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-   -   DIY Roof PICS for your enjoyment (http://www.diychatroom.com/f9/diy-roof-pics-your-enjoyment-81013/)

amdspitfire 09-09-2010 10:10 PM

DIY Roof PICS for your enjoyment
 
What a difficult demanding job, I rather do anything else on a house.

Some mid progress pics:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...f/Image098.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...f/Image099.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...f/Image100.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...f/Image101.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...f/Image104.jpg

Tom Struble 09-09-2010 10:24 PM

looking good :thumbsup:you are nailing the roof sheathing thru the strapping and into the rafters right?

federer 09-10-2010 01:08 AM

wow good stuff. thanks for sharing. wish i was that handy

OldNBroken 09-10-2010 09:20 AM

Bah, no need to hit the rafters as long as the existing skip sheeting is secured well.
At least the roofdeck looks clean and straight for the age of the bldg. Nice neat work you're doing there. Only thing I hate seeing is that debris landing on the ground. That just makes your job three times harder. If you can at all help it, get it straight into your truck/trailer/container directly from the roof. Makes the job considerably "easier".

federer 09-10-2010 12:00 PM

dont they have those construction debris bags things thats like a dumpster but its a giant plastic bag that you can rent?

Gary in WA 09-11-2010 12:19 AM

Use a roofing shovel to get under the shakes and paper, roll it up with a helper into a "sod roll" about 7-8' long, section cut it with shovel, heave it down into dumpster. No handling of individual shakes other than around vents.
Add a valley jack rafter in that 3' span, at the first longest bottom one missing. Cut back the ridge vent with baffle now for your passive venting system: http://files.buildsite.com/dbderived...rived20936.pdf

http://www.airvent.com/homeowner/pro...it-specs.shtml

Imperative to leave the required 1/8" gap between osb sheets, otherwise run the saw to rip it now: http://osbguide.tecotested.com/pdfs/en/el812.pdf


Gary

Gary in WA 09-11-2010 12:37 PM

Just an added thought as it was late for me last night...
"Bah, no need to hit the rafters as long as the existing skip sheeting is secured well." ----- you would think that would be true. When the house was framed the Codes for shear were mild on a roof. Ply or osb sheathing under skip sheathing was not required as it is today in most areas. The minimum 8d nails on the 1x4 at 2 per rafter was usually not enforced. I see 1-2-1-2 and 2-1-2-1 in your nailing pattern, add some as OldNbroken said. The osb needs minimum 6d nails into the rafters at least 6/12" on center to meet today's Code. This 2" nail needs to be secured in full wood, not air for the remainer of length- 3/4", or it will not get the required withdrawl it needs for shear as tomstuble said. Especially in the seismic zone you are in. The tail overhang blocking need a row as each gable for building shear flow. Be careful up there!

Gary

federer 09-14-2010 01:11 AM

wow i have no clue what you are talking about lol

Grumpy 09-14-2010 07:03 AM

I wouldn't have piled up the garbage along the fence like that and I wouldn't have use OSB.

I saved the picture of the trash to show future customers what we wouldn't be doing.

amdspitfire 09-14-2010 02:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tomstruble (Post 498652)
looking good :thumbsup:you are nailing the roof sheathing thru the strapping and into the rafters right?

My edges weren't originally going through rafters but always went through the strapping :(.. and I didn't for the garage that's visible from underneath! Should I cut the osb and redo the rows so the edges land on the rafter?

As I progressed I got all my edges on the rafters even if I had to cut the osb slightly.

Quote:

Originally Posted by OldNBroken (Post 498806)
Bah, no need to hit the rafters as long as the existing skip sheeting is secured well.
At least the roofdeck looks clean and straight for the age of the bldg. Nice neat work you're doing there. Only thing I hate seeing is that debris landing on the ground. That just makes your job three times harder. If you can at all help it, get it straight into your truck/trailer/container directly from the roof. Makes the job considerably "easier".

Yah, almost 50yr old house, it's mostly in decent condition. I started the job on a whim and had what I thought was plenty of room on the side of the house. Kept dumping till I could walk off the roof :laughing:.

Quote:

Originally Posted by federer (Post 498892)
dont they have those construction debris bags things thats like a dumpster but its a giant plastic bag that you can rent?

Ended up getting a huge 43cu yard debris box, filled it to the brink. Luckily the garbage ppl loaded the crap for me for just $550 including box/removal.

Quote:

Originally Posted by GBR in WA (Post 499236)
Use a roofing shovel to get under the shakes and paper, roll it up with a helper into a "sod roll" about 7-8' long, section cut it with shovel, heave it down into dumpster. No handling of individual shakes other than around vents.
Add a valley jack rafter in that 3' span, at the first longest bottom one missing. Cut back the ridge vent with baffle now for your passive venting system: http://files.buildsite.com/dbderived...rived20936.pdf

http://www.airvent.com/homeowner/pro...it-specs.shtml

Imperative to leave the required 1/8" gap between osb sheets, otherwise run the saw to rip it now: http://osbguide.tecotested.com/pdfs/en/el812.pdf


Gary

Good links, thanks. I wasn't leaving the gap for the ridge vent originally but did midway through. Got to cut some places now. When it's your first time doing it, you learn a lot of things as you progress.

Quote:

Originally Posted by GBR in WA (Post 499410)
Just an added thought as it was late for me last night...
"Bah, no need to hit the rafters as long as the existing skip sheeting is secured well." ----- you would think that would be true. When the house was framed the Codes for shear were mild on a roof. Ply or osb sheathing under skip sheathing was not required as it is today in most areas. The minimum 8d nails on the 1x4 at 2 per rafter was usually not enforced. I see 1-2-1-2 and 2-1-2-1 in your nailing pattern, add some as OldNbroken said. The osb needs minimum 6d nails into the rafters at least 6/12" on center to meet today's Code. This 2" nail needs to be secured in full wood, not air for the remainer of length- 3/4", or it will not get the required withdrawl it needs for shear as tomstuble said. Especially in the seismic zone you are in. The tail overhang blocking need a row as each gable for building shear flow. Be careful up there!

Gary

Making sure I got the 2 nails per rafter on the 1x4's, and adding some so the edge of the osb always land on them.


Already had an accident, stepped wrong, went through the slats past my knee. My luck there was a nail sticking out right there too. Pretty little nail hole in my thigh plus my legs is still stiff/sore couple days later.


Quote:

Originally Posted by Grumpy (Post 500855)
I wouldn't have piled up the garbage along the fence like that and I wouldn't have use OSB.

I saved the picture of the trash to show future customers what we wouldn't be doing.

Plywood instead of OSB?

Hahahaha :thumbup:


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