5"+ under the shingles? It has to be low enough that the siding (up the side of the dormer) doesn't have to be cut too high. I'd fold a piece of flashing over on itself to give it a little more rigidity. You'd see it projecting up, but I could paint it to blend in.
I just realized that this is a partial retrofit rather than a re-roof.

Ideally, if I was roofing/siding that from scratch, I would would run waterproof shingle underlayment 6" up the side of the dormer and out along the roof sheathing 24" horizontally from the roof/wall intersection, and down to the eave, and over the drip edge, and the side/flash/roof over it.

However if you get up there and find that all you have under the shingles is roofing felt (or worse just paper) it would be preferable to step flash below the dormer corner instead of using a single continuous flashing; if you inter-layer the flashing between the shingles in the same manner as standard step-flashing at a roof/wall intersection you won't have to worry about water infiltrating sideways under the shingles above the horizontal leg of the flashing, as infiltrating water will just run off the shingle below the flashing.

If you get up there and find Ice & Water Shield properly installed as eave protection, then you could use a continuous one-piece flashing below the dormer corner.

You won't need much upturn on the flashing below the intersection - 1/2 - 3/4 inch above the top surface of the upper shingles would be plenty. If you are in snow country, the flashing will have to be stiff enough to survive wet snow and perhaps ice moving down the roof.

Keep in mind that everything has to overlap in the direction of water-flow, if you can't find a satisfactory way to install the kick out following this rule, omit it.
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Old 06-25-2010, 04:21 PM   #18
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This is a full re-roof. I'm striping it down to the deck and pulling off all the siding and trim. So I have the option of doing whatever I need to. I'm putting down I&W at the eaves, and up and over the dormer.
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Old 06-25-2010, 05:10 PM   #19
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This is a full re-roof. I'm striping it down to the deck and pulling off all the siding and trim. So I have the option of doing whatever I need to. I'm putting down I&W at the eaves, and up and over the dormer.
If you use a starter strip up that little rake area in front of the dormer, that will raise the outside edge of the shingles enough so water will not tend to flow over the side. It doesn't look like it's been a problem in the past, so it's not likely to start being a problem. The biggest issue that I see is that the siding is too tight to the roof.

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