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Old 08-08-2007, 08:14 AM   #16
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DIY roof replacement questions


OK, just to beat this horse a little more....if I install Smart Vent, they call for the product to be even with the gutter apron. Then, placing the I&W over the top of that.

Now, I can't fold the I&W over onto the fascia since that will block the vents.
  • Should I run a strip under the smart vent?
  • Should I sandwich the Smart Vent, a layer under and a layer over?
Sorry, but these questions aren't answered in the application instructions very well. It seems adding I&W over the top to be somewhat dumb. Thinking like water, I would think that would be an easy place to crawl up...the space between the smart vent and the roof deck. Having the I&W fold down onto the fascia would make a nice seal to prevent that.

Thanks

Tony

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Old 08-08-2007, 08:26 AM   #17
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The fold over the fascia behind a gutter that is installed is preventative medicine for the gutter freezing and possibly backing up.

The Ice and Water Shield on the top of the Smart Vent is for the protection against how ice dams occur and back up under the shingle courses upon being blocked by the solid block of frozen ice located over the cooler soffit overhangs but not being frozen over the heated interior portions of the home.

Ed
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Old 08-08-2007, 08:41 AM   #18
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OK, so how do you install the smart vent, I&W and the gutter apron all together?

I would do it this way based on a blending of what I've heard so far:
  1. I&W strip from just below the 1" smart vent opening leaving a 2" overhang which gets folded back onto fascia
  2. gutter apron
  3. 3" strip sealing the gutter apron top edge to the I&W below
  4. smart vent
  5. I&W on top of smart vent and as would normally be run to at least 24" inside the heated wall
Does that sound proper?

One final thing, since the smart vent is installed flush, I assume I overhang the shingles as recommended just as if the smart vent was part of the sheathing...in other words, like it was not even there. Is that correct?

Last edited by FatAugie; 08-08-2007 at 08:43 AM.
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Old 08-08-2007, 08:47 AM   #19
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Everything you stated is on the high end of being correct.

If you are in a severe winter ice-damming climate, then go through the additional stripping in measures you listed for the Ice and Water Shield specifications regarding the fascia overhang and then stripping in the gutter apron drip edge.

Ues the Smart Vent gets installed flush to the eave edge and the shingle should have their proper amount of suggested overhang provided for when you install the 1st course of shingles.

Ed
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Old 08-08-2007, 08:52 AM   #20
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Outstanding, thanks Ed!
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Old 08-08-2007, 09:47 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed the Roofer View Post
I immediately think, jack-leg gypsy contractor or ill advised home owner every time I see the ODE at the eave edge.

Plus, the Gutter Apron extends down about a 1/4 to 1/2 inch farther down for a better seal into an intended gutter trough.

Ed
Ed,
Thanks for clarifying this for me. I've seen a lot of roofs with ODE installed on the eaves. I'm not a roofer, and I don't plan on doing my own roof anytime soon. I did a Google search and found this. Is this what you're saying is the WRONG place for ODE? Just trying to be an educated consumer. Thanks.
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Old 08-08-2007, 10:33 AM   #22
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Although many people, some roofing contractors included, use the types of ODE you linked to in that catalogue, the inherent problem with any metal to be used along the eave edge of a sloped roof transitions, is that the ODE metals depicted are all bent at a 90* bend at the fascia to decking transition point.

The true Gutter Apron drip edge flashing has a slight angled bend already pre-formed in the sheet metal flashing which enables both the fascia covering and the decking covering portions to lie flat and fit snuggly to those two structures.

If you were to install a sheet metal with a pre-formed 90* bend along the same location, it may seem as if it will fit and work, but the natural tendency of the tension of the sheet metal will be to try to remain at the pre-formed 90* angle. The top portion of the ODE will attempt to lift up creating a slight hollow gap under thesheet metral and the decking/fascia board along the eave edge. This can be compensated for by installing additional nails and making sure the nails are as close to the fascia board as possible, but why go through this extra work to fix something that would not need to be fixed if you had just chosen the proper style of sheet metal edging in the first place?

Ed

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Old 08-08-2007, 10:55 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed the Roofer View Post
...why go througf this extra work to fix something that would not need to be fixed if you had just chosen the proper style of sheet metal edging in the first place?

eD
Agreed. I also found a link that shows the gutter apron you described earlier. This makes perfect sense. I've seen guys take the ODE and bend it to fit the pitch of the roof where it covers the fascia. But if not bent exactly right, it looks sloppy because it's not flush to the fascia. Thanks for the clarification, Ed. Much appreciated.

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