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Old 04-17-2013, 12:00 PM   #16
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Which Flashing?


For the record my link was just so the OP could get an idea of what flashing he needed. It was not specific to his situation. Anything he does will need to be shop formed. Easy to do with a decent metal shop.

Also for the record, the flashing and field sheet should be two separate pieces. I don't care how they do it on the west coast or what a state inspector said. If we installed a roof like that it would not pass a manufactures inspection. 1. No cant strip. 2. Flashing not installed properly.


If you have never seen a 2 pc receiver style counter flashing in 20+ years I don't know what your looking at. We run in to it all the time, and install them all the time. Even have made some that were surface mounted. Much easier to unscrew a few sheet metal screws then to mangle up a counter flashing trying to get under it.

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Old 04-17-2013, 12:08 PM   #17
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Which Flashing?


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Originally Posted by 1985gt View Post
For the record my link was just so the OP could get an idea of what flashing he needed. It was not specific to his situation. Anything he does will need to be shop formed. Easy to do with a decent metal shop.

Also for the record, the flashing and field sheet should be two separate pieces. I don't care how they do it on the west coast or what a state inspector said. If we installed a roof like that it would not pass a manufactures inspection. 1. No cant strip. 2. Flashing not installed properly.


If you have never seen a 2 pc receiver style counter flashing in 20+ years I don't know what your looking at. We run in to it all the time, and install them all the time. Even have made some that were surface mounted. Much easier to unscrew a few sheet metal screws then to mangle up a counter flashing trying to get under it.
Once again...this seems to vary by location.....the stuff done on the west coast is somewhat different than the East and NE....

I'm 4 miles from the ocean....no snow....we 'might' get 12" of rain a year....in winter...I'm still wearing shorts.....
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Old 04-17-2013, 12:30 PM   #18
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Which Flashing?


This is how I'm going to be doing mine....

Thanks for all the input guys....

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Old 04-17-2013, 01:37 PM   #19
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Which Flashing?


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Once again...this seems to vary by location.....the stuff done on the west coast is somewhat different than the East and NE....

I'm 4 miles from the ocean....no snow....we 'might' get 12" of rain a year....in winter...I'm still wearing shorts.....

I've never seen two sections in a manufactures manual, one for west coast and one for the rest of the world.

Just because someone thinks that is the way it should be done doesn't make it true.

http://www.tamko.com/Libraries/Docum...l_Flashing.pdf

http://technicaldatabase.fsbp.com/downloadFile.ashx?fileId=[fid=19156|pid=747]


But yeah good luck with the project.
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Old 04-17-2013, 02:23 PM   #20
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Which Flashing?


From a flashing stand point, which is what the OP is asking about, the detail shown is problem free. I agree it could be 2 pc which would help with reroofing it in the years to come...but the proposed detail is not wrong.

Any roofer worth a damn can reroof that when the time comes and not F up the existing Z bar. I dont need a 2 pc wall flashing, but it is a great option and i will surely be using it if i can (room additions, new construction). 99% of what is here in So Cal is that flashing detail shown in the OPs most recent post...with the exception of the demensions of the zbar which is usually 2x1x3.
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Old 04-17-2013, 03:01 PM   #21
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Which Flashing?


Not saying the counter flashing he is using is wrong, at least this one. The two previous ones were to small. I'm just saying there is other/better ways to do it. Only thing I would add to the proposed flashing would be a hem and a kick.
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Old 04-17-2013, 05:01 PM   #22
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Which Flashing?


I do like the idea of the hem, but its a wall flashing dripping on to modbit kick or no kick... why the drip kick? You got me curious.
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Old 04-17-2013, 05:29 PM   #23
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Which Flashing?


English....can we speak English?

One thing I'm wondering about....10-20 years from now...how would a roofer remove what is behind the flashing to replace it?

Also....one of the things I've learned....water intrusion is not always because of a leak....quite often it's caused by weeping....so...is water going to be able to weep up inside the flashing?

I do plan to caulk and paint that top portion of the 1x6....just in case any water gets up there.
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Old 04-17-2013, 10:07 PM   #24
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Which Flashing?


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English....can we speak English?
What the detail in your post shows is to the left, a drip edge kick is the middle and the hem is the right.

I could see heming the far left one, but the far right one is not going to sever any purpose. Either one of the three will still drip on the Modbit...unless i misunderstand what 1985gt is talking about. Afterall, we on the west coast only know about building bean sprout sandwiches
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Old 04-18-2013, 12:02 PM   #25
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Which Flashing?


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I do like the idea of the hem, but its a wall flashing dripping on to modbit kick or no kick... why the drip kick? You got me curious.
In some cases water can wick in between the couterflashing and flashing, in this case if the top of his flashing isn't sealed it would possibly leak. That isn't always the case though. 90% of the metal we bend drip edge, gravelstop, cap, various wall flashings all have a hem and a kick. Very few cases do we build them with out, and I can't recall a time we have built one with out a hem.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ddawg16 View Post

English....can we speak English?

One thing I'm wondering about....10-20 years from now...how would a roofer remove what is behind the flashing to replace it?
A hem is where the bottom 1/2 or so of the metal is bent 180 degrees. A kick is where the bottom 1/2 or so of the flashing bent out at around a 30 Deg angle, both help with water not wicking in behind the flashing.

When the roof gets replaced most likely what will happen is a couple of gorillas will come in and bend the living day lights out of the counter flashing. If your lucky they won't damage the stucco.

If you real lucky they will cut the flashing (modbit) around a foot or so away from the angle change and pull up and hopefully the 1X6 doesn't splinter all to pieces.

In this case a bit of money spent on a 2 pc flashing now may be made up in the future when reroof time comes.


Quote:
Originally Posted by AndyWRS View Post
What the detail in your post shows is to the left, a drip edge kick is the middle and the hem is the right.

I could see heming the far left one, but the far right one is not going to sever any purpose. Either one of the three will still drip on the Modbit...unless i misunderstand what 1985gt is talking about. Afterall, we on the west coast only know about building bean sprout sandwiches
Yep talking about the same thing only we just call it a kick.

Nice Pic!
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Old 04-18-2013, 12:43 PM   #26
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Which Flashing?


Ddawg, your last detail combined with the hem and kick of the far right flashing in Andy's picture are a good combination. The hem adds some stability and the hem and the kick keep the edge from digging into the roofing. The kick helps water to flow out onto the roof instead of straight down the wall and, sometimes, wicking back up. Also any counterflashing should extend down a minimum of 3" below the top of the wall flashing.

As far as what they are saying about your wall detail of the membrane, it should have a cant strip and the walls should be min 8" tall and flashed separately onto the field. Asphalt should never bend at a 90 degree angle. Like you said, too late now. It does look like someone was pretty meticulous about installing the roofing which surprises me that they didn't do it correctly in the first place.

I believe Fry Reglet has a two-piece CF design for stucco. Might check into that.
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Old 04-18-2013, 01:04 PM   #27
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Ddawg, your last detail combined with the hem and kick of the far right flashing in Andy's picture are a good combination. The hem adds some stability and the hem and the kick keep the edge from digging into the roofing. The kick helps water to flow out onto the roof instead of straight down the wall and, sometimes, wicking back up. Also any counterflashing should extend down a minimum of 3" below the top of the wall flashing.

As far as what they are saying about your wall detail of the membrane, it should have a cant strip and the walls should be min 8" tall and flashed separately onto the field. Asphalt should never bend at a 90 degree angle. Like you said, too late now. It does look like someone was pretty meticulous about installing the roofing which surprises me that they didn't do it correctly in the first place.

I believe Fry Reglet has a two-piece CF design for stucco. Might check into that.
Interesting comment.....prior to getting this section of roof done I got several quotes, did a lot of research and asked the questions here. It basically came down to hot mop (which is what my plans say) to torch down. I went with torch down....mainly because I've heard that replacing it is a whole lot easier in 20 years than mop down...

The material the roofer used is not just asphalt....it's looks like cloth, plastic and a bunch of other stuff....real flexible...good luck trying to tear it...it looks like it has the synthetic cloth in it....

But getting back on topic....I assume your suggesting that the issue is the way it turns up at the sides?
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Old 04-18-2013, 01:08 PM   #28
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Which Flashing?


I understand having the drip edge kick, but around here you will not see it on any residential job. If you look at the first pic of the gorilla mangled zbar, my crew had no choice but to screw it down...which looked like major poo.

A drip edge kick on that metal would look odd imo. The second pic shows the cover metal (SS metal that happen to match his house color)i applied over the mangled zbar. Would it not look odd with a drip kick? The cover metal was hemed at the bottom to give it rigidity, but no kick was needed...imo.

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a2...ps20228673.jpg

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a2...ps3a583ac7.jpg

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Old 04-18-2013, 01:29 PM   #29
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Which Flashing?


Andy, you are correct. In your pictures it would look like ass. I am referring to flat roofs and the types of flashing/counterflashing/copings we deal with. Most commercial details call out a hem and kick for a finish.

Ddawg, it's not going to kill your roof. Like I said, it looks like your roofer is very meticulous and the work looks good. The reason for cant strips is that as the roof ages and dries out the stress of a 90 vs a 45 degree will cause the membrane to fail at that bend. I'm not one of those posters who tears things apart because they weren't done exactly by what a book says. I am a 30-year freshman attending the School of Hard Knocks. I was just trying to edumacate you on the reasoning for cant strips as well as not running field material continuously up the wall.
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Old 04-18-2013, 01:31 PM   #30
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To each their own. We have done some with out a kick mostly for one builder. Screwing it back down is about the only option you have. The cover up looks good though.

This is one we did for the same builder I was referring to. Note: We did not do the oil canned Fascia wrap. I did how ever do all of the Cor-10 siding. If you notice the drip edge this one has a kick. This builder loves to do the stepped style fascia, most of the projects do not have kick, for looks. I prefer a kicked edge, more so on wall flashing and the likes.
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