concrete s-tile roof re-build questions
My home was built in 1983 and has an S concrete tiles. The underlayment appears to be 15 pound paper and is original from the builder. Although we have no leaks, I can see that the paper has become brittle and it turning brown in some places, thus I think that the underlayment has reached the end of its life. I have done a couple of single roofs in my life and I have repaired others people tile roofs in the past. I will be doing all the roofing myself and want to do a better than standard re-roof. Lucky for me, the roof is in 4 major sections, so i can do a section at a time. My plan is to remove and stack the tiles, remove the battens that hold the tiles back edge and then remove the roofing felt. I will replace any deck plywood that looks bad or is soft.
So here are my ideas/questions.
1. I would like to use a self-adhesive modified bitumen underlayment. What should I be looking for as far as thickness???
2. What should I be looking for as far as the layer on top? I have read about non slip woven and also no layer. My concern is not UV exposure while I work, rather the concern is dust/dirt build up under the tiles that will create mud when it rains, if there is any water that gets by the tiles.
3. The attics in phoenix are very hot, as are the roof tiles. what am I looking for as far as heatproof membrane and self-adhesive.
4. Back nailing I think will need to be done at the top edges of the underlayment, should I also think about nailing the whole body of the underlayment. The concerns i have are the additional penetrations. The roof is a 12-4 pitch
5. I will be adding additional fasteners to the plywood roof deck, as some of the nails appear to have worked loose over the last 30 years. Would nails or screws be best, given that the plywood is sound.
6. What surface prep should be done to the plywood decking? I have read that all metal (drip edges etc) need to be coated with an asphalt primer. would the entire decking benefit from an an primer coat so that the self-adhesive will hold better?
7. Should I use battens that have some way of allowing water underneath in case some water gets past the tiles? or just use the old school 1x2's.
8. screws or nails for the battens attachment to the deck. I suspect nails, as screws might tear up the underlayment as the screws twist in on installation.
Thanks in advance for any advice!!! Oh and where is the best place to buy asprin, as I am sure my non-roofer, diy’er back will be sore when this is all done!!!!
We call that a relay, we do one a month.
1. My preference would be two layers of type II.
2. Top layer ? the norm here is two layers of type II and thats it.
3. Heat proof membrane is above my paygrade. Did you mean radiant barrier?
4. With the heat you get there the underlayement will seal around the nails. Id be more concerned about the exposure time doing the solo.
5. Nails or screws are fine, most folks use nails in a gun for speed.
6. Thats news to me, i only prime the dripedge on low slope for Mod Bit application.
7. The 1x2 are fine but there other options if you wish to spend more $. A vented batten in lieu of the 1x2 wood batten. Cor-a-vent makes it.
8. Either would work, nails are the standard though for fastening the battens.
#2... top layer meant like a built in covering.. I got a sample of a self-adhesive mod bit that had a fuzzy type layer on top. The material was oked for 90 day exposure.. but I was worried about the fuzzy stuff collecting dust and dirt and then holding it. as opposed to a non- covered self-adhesive mod bit with no top layer attached to it.
#3 ... Phx gets hot, up to 120 degrees. The roof and attic get a lot hotter. my concern is the buckling that can happen in repeated cycles causeing the underlayment to crack/tear. so I was asking whats the best for hot hot HOT roofs.
thanks for the reply!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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