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Old 04-23-2013, 12:37 PM   #31
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Hi Jagans - Thanks very much for that info but you lost me at "Counter flashing" I know what flashing is on a standard shingle type.

Also do you mean a lift as in cherry picker type? That's what I was speaking of due to the dome shape you can only walk ther first row of triangles and even then every other one is a little steeper and I'm playing spiderman crossing those

Trying to get a 2nd estimate, thanks again for your input on fair price.
Edward
Cold and wet in Maine

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Old 04-23-2013, 12:39 PM   #32
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Bobinphx - I've thought about fiberglass cloth and epoxy. I've been building/repairing sailboats for many years and have wetted out hundreds of yards of cloth. Man what a mess and the thought of about 1100sqft Plus it's a pain to do on anything but horizontal surface, point up Off horizonal it's usually a multi wet out. So for me it's no DIY project.
Did you DIY or hire the work? What was the cost if you don't mind?

Does anyone have experience with the SPF roofing, i.e. DIY? Where did you buy the tools and foam? For this Dome I'd need to rent a lifter for the application. Thanks for any inputs.
Edward
I did it myself. I put in all new decking (3/4 inch), new cant strips, new scuppers. I didnt have any issue with the vertical installation. I first used a very thinned resin mix to seal the roof deck. Then glass and resin. Then another layer of glass and resin, then gel coat. I took a week off to do the whole thing,,, by myself. It was all really easy, except for the odor... I wore a good respirator so for me it was not bad... but the wife left the house when I was using resin. as for cost... the garage is 25 by 25 so 625 sq feet, not counting the parapets.. total cost was 1000 dollars... well below the 1700 to 3000 for any other "real" roofing options... the white gelcoat does keep the garage cool, but when it does rain, its noisy compaired to the 3 layers of asphalt that was there. Of course the entire roof is much lighter weight then the old one!!!!
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Old 04-23-2013, 07:29 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by Edward50 View Post
Hi Jagans - Thanks very much for that info but you lost me at "Counter flashing" I know what flashing is on a standard shingle type.

Also do you mean a lift as in cherry picker type? That's what I was speaking of due to the dome shape you can only walk ther first row of triangles and even then every other one is a little steeper and I'm playing spiderman crossing those

Trying to get a 2nd estimate, thanks again for your input on fair price.
Edward
Cold and wet in Maine
Counter Flashing to cover down over base flashing on low slope roofs. Figure C is probably most appropriate for your application.
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Old 04-25-2013, 01:19 PM   #34
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I've spoken to a couple installers and one is telling me the protective UV paint "Gaco Flex S-20" would perform the job of sealing hair line cracks and the SPF is not needed if the insulating value is not needed. We already have 9inchs of the expanded something something foam (white beer cooler foam) so I don't really need more insulation. Call me frugal
So does anyone have experience with the silicone "super" paint?? I'm going to speak with the regional rep Monday, what smart questions should I ask??
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Edward
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Old 04-25-2013, 01:25 PM   #35
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Just for ref here is our house, ALL ROOF
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Old 04-25-2013, 03:08 PM   #36
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where is the EPS located on your house? Frankly I dont really get what you have there. I was expecting to see concrete. One of the major features of PUF is to retard movement due to thermal change. It is also seamless. Most people so not understand elastomeric coatings and sealants, and how they work. If an eleastomeric coating is fully bonded to a substrate that moves, or cracks, the crack will transmit right through the coating. A bond breaker is needed for anything that is elastomeric to work. You see this all the time where sealant cracks right down the middle in an improperly designed joint without a backerod as a bond breaker.
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Old 04-25-2013, 03:22 PM   #37
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Hi Jagans - Your looking at the concrete. The EPS foam is bonded to the inside of each triangle and then a 1/4" drywall(crappy drywall that is) is bonded to the foam.
Actually what your looking at is the Kool Seal elastomeric paint The blue is plain old acrylic latex house paint.
Those horrid bulges at the seams of each tangle is where the "professional" concrete men tried to initially repair the cracking seams by slapping concrete over the surface. Now the leak can originate from two or three places instead of one on the seam
Count me as one not knowing how the elastomeric coating works then How could you possibly have a "bond breaker" between the "water proofing paint" and the concrete,metal, ect..
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Old 04-25-2013, 03:49 PM   #38
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No, you misunderstand me. A bond breaker is needed where movement is expected. The PUF should take care of panel to panel movement, so I still think that PUF is the way for you to go. I am somewhat concerned about trapped moisture, but the guy you had did mention that he was going to take care of that I think. Again, the use of the foam here is to reduce movement, and to create a seamless surface onto which the silicone coating can be applied, it is not for R-Value.

There are other coatings that can be applied to foam, and maybe the Graco material is one of them. The advantage to silicone is that it is not organic, and therefore not nearly as subject to attack by organisms like black mold, or red algae, as organic coatings are. Your flat roof areas are small so I would probably just foam them also.
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Old 04-27-2013, 01:19 PM   #39
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I haven't used or heard of Graco but I have Gaco. I used it on top of our RV and it worked great for us, it is a little pricy and it will work over foam. Just contact the people and talk to them about how to prep and use the product. I am very satisfied with it. Oh and you will need the tape for the joints, by all means get the tape that you stick down, the unglued stuff is the pits to use.
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Old 04-27-2013, 05:54 PM   #40
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I haven't used or heard of Graco but I have Gaco. I used it on top of our RV and it worked great for us, it is a little pricy and it will work over foam. Just contact the people and talk to them about how to prep and use the product. I am very satisfied with it. Oh and you will need the tape for the joints, by all means get the tape that you stick down, the unglued stuff is the pits to use.
Sorry, I am not that familiar with all of the current coatings for foam. I was with an engineerinf firm that had the national account to do the inspections on the Dow Silicone over PUF system, and one of my colleagues handled that and said it was a good coating. I remember him saying that he found a lot of problems in other types of coatings. I handled all of the Specifications for low slope roofing like BUR, Single Ply, and also Metal Roofing. My feeling regarding foam is that it is great for domes, Quonset huts, storage tanks and things that have pretty good slope. I never specified it for low slope applications, because I saw a lot of failures in low slope roofs where foam was applied.

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