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Old 10-31-2011, 11:18 PM   #1
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Duntex Roof Remove and Reinstall Advice?


I've got a S barrel duntex concrete tile roof that is about 30 yrs old.
I plan on removing the tile carefully, removing the underlayment and renailing the plywood to currunt Fl Codes of 6" OC. and then put a layer of TU plus underlayment and polyfoam one to reset the tile.

Questions.
Is it ok to reuse my drip edge and penetration boots, they seem to all be working well and in good shape.

I'm using an open valley system and have some questions about what is the best method to reinstall the new valley?

I've never done a roof before, but have hired someone to assist me, I just want to make sure, they know what they are doing. So if someone could give the best method of doing this, I'd appreciate it.

I wanted to do a section of it at a time, he seems to think it would be better to remove everything off the roof and then reinstall everything at once, this seems really labor intensive to me with lots of walking, lifting, etc. times 2 and considering we are using ladders to haul all this up and down, it makes it much harder.

Thoughts?
I will post some pictures of my roof but on laptop right now. Will add later. BTW I'm in tampa bay area.

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Old 11-01-2011, 06:46 AM   #2
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Duntex Roof Remove and Reinstall Advice?


The drip edge might be ok to re-use, but I'd replace all other flashings.

When we do a tile remove/relay, we set scaffolding at the roof edge and load the tile on the scaffold, rather than packing it down and then back up. Might be worth the rental.

Start on the most visible side and work to the least visible. That way, if you break any, the replacements end up on the least visible area.

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Old 11-01-2011, 08:40 PM   #3
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Duntex Roof Remove and Reinstall Advice?


Thats a good idea about the Scaffold, might be worthwhile.
I'm pressure washing them now, figured its better to break one now, rather not get on the new roof anymore than I need to once its completed.

here's what I'm looking at.
This is my valley now. Not a great pic.






My trim edges may be a challenge to find.


Just my roof overall, in all its mildewed concrete glory.


Right now, its unpainted concrete, people have suggested many times, to paint it so it will look pretty etc. But my problem with that is, it only looks pretty for about 2-3 years then it looks like crap because the mold will show up even worse and on top of that, I'll have paint peeling. But since I am looking at redoing it, I'm considering using a concrete stain and just put a touch of color on it. Perhaps a light gray or a light beige or something like that. I'm considering buying a color darker than I want and diluting it down heavily like a 5/1 ratio and spraying it on with a garden sprayer and then just mop up the excess. Anyone have any experience using concrete stain on these old concrete tiles? I realize its probably going to fade quite a bit since its just a topical stain but at least it wont flake like paint would. Thoughts?

Last edited by crackdaddy; 11-01-2011 at 08:46 PM.
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Old 11-01-2011, 08:43 PM   #4
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Duntex Roof Remove and Reinstall Advice?


Just wondering, What do you think about taking the tile off one side and just stacking it on the other side and doing one side at a time? That was my original plan, but was a bit concerned about the weight.
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Old 11-13-2011, 08:54 AM   #5
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Argh.. overwhelmed.

Have the roof stripped and ready to roll, but getting a lot of conflicting advice on what's the best way to do something. I've talked to 3 different roofers and they all suggested different ways to do something.

One roofer says we should put 30# felt under our tu plus underlayment and double nail the roof with new ring shank nails because that's the way they always do it. ( my deck was already nailed down to 6" oc originally in 78)
and he also suggested using a closed valley and metal birdstop.

Another roofer says, the deck should be fine the way it is, if its 6" oc its up to code since its existing construction, if we were replacing new wood, what the above roofer said would apply (his words). He says the underlayment should be put directly on the deck as it is almost impossible to pull off, the problem with the above way is, it makes it easier to pull off, to replace, but also makes it easier for a hurricane to rip all my water barrior off.
He also says to do an open valley and use foam birdstops as he says they are easier to clean and a closed valley traps leaves and stuff under it and will back up water eventually or divert off the valley..

And lastly because I'm in St. Petersburg, they now require a GC/ an engineer, architect, or FS 468 buidling inspector to sign an affidavit off on the job for
the deck nailing and secondary water barrier. The few guy I've spoke to said they don't sign off on other peoples work. Although I've pulled permits and am looking to surpass code if can. Anyone know anyone that will come out and review my work and sign off on it? I'm sure its not free, but shouldn't be too expensive.

I want to get my roll roofing on, and am considering just taking pictures as I go along, doing this myself, I have to try to knock out as much as I can as I can get some help. So I'm not sure I can wait for the GC to show, especially since I can't find one.

Help!!?? I'm overwhelmed and undecided.
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Old 11-13-2011, 09:08 AM   #6
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Duntex Roof Remove and Reinstall Advice?


I know the feeling, we're deciding things too.

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Old 11-13-2011, 09:27 AM   #7
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Duntex Roof Remove and Reinstall Advice?


Quote:
Originally Posted by crackdaddy View Post
Just wondering, What do you think about taking the tile off one side and just stacking it on the other side and doing one side at a time? That was my original plan, but was a bit concerned about the weight.
No - don't do that.
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Old 11-13-2011, 09:30 AM   #8
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Duntex Roof Remove and Reinstall Advice?


Quote:
Originally Posted by crackdaddy View Post
Argh.. overwhelmed.

Have the roof stripped and ready to roll, but getting a lot of conflicting advice on what's the best way to do something. I've talked to 3 different roofers and they all suggested different ways to do something.

One roofer says we should put 30# felt under our tu plus underlayment and double nail the roof with new ring shank nails because that's the way they always do it. ( my deck was already nailed down to 6" oc originally in 78)
and he also suggested using a closed valley and metal birdstop.

Another roofer says, the deck should be fine the way it is, if its 6" oc its up to code since its existing construction, if we were replacing new wood, what the above roofer said would apply (his words). He says the underlayment should be put directly on the deck as it is almost impossible to pull off, the problem with the above way is, it makes it easier to pull off, to replace, but also makes it easier for a hurricane to rip all my water barrior off.
He also says to do an open valley and use foam birdstops as he says they are easier to clean and a closed valley traps leaves and stuff under it and will back up water eventually or divert off the valley..

And lastly because I'm in St. Petersburg, they now require a GC/ an engineer, architect, or FS 468 buidling inspector to sign an affidavit off on the job for
the deck nailing and secondary water barrier. The few guy I've spoke to said they don't sign off on other peoples work. Although I've pulled permits and am looking to surpass code if can. Anyone know anyone that will come out and review my work and sign off on it? I'm sure its not free, but shouldn't be too expensive.

I want to get my roll roofing on, and am considering just taking pictures as I go along, doing this myself, I have to try to knock out as much as I can as I can get some help. So I'm not sure I can wait for the GC to show, especially since I can't find one.

Help!!?? I'm overwhelmed and undecided.
Put the peel & stick membrane on the sheathing. Roofer #2 is right about that.

I like open valleys, but not foam bird blocks.

Can't answer the location specific code questions. Sorry.
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Old 11-13-2011, 09:54 AM   #9
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Duntex Roof Remove and Reinstall Advice?


The requirement for third-party certifications can be a big hassle - you might try asking a local code official if they are aware of an appropriate party to come out and bless a DYI job.
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Old 11-14-2011, 10:12 PM   #10
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Duntex Roof Remove and Reinstall Advice?


I'm thinking old school.

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/62/sam0187h.jpg/
Instead of buying hard to find and expensive rake caps, I'm thinking just have them mud the sides, and while they are at it, have them mud and trim out the open valleys, point the ridge cap and point the bird stops. If they need to make mud, they might as well make enough to use it for everything.

Most guys, prefer to use a closed valley (lazy and frankly kinda inefficient and a freaking leaf catchall) and just use the metal for everything else. Which i think looks cheap as can be, but oddly enough its not, its quite expensive.

Now the key is, are they going to charge me so much for doing it this way, that it negates any savings from not going out and buying all the finished pieces?

Gonna find out tomorrow, I have a couple different tile guys coming by.
Lets hope they show up. I've had so many no shows its not funny.


Last edited by crackdaddy; 11-14-2011 at 10:20 PM.
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