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Old 04-15-2013, 09:27 PM   #1
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Which Flashing?


This is a combination Stucco/Roof question.

On one section of my roof....low pitch...hence, torch down....

I have a 6" board that comes up the side...with the torch down stuck to it....



I just about ready to start the stucco....hence, I need some flashing to sit on top of it. I have two different sizes I can use. I want to use the larger one but I wonder what happend 15-20 years from now when it's time to redo the torch down.....the larger flashing will make it difficult to get out the membrane....

3/4" Z Flashing....



2" Z Flashing



Side by side for comparison....



So....which one should I use?

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Old 04-15-2013, 10:44 PM   #2
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Which Flashing?


The 'taller' one that provides more overlap.

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Old 04-15-2013, 11:09 PM   #3
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Which Flashing?


the 2"x1"x3" Z-bar is what you want...your second option.

Also, it appears in your pic you have the 3" at the wall...i dont see it or install it that way, the 2" goes behind the siding / stucco and the 3" is what we tuck the roofing under.
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Old 04-16-2013, 12:07 AM   #4
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How do you replace the roofing under the 3"?

And....does 2" give me enough room for the weep screed that has to go on there? So I install the weep screed about a 1" above the Z?
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Old 04-16-2013, 12:26 AM   #5
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Which Flashing?


The 3" gives you a bit more play when it is time to redo the torch down. The 2" behind the siding or stucco is plenty...you could have some custom size made to fit your application if you wanted.

I'm a roofer, but from what i have seen in OC & LA in the last 20+ yrs is just the 2x1x3, no weep screed ( just for that particular transition). The Z is the only transition metal needed in that situation.
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Old 04-16-2013, 12:30 AM   #6
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Which Flashing?


so....you just nail a stucco j channel right down to the transition?
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Old 04-16-2013, 12:37 AM   #7
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Which Flashing?


nope, the Z is your transtion metal.

It is installed to the wall and the lath paper comes down over the 2" section. Is this right, i dont know, but its the way every home in So Cal is done with very few exceptions. Of course this is only used at the transition from the wall to your torch down... diff transition metals for different situations.

You could get it made any size you want it, even colored...just depends on what you want. I use a company in Placentia and one in Orange when i need it a specific size and or color.

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Old 04-16-2013, 08:07 AM   #8
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Which Flashing?


Quote:
Originally Posted by tinner666 View Post
The 'taller' one that provides more overlap.
+1

Other one doesn't have nearly enough overlap.
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Old 04-16-2013, 08:48 AM   #9
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Which Flashing?


Well first of all its not flashed right. There is supposed to be a 45 degree cant strip at the angle change, under the field sheet, and the field sheet should extend to the top of the cant strip. This provides that all important water dam, and allows the membrane to turn in a 45 degree angle, rather than a 90. The deck sheet should then be degranulated on the cant and 4 inches out on the deck and the flashing sheet should extend min 4 inches above the top of the cant, across the cant and out onto the deck 4 inches, The counter-flashing should be a 2 piece snap in to allow replacement of the flashing.
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Last edited by jagans; 04-16-2013 at 08:51 AM.
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Old 04-16-2013, 01:16 PM   #10
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Which Flashing?


Agreed the wall flashing, or lack there if is not done correctly. As for the counter flashing use a 2 pc system like this http://www.metalera.com/Products/Acc...rflashing.aspx

Even the "taller" one doesn't have enough coverage. Also the top of the wall flashings should be term bared off or nailed off.
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Old 04-16-2013, 01:27 PM   #11
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Which Flashing?


Quote:
Originally Posted by jagans View Post
Well first of all its not flashed right. There is supposed to be a 45 degree cant strip at the angle change, under the field sheet, and the field sheet should extend to the top of the cant strip. This provides that all important water dam, and allows the membrane to turn in a 45 degree angle, rather than a 90. The deck sheet should then be degranulated on the cant and 4 inches out on the deck and the flashing sheet should extend min 4 inches above the top of the cant, across the cant and out onto the deck 4 inches, The counter-flashing should be a 2 piece snap in to allow replacement of the flashing.
I'm going to have to partially disagree.....construction methods on the West coast differ quite a bit from how you do it....

I had a couple different roofers look at my roof...both were saying the same thing....and my inspector said it was fine....

What I wasn't sure about was how to do the base of the stucco.....I've seen some houses where the weep screed stopped above the transition....

More research needed....

My goal is not to just do it to code...but to do it so that I never have to worry about leaks.
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Old 04-16-2013, 02:48 PM   #12
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Which Flashing?


90degree verticle turns on modified will fail in 5-7years. It will crack at the joint, especially at the inside corner. It is a small fix now, where in 5 years .....
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Old 04-16-2013, 08:31 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PatChap View Post
90degree verticle turns on modified will fail in 5-7years. It will crack at the joint, especially at the inside corner. It is a small fix now, where in 5 years .....
Can you translate to English?

Moot point now....I found this link....my answer was on the last page.

http://www.tsib.org/pdf/plaster-asse...co-details.pdf
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Old 04-16-2013, 08:53 PM   #14
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Which Flashing?


What you have is pretty typical of what is done on the west coast. Yes the cant strip would have been helpful, but doute it would fail in 5 yrs... even if its just a one layer over a base sheet it will hold up longer than that without cant strip.

A two pc flashing makes good sense, but not the one in the link... it appears to be set up for an existing finished wall. You dont need to cut a reglet, eliminate that part of the flashing in lieu of something that nails to the OSB/Ply then stucco or side over it properly. Re doing flat roofs is a steady source of work in OC, i have yet to see any two pc flashing in 20+ yrs, but i like the idea of it.

I guess i assumed you ment the one in the link, but they do have one here:
http://www.metalera.com/Accessories/...shing-(1).aspx

ddawg16 - that flashing on the last page would have to be custom made, plenty of shops around here capable of doing so.

Last edited by AndyWRS; 04-16-2013 at 09:15 PM.
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Old 04-16-2013, 10:56 PM   #15
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Which Flashing?


Quote:
Originally Posted by AndyWRS View Post
What you have is pretty typical of what is done on the west coast. Yes the cant strip would have been helpful, but doute it would fail in 5 yrs... even if its just a one layer over a base sheet it will hold up longer than that without cant strip.

A two pc flashing makes good sense, but not the one in the link... it appears to be set up for an existing finished wall. You dont need to cut a reglet, eliminate that part of the flashing in lieu of something that nails to the OSB/Ply then stucco or side over it properly. Re doing flat roofs is a steady source of work in OC, i have yet to see any two pc flashing in 20+ yrs, but i like the idea of it.

I guess i assumed you ment the one in the link, but they do have one here:
http://www.metalera.com/Accessories/...shing-(1).aspx

ddawg16 - that flashing on the last page would have to be custom made, plenty of shops around here capable of doing so.
If you want a MB roof that lasts. You will install it in two plies, a smooth ply and a cap sheet over a mechanically fastened Glass base sheet as a shear plane. You will use a cant strip at vertical transitions and flash with two plies of Modified bitumen per the manufacturer's detail drawings. You want the top of the flashing to be at least 8 inches above the deck. Just because everybody else does it wrong, there is no sense following them over the cliff, especially if this is your own home, wherein you have control.

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