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-Q- 04-27-2009 11:15 AM

Concrete Dome Home
Hello! We have a solid concrete dome home, the walls curve up to eventually become the roof. The house has leaks to the inside just about everywhere. The house was painted with Conflex XL Elastomeric before we bought it and it's now filled with water bubbles and peeling off in sheets of rubber. We are working on removing the Conflex XL, but it's not an easy task... I asked about that in the painting forum.
For the *Roof Forum* I'm wondering a few things...
The house has many flat roofing sections, all made of concrete. They are incredibly uneven, some pitch in, some have parts that pool water, all of them look bad, and all of them have the same Conflex paint on them. Is there some method that I can concrete over them with a thin layer that's pitched a bit to get the water away from the house? How would I prepare that? or would it be better, or possible to attach a wooden framed peak over these areas and then shingle them or something? I don't know anything about roofs, so if I did that, wouldn't the empty space just fill up with hornet nests and whatnot? (We also have a bad problem with giant black ants)
For the second part of my question... the house is primarily made of large pre-manufactured concrete triangles that are joined together on-site and concreted together in the joins. These joins are the weakest part of the house and I'm not sure the concrete was mixed and installed properly in the first place. Our thinking was to cover these seams (about 12" wide, 6' long) with Henry 208 or Henry's 208R and then painting the triangles between with normal, good quality latex house paint (and paint over the Henry's for looks instead of big black strips all over the house). We also plan to use Henry's on all of the flat roof areas and wall corners for extra waterproofing. The thinking is that the Henry's will create the waterproofing with a solid seal while the regularly painted triangles (made of properly mixed uncracked concrete) would allow the house to breathe because it's painted with regular paint. The Dome manufacturer (, the kit maker, not the actual house builder) suggests just painting the house with a quality latex paint and to avoid Elastomerics. However at this point the house has had years with improperly applied Elastomeric and has so many problems that it *feels* like the house needs a fresh "skin" on much of it and Henry's 208 is the only thing we can come up with as novices that will give us quality long lasting results.

Thanks for taking the time to read and think! :thumbsup:

tinner666 04-28-2009 04:09 PM

Never heard of Henry's? I assume it's like Samson Paint?

Sound like you need some type of epoxy concree fix for any cracks, injected by needle to fill from the bottom outwards, of course. Then clean, dry, dust off and paint.

CNM Design 05-05-2009 06:59 AM

This is what i will be using to make my underground home.
I think the possibilities are high that if you can avg. 7-8,000psi out of a possible 12,000 with one inch inside and out, and use 2# EPU, you could do away with the rebar, plus itís water proof after 3/8 inch. No blistering, it does not shrink or expand with the temp. It is 20 to 30% lighter than cement. It is seamless, you can spray one day, go back a week later and finish up. Not effected by salt. Can be made with salt water and beach sand. I think itís still around 20-25$ for 50#. ... esults.pdf ... art_r3.pdf

Hope this helps

Lbucher 06-07-2009 11:15 AM

dome home
Have you had any sucess in using Henry's? We also have a contrete dome home with the same problem. :(

prestigeroofing 06-08-2009 04:31 AM

Hello all I am new to this site but was sent here by a customer who thought I could help others out with their Geodesic Domes. We have specialized in geodesic dome homes for over 35 years. I own a roofing company which is due to my father owning a Geodesic Dome Construction company. The problems that you are having with the cracking inside is common and is due to expansion and contraction that domes do. If you do not have a cupola installed on the dome it will be worse than those that do due to inadequate ventilation. The manufacturer is correct, stay away from elastomerics because that will completely seal the dome and add to the ventilation problem. If you could post a few Pics I should be able to help a little more. There are a few tricks to stopping the interior cracks. Feel free to contact me via email or this site.

Lbucher 06-08-2009 11:33 AM

Can you put a roof on a concrete dome?

DangerMouse 06-08-2009 11:44 AM


Originally Posted by prestigeroofing (Post 284297)
There are a few tricks to stopping the interior cracks.

please feel free to share them with all of us here! i'd like to know.....


prestigeroofing 06-12-2009 11:38 PM

sheetrock cracks
Ok just so I am clear, on a geodesic dome the expansion and contraction of the structure will create cracks along the sheetrock seams using traditional compound. A proven way to prevent the cracking is to use Benjamin Moore elastomeric patch knife grade. What we do is along the outer perimeter of every triangle is thin the patch to compound consistency and apply like standard sheetrock compound. Also we use the mesh seam tape along the seams. Not endorsing any particular product just wanted to pass along what works well. Hope this helps and good luck.


prestigeroofing 06-12-2009 11:40 PM


Originally Posted by Lbucher (Post 284412)
Can you put a roof on a concrete dome?

Most certainly. I also responded to your email finally. Sorry traveling a lot lately.


CNM Design 07-12-2009 10:33 PM

The answer to all your problems?

If you don’t use this, you are not really interested in fixing your problem correctly.

Eric L 09-21-2011 08:07 PM

Hello, I own a geodesic dome in Northeast Ohio and I was hoping you could help. I need a new roof, and would really like to get in touch with someone who knows and understands these. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!

-Q- 09-22-2011 08:01 AM


Originally Posted by Eric L (Post 733364)

Well, I've had the home for 5 or 6 years now and I'm slowly just watching it fall to ruin. Still haven't found a solution or anyone to help.

I had resigned to pay for a Rhino Shield treatment (like the truck-bed stuff, they do that for houses now too!) but the full Monty quote was $40k, when we asked for a breakdown of the quote he said he couldn't do that, it would just be $40K. So that fell through ;)

Currently the plaster is falling off all over the inside from the outside leaks and when it rains we put buckets all over in their now "designated locations", heh. Although we are well beyond the problem of "a leak and a crack", in general concrete can be frustrating to the interior since any water coming in first soaks into the concrete, then works its way through the soaked concrete to wherever it feels it should go, and eventually works out through any plaster that also decided it has already soaked up enough water or where there's a crack for it to run off.

I'll PM you my normal email address to offer any of my experience though since any data might be helpful data when troubleshooting or choosing a direction to go.

shazapple 09-23-2011 08:40 AM

Why not cover it with a modbit or EDPM membrane?

For the flat areas, what is there for insulation? If you are looking to get slope for drainage you can add tapered insulation and top it with one of the above mentioned membranes.

Henry (aka Bakor) and others have elastomeric coatings that you might be able to use. I have no experience with these on a concrete surface though

sixeightten 09-23-2011 10:59 AM

I would think the EPDM would end up horribly wrinkled. Drape a towel over a basketball and you will see what I mean.

Msradell 09-23-2011 11:49 AM


Originally Posted by sixeightten (Post 734463)
I would think the EPDM would end up horribly wrinkled. Drape a towel over a basketball and you will see what I mean.

You would obviously have to seam it to conform to the panels. Any membrane roof has seams and if done correctly they're not a problem at all!

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