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-   -   Drip Edge..Which size? (http://www.diychatroom.com/f9/drip-edge-size-160715/)

RM575 10-21-2012 12:32 PM

Drip Edge..Which size?
 
Hi,
I'm building a detached workshop, 11' x 15' with a hip roof 4:12 pitch. I have 15/32, 5 ply as decking, 16" oc. I have a 2 x 6 fascia and plan to have seamless rain gutter installed.

I noticed the different widths in drip edges, 1.5", 2" and 3" at Lowes.

Is there a rule or preference in which width to install?

Also, at the corners, is there any special cut to make? I was thinking of one cut on top and then wrap the corner with the top cut scissoring closed. Do these get sealed?

Grumpy 10-22-2012 02:34 PM

You don't want drip edge, you want gutter apron, the two are not the same. Drip edge somewhat resembles a T, while gutter apron resembles an inverted L. 1.5" minimum on the face, but it really depends on how far you intend to slope the gutter. The standard stuff we buy is 2" face, 3" beneath the roof. Minimum slope would be 1/4" per 10'. Sometimes we have to custom bend out gutter apron if it's a very long run of gutter or we need to put on an excessive slope.


Special cut in the flashing? What you described is generally how we make our corner cuts, just make sure it sits flat and doesn't lift up the roofing material.

joecaption 10-22-2012 02:41 PM

Since it's a hip roof there's not going to be any drip edge on the fashia so the 1-1/2 will be fine.
I just make a straight cut on the part that shows and bend the stip over the roof, mark it so the higher side just over laps the lower cut and cut it again at an angle.

RM575 10-22-2012 03:24 PM

Grumpy and Joe:
Thanks for the reply. I just picked up my materials from a roofing supply company. They sold me 2"x2" galv metal roof edge after I described my roof structure to them. It looks just like Grumpy described, an inverted L.

I'm roofing today because it's going to rain soon.
Thanks again.

joecaption 10-22-2012 04:12 PM

May be to late now but when I do a gambrel roof I treat it like the two areas are two roofs so the last row of shingles does not just get bent over the change in angle.
I lay the low side first and end the shingles right at the angle. I then install a row of drip cap then install a starter strip of shigles and shingle up from there.
You should also install the lower shingles with more nails or there just going to start sliding down the roof.

RM575 10-22-2012 05:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by joecaption (Post 1035839)
May be to late now but when I do a gambrel roof I treat it like the two areas are two roofs so the last row of shingles does not just get bent over the change in angle.
I lay the low side first and end the shingles right at the angle. I then install a row of drip cap then install a starter strip of shigles and shingle up from there.
You should also install the lower shingles with more nails or there just going to start sliding down the roof.


Joe,
I bought two rolls of Inovate Rapid Starter 9"x36". So, this will go on after the felt. The edge metal will go on before the felt. The only problem is, I don't see any adhesive (tar spots or stripes) on the starter roll. One side is granulated and the other side is smooth.

Grumpy 10-22-2012 09:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by joecaption (Post 1035839)
May be to late now but when I do a gambrel roof I treat it like the two areas are two roofs so the last row of shingles does not just get bent over the change in angle.
I lay the low side first and end the shingles right at the angle. I then install a row of drip cap then install a starter strip of shigles and shingle up from there.
You should also install the lower shingles with more nails or there just going to start sliding down the roof.


Yes this is very important, but we bend a custom inverted apron flashing type detail. If I find a pic I will post.

There couldn't be adhesive on the roll or you'd never get the roll un stuck.

RM575 10-22-2012 10:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Grumpy (Post 1036010)
Yes this is very important, but we bend a custom inverted apron flashing type detail. If I find a pic I will post.

There couldn't be adhesive on the roll or you'd never get the roll un stuck.


Grumpy..I learned that the roll goes down after the felt and gets nailed. The wind is kinda strong at times and I like to make sure the first layer of shingles at the eaves don't lift up. Should I put dabs of adhesive on the starter before I put down the 1st layer?

I intalled some of the metal roof edge today and I noticed the metal is not real tight up against the fascia where it comes close to the corners. There is about 1/16 gap only at the corners. The straight runs hug the fascia tightly. I tried to make the corner bend a sharp 90 degree using blocks of wood before I installed it on the roof.


I don't think this will harm anything because the rain gutters will cover the fascia board.

Grumpy 10-23-2012 01:44 PM

I use CertainTeed swift start starters with pre applied adhesives. The adhesive is important for the wind uplift. I also install the starters as a bleeder course up my gables/rakes. If there is no adhesive I would recommend the application of quarter sized dallops of approved roofing cement or polyurethane sealant. Or just return the chit starter and buy (or cut) your own.

RM575 10-23-2012 03:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Grumpy (Post 1036439)
I use CertainTeed swift start starters with pre applied adhesives. The adhesive is important for the wind uplift. I also install the starters as a bleeder course up my gables/rakes. If there is no adhesive I would recommend the application of quarter sized dallops of approved roofing cement or polyurethane sealant. Or just return the chit starter and buy (or cut) your own.


Thanks. I think I'll just do the dallops of roofing cement. That will be fine.

How important is it for the metal at the corners to fit real sharp and tight? I can't seem to put a crisp, sharp bend and have about a 1/16 of a gap at the corners.

Grumpy 10-23-2012 04:00 PM

11/6" gap should be fine. If you're really concerned put some caulk up in there and screw it. If the gutter isn't already installed and the flashing is too tight, good luck sliding the gutter up in the corner!

RM575 10-23-2012 07:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Grumpy (Post 1036538)
11/6" gap should be fine. If you're really concerned put some caulk up in there and screw it. If the gutter isn't already installed and the flashing is too tight, good luck sliding the gutter up in the corner!


Then I think it is fine the way it is, gap and all.

I'm installing a roof (attic) vent, not a ridge, and I cut the opening in the roof deck. I see, in a lot of youtube videos, where they are installing these on completed roof systems and they slide the top flange under a course of shingles. It looks like the top flange rests on top of the felt. But, I can't find any videos where they install on new, clean roof decks.

1. On new roofs, are these flashed just like windows, with the top flange under the felt and the bottom flange on top of the felt?

bcdemon 10-24-2012 08:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RM575 (Post 1036707)
1. On new roofs, are these flashed just like windows, with the top flange under the felt and the bottom flange on top of the felt?

When I install box vents, the entire flange is on top of the felt.

RM575 10-24-2012 10:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bcdemon (Post 1036939)
When I install box vents, the entire flange is on top of the felt.


Thanks. That makes sense and that's what I'll do. I think I'll use some caulking around the top and sides of the flange too.


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