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zantar 04-30-2009 11:08 PM

EPDM roofing questions
 
2 Attachment(s)
Hi all,

I have a 3rd story flat roof I need to replace. I have had some quotes that range from $3800 to $6000. It has about 2 inches of pitch and "other" asphalt like layers. The dimensions are 18' x 13' + a small flat dormer of about 10' x 8' so just over 300 sqft. I'm going to assume this roof has never been torn down. It is a 100 year old home in Toronto. Roof deck is 1" thick planks. I have previously insulated between the rafters and there is an air gap of about an inch under the deck. Enough back story for now :)

So, I'm totally broke and with a badly leaking roof. I did some price crunching and I think I can diy this for a little over $1,500 for materials some gear and waste bin.

I want to rip it down to the deck, then screw 1/2" ply over. Sand plywood (esp edges). I've watched and read about the process by which you adhere the epdm and do the joints with quick seam tape after priming. I've scoured the web and done research. But at the end of the day I lack experience with this. IF I follow the Firestone howtos, am I likely to succeed? Guess I'm looking for some knowledeable people to warn me about common mistakes. And I have a few particular questions too.

One thing is that this is a semi detached house. The roof on my neighbours side is an asphalt based roof, which I understand does NOT work with epdm. My idea is to put a piece of metal flashing along the border. It will need a bend to go from my lower level to step up to hers. Then my epdm up to the inside edge of this step and then the epdm form flash. This would isolate the two types of materials, right? Or maybe I build a small ridge (2x4?) down the length and then run epdm up and over then cap with flashing and caulking esp on her side. Doomed to fail?

Also, the outside edge of the roof, can it just be the epdm folded over the facia a few inches then trimmed with wood or should I follow Firestone guide which says fold over side, nail corner flashing on top then quickprime followed by quickseam flashing (3" on metal flashing 2" on epdm). Finally use roller. So? Am I missing something??

Those are my immediate 2 specific questions, and my general question about the feasability of this as diy..

Dale Chomechko 05-01-2009 10:15 AM

Alternate roofing
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by zantar (Post 267880)
Hi all,

I have a 3rd story flat roof I need to replace. I have had some quotes that range from $3800 to $6000. It has about 2 inches of pitch and "other" asphalt like layers. The dimensions are 18' x 13' + a small flat dormer of about 10' x 8' so just over 300 sqft. I'm going to assume this roof has never been torn down. It is a 100 year old home in Toronto. Roof deck is 1" thick planks. I have previously insulated between the rafters and there is an air gap of about an inch under the deck. Enough back story for now :)

So, I'm totally broke and with a badly leaking roof. I did some price crunching and I think I can diy this for a little over $1,500 for materials some gear and waste bin.

I want to rip it down to the deck, then screw 1/2" ply over. Sand plywood (esp edges). I've watched and read about the process by which you adhere the epdm and do the joints with quick seam tape after priming. I've scoured the web and done research. But at the end of the day I lack experience with this. IF I follow the Firestone howtos, am I likely to succeed? Guess I'm looking for some knowledeable people to warn me about common mistakes. And I have a few particular questions too.

One thing is that this is a semi detached house. The roof on my neighbours side is an asphalt based roof, which I understand does NOT work with epdm. My idea is to put a piece of metal flashing along the border. It will need a bend to go from my lower level to step up to hers. Then my epdm up to the inside edge of this step and then the epdm form flash. This would isolate the two types of materials, right? Or maybe I build a small ridge (2x4?) down the length and then run epdm up and over then cap with flashing and caulking esp on her side. Doomed to fail?

Also, the outside edge of the roof, can it just be the epdm folded over the facia a few inches then trimmed with wood or should I follow Firestone guide which says fold over side, nail corner flashing on top then quickprime followed by quickseam flashing (3" on metal flashing 2" on epdm). Finally use roller. So? Am I missing something??

Those are my immediate 2 specific questions, and my general question about the feasability of this as diy..

Hi Zantar
There are asphalt shingles that will go on a 2/12 slope
Try the Gaf/Elk Timberline or Malarkey
Just make sure you install an Ice & water shield under these products
I live in the Vancouver area & with 150 inches of rain every year I have never had a problem with this installation as well as being a little less complicated for a rookie, it will definetely look better
Dale Chomechko
DC Roofing Inc

zantar 05-01-2009 08:44 PM

Hi,

Just to clarify, because I think I confused things with my first statement about pitch. This is 2 inches of the substance called pitch as opposed to describing a slope. This is an almost flat roof. Not sure the exact ratio.. It does get a tad steeper at the dormer. Still wondering about epdm in this situation. I don't want to get into torches with asphalt membranes and based on what I've read, I think I can do this epdm stuff, but wanted some tips and or warnings from others who have worked with it.

Thanks.

texas115115 05-03-2009 09:51 AM

flat roofs
 
certeenteed offers a flat roof system. That starts with a nail down base ply, then a self ahreading mid ply or go stright to the cap ply if you want.:thumbup:

daylaborer 05-03-2009 08:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by zantar (Post 267880)
IF I follow the Firestone howtos, am I likely to succeed?

To quote a fellow contractor, "If it were any simpler, a monkey could install it."

Go with the metal flashing to isolate the two roof systems and follow Firestone spec for perimeter termination. I would also bring the EPDM over the fascia and behind the gutter so you don't get ice backing up from the gutter and your guttered eaves should have finish metal that will provide positive runoff into the gutter as opposed to behind.

As for compatability of EPDM and asphalt systems, the only time you'll have a problem is if you go slopping asphalt coatings and cements onto the EPDM. You should be OK.


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