DIY Home Improvement Forum banner

Is drip edge necessary?

7K views 8 replies 6 participants last post by  the roofing god 
#1 ·
Hi,

I'm building a 15 x 26 shed/studio with an 8/12 roof pitch. I've got 2-foot gable ends and similar eave overhangs.

Would you recommend using drip edge on eaves and rakes? I've gotten a number of estimates - some say use it, others don't.

I'm planning on water and ice shield on the edges and ridge, 15 or 30 lb. felt, 30-year architectural shingles and ShingleVent II. About half of the building will be heated/cooled jewelers studio.

Would you use 15 lb. or 30 lb. felt or something else?

Thanks
 
#2 ·
Why not? I mean what's it going to hurt? IMHO it's never wort the risk of having water destroy the edge of the sheathing for a few bucks. 15# or 30#...I see no advantage of using 15#, I only use 30#...the savings aren't enough to off set is lack of durability.
 
#3 ·
Hi,

I'm building a 15 x 26 shed/studio with an 8/12 roof pitch. I've got 2-foot gable ends and similar eave overhangs.

Would you recommend using drip edge on eaves and rakes? I've gotten a number of estimates - some say use it, others don't.

I'm planning on water and ice shield on the edges and ridge, 15 or 30 lb. felt, 30-year architectural shingles and ShingleVent II. About half of the building will be heated/cooled jewelers studio.

Would you use 15 lb. or 30 lb. felt or something else?

Thanks
Yes, Gutter Apron Style Drip Edge on the Eave Edges and O.D.E. Overhanging Drip Edge Style on the Gable/Rake Edges.

I choose 30# felt over 15# felt

What Intake Ventilation have you been getting advise about? That is equally as important as the Exhaust Ventilation.

Ed
 
#4 ·
I was going to use continuous soffit venting on the eaves.

I got a bid from a roofing company (Maryland - near Annapolis) for a little over $2350 with drip edge and water & ice. Then they came back and told me they had a math error and it would be $900 more. Would you go with a company like that? They were highly rated on Angie's List.

I was thinking of shingling it myself or even doing a metal roof but I'm a little leary of the 8/12 pitch. I've built the whole thing myself so far - just have a few sheets of plywood left on the roof sheathing. What do you think - is the pitch too much? How would I secure myself?

Thanks
 
#5 ·
8/12 shouldnt be too much of a problem. I'm doing my roof with a buddy(actual roofer). My roof is 12/12 and I move about as quick as a slug but it is doable. we've knocked out about 30 of the 75 squares in a week.
Im not built for roofing and I'm starting to get the hang of it. If I can handle it i have no doubt most can :)

 
#8 ·
you went this far,,,buy ya some roof scaffolding/(like the nice pic of the half done mansion)and do it yourself,you will always be thankful its done right. No matter how I speced a roof job,,,find out later they didnt follow spec,,,so do it RIGHT yourself!! IF they cant add,,,they for sure cant roof!!! It wont be that much more than what you have already done!! My half penny worth!!-d-
 
#9 ·
if you`re putting ice+water shield at rakes,it gets capped with drip edge(properly),at the gutter eave :don`t use drip edge,but use a rt angle flashing(I use 3x3)bent to roof pitch,to install behind the gutter on the roof edge,and seal the gutter to it----check the guys references-anyone can make a mistake on the math once,if he`d said I made a mistake it`s 900.00$ less,you`d be jumping for it
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top