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Old 09-27-2012, 10:07 PM   #1
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explain this soffit/fascia/eave frame


nevermind. i need to know if more/less attic venting is needed.
Thanks anyway.


Last edited by barklay2342; 09-28-2012 at 08:47 PM.
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Old 09-27-2012, 10:20 PM   #2
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explain this soffit/fascia/eave frame


Post a picture.
Paint on pressure treated wood is going to peel, and putting an aluminum gutter in contact with it will corrode the gutters.

Simple ansewer to your second question. Never work with only one person when doing this type of job.
It would be cheaper even if you have to hire someone then to be out of work for 6 months or worst if you get hurt.
I'm helping out a customer right now that fell off a step ladder trying to remove his 20 gutter and fractured his heel, 15 weeks on crutches.

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Old 09-27-2012, 10:28 PM   #3
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explain this soffit/fascia/eave frame


Barklay, what part on NJ are you in? My house is also about 40 years old, so I'm wondering if I might run into the same thing when I get to that point
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Old 09-27-2012, 10:36 PM   #4
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explain this soffit/fascia/eave frame


good point about the pressure treated against aluminum. I primed and painted it a lot though. it won't peel where it's sandwiched at the gutter.

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Old 09-27-2012, 10:40 PM   #5
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Since you probably can't remove fascia while on a roof, i.e reaching over and down from the roof with a nail puller using a
mirror/feeling around for nail heads plus the fascia might break a window on the way down.
It's hard to remove fascia from below without it falling on you unless you want to cut it in sections as you pry it off, but that's unsafe and difficult when you have to lean the ladder on the house in such a way that the fascia is above and behind you because the soffit sticks out 2 feet or so.
try this:
At the ends and center of gutter, leave a littel slack and tie it to the plumbing pipes sticking out of the roof or whatever
you have, might have to run ropes to the other side of house then into a window and tie to something stable or to a
tree or something. Shouldn't need to cut the rope if you have a big spool and don't wanna cut it for this, just make loop
knots where needed. While on the roof, Saws All out the gutter nails right in the center seems easiest since you can't
pry/pull the tight ones out without damaginf the gutter. Then you can pull the gutter onto the roof and don't kink it.
Basically the same for the fascia, drill holes in them to tie ropes to, then pry them off with a crowbar from a ladder off the ground making sure there's not enough slack that it will fall on your head once freed and make sure it's tied in good if it's so rotted that it might break where it's tied once it falls. Then for the new fascia and gutter, tie them into place with a little slack and install from on the roof or ladder. like drill holes in the fascia and onece it's nailed in elsewhere, cut the rope out the holes and fill with a nail.

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Old 09-27-2012, 11:19 PM   #6
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explain this soffit/fascia/eave frame


I merged your thread not to send members to another thread in the wrong forum. Gary
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Old 09-28-2012, 12:11 AM   #7
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explain this soffit/fascia/eave frame


barklay,

the 2x6 is a subfacia. the purpose of this is to secure the ends of rafters/trusses together so they do not twist. this also allows framing that the gutters can be attached to. nailing gutters into the end grain of rafters/trusses just doesn't get the job done as there is no holding power.

hope this helps
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Old 09-28-2012, 07:29 AM   #8
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explain this soffit/fascia/eave frame


Barklay,

I live in south jersey, but am experiencing a similar gutter issue. I haven't investigated much, as I don't have a ladder tall enough to get up there, but I'll be watching this thread and picking up what I can.
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Old 09-28-2012, 09:01 PM   #9
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explain this soffit/fascia/eave frame


you can rent a ladder/scaffold if you DIY.
Nailed gutters come loose even when the fascia's still usable.
A bolt, nut, washer, and a tube spacer in the gutter is the strongest option if you can acces inside the fascia, or use gutter screws. You can one section at a time slightly change the gutter angle to not go into the old holes and caulk the old ones and not take the whole gutter off if the fascia doesn't need replacement. take care.
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Old 10-19-2012, 07:49 PM   #10
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Here's what I found doing the work. What I wrote was the plan with some misinformation. Don't use pressure treated if it will corrode your gutter/surrounding materials. Paint peels easier from it too. Might not need to tie up old fascia to keep it from falling on you when removing, you more likely won't need to tie up the new fascia first, but longer pieces are less seams. I think tying is better than this:
http://www.doityourself.com/forum/ro...rial-prep.html
Sometimes shingels are bend near the gutter getting in the way of the new fascia. If unbending them breaks them, prop them out with a twig that pops out while the fascia's put in. Pre-start a nail on both your sides before installing the new fascia. If you have an older dryer sub fascia, predrill for nails to not split it or use the lowest suffecient D# nails. When
nails carry weight like this, slightly angle them downward so they don't pull out as easy over time. Preferably don't use screws to carry weight as they are heat treated and can snap unlike more flexible nails. take care.

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