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Old 09-05-2008, 09:08 PM   #1
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Drip edge?


When I did my soffits and fascia on my gable roofed garage, I installed soffits, fascia, and "L" trim(piece that goes underneath the shingles and holds the fascia) on the peaks. I was told to leave these trim pieces off where the eavestroughs would go as they weren't necessary. I just had my eaves professionally installed but now I can still see the sheathing between the shingles and the fascia as they didn't butt the eaves right up to the shingles, they properly angled them. At this point, what is my best option to cover the sheathing? The installer said not to worry about it as the shingles overhang enough that water will not touch the exposed sheathing but I don't like the look.

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Old 09-05-2008, 09:24 PM   #2
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Drip edge?


This link basically shows my scenario and what they've developed, wonder how hard it'll be to find something like this in a hardware store? Thoughts?

http://www.improvementscatalog.com/h...e-gutters.html

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Old 09-05-2008, 10:11 PM   #3
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Drip edge?


Quote:
Originally Posted by n0c7 View Post

I just had my eaves professionally installed but now I can still see the sheathing between the shingles and the fascia as they didn't butt the eaves right up to the shingles, they properly angled them.

At this point, what is my best option to cover the sheathing? The installer said not to worry about it as the shingles overhang enough that water will not touch the exposed sheathing but I don't like the look.
The Gutter Apron Style of eave drip edge flashing can gently be slid into position Under the bottom course of starter and field shingles, depending on how low the installer nailed the starter course of shingles.

It comes in typical 10 foot sections and is best installed working from underneath in your circumstance, because if you were to be on the roof leaning over the edge, it would be very unfortunate to lean too far and fall off the roof.

Once you have the metal snugged in as far as it needs to go, so that the bottom flange is butted tight to the fascia and back side of the gutter trough, you will need to "Gently" lift up the shingles and nail the metal in place. Each successive piece should overlap the previously installed section by a minimum of 3", but not too much more than that.

The exposed edges of the plywood decking most certainly WILL wick moisturee and continue to absorb it and swell and eventually delaminate. Take care of the problem in a timely fashion.

Set up 2 A-Frame ladders and spread a scaffold walk plank, ( Double 2" x 10"s or 12's will suffice), and learn how to walk on the boards carefully.

Safety, Safety, Safety. Remember that foremost.

Here is a link I just looked up for you with photos of the Right kind of Gutter Apron Drip Edge and the Rake Edge version, which many people misuse instead of the proper style.

http://www.gutterstandards.com/flashing.html

Ed

Last edited by Ed the Roofer; 09-06-2008 at 12:52 PM.
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Old 09-06-2008, 12:44 AM   #4
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Drip edge?


Thanks Ed. We shingled the roof so there should be enough room to lift up from what I remember. Should I try and put it underneath the felt paper or on top of it? Might be tricky to put it under the paper as I remember stapling it close to the fascia edge. Also, the fascia and new eaves are a custom blue color and its been hell to find and match it. Should I be too concerned with color matching with this or should I just head to the hardware store and grab some white stuff?(siding is white)

We built the garage so I'm pretty comfortable with working on it, haven't fallen off of the roof yet... but there is always a first. I've fallen off a step ladder once working on it however.
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Old 09-23-2008, 01:37 PM   #5
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Drip edge?


Ed, what are the disadvantages and misuses of the drip edge style?
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Old 09-23-2008, 11:00 PM   #6
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Drip edge?


Also, I was able to accomplish this but it was a huge PITA. Only 2.5 hours.

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