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Old 08-05-2014, 03:56 AM   #1
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completely encapsulated fascia with aluminum trim coil cause rot?


I'm considering what the picture shows. And then vinyl siding over the tyvek. I want the extra lips most people might not use because I want good water shedding and no problem if a power washer hits up into the trim. But will this rot to wood out too fast?


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Old 08-05-2014, 05:32 AM   #2
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completely encapsulated fascia with aluminum trim coil cause rot?


it won't let me edit and remove ^ now. Changed mind again. ^ no good because won't be able to replace trim without taking the vinyl siding off. I'll probably go with putting a drip cap under the roof, caulking a bunch, and attaching composite trim over the existing wood one and have it overlap a couple inches so it overlaps the vinyl siding like a drip edge and caulking under it. probably that or use a simple L aluminum trim with hemmed edge that over hands the vinyl siding, or a fancy-bend L with grooves.

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Old 08-05-2014, 05:35 AM   #3
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completely encapsulated fascia with aluminum trim coil cause rot?


Most rake/fascia rot out at the cut edges and because of a lack of drip/rake edge. If you have them capped and proper roof water management, they should last forever.
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Old 08-05-2014, 06:06 AM   #4
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completely encapsulated fascia with aluminum trim coil cause rot?


What are doing for ventilation?
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Old 08-05-2014, 07:53 AM   #5
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completely encapsulated fascia with aluminum trim coil cause rot?


The picture shows how it is done by professionals most of the time. I see houses around me with same detail. I don't have the guts to tell them in face that they have leaking point.
As you can see, if you cover the trim that way and then put the vinyl siding channel on top of the flashing, water is directed to behind the siding. You can caulk that joint, but that is being hopeful.
For my house, I used 2x6 as trim, eaves and gable ends. I put the channel and siding up first. I used 30 lb tar paper. I caulked all joints in sheathing first, which is better than relying on tyvek and tape to stop draft.
I rented 8' brake to make a cover that covers the face, bottom edge and 1/2 of top channel. For roof, tar paper, drip edge and then ice shield over drip edge. This way, the water way is always overlapped and follows the gravity.

edit: sorry, I didn't answer your question.
You don't need to cover the top of the trim, as picture shows. Drip edge is better, esp since it is made to throw the rain away from the house and supports the roofing somewhat. On gable ends, there is simple L edging without the lip. On the roof peak, where two flashings meet, one side is left longer for overlap and the joint caulked and nailed. If you follow the way the water usually travels, and protect the joints, you can use the cheapest pine and it'll last.

Last edited by carpdad; 08-05-2014 at 08:03 AM.
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Old 08-06-2014, 01:12 AM   #6
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completely encapsulated fascia with aluminum trim coil cause rot?


^

about half houses I looked at had similar to the image but might not have that final bend that goes behind the siding over the tyvek. Instead they butt the j channel to the fascia and the tyvek probably ends at that spot also unless they took off and reinstalled the fascia/bargeboard and put the tyvek behind it or tucked flashing under the fascia. Because if not, then the tyvek relies on caulk/tape at the termination (if they even put it) which doesn't last like 20 years or something even with the best products.


there's not really a concern for soffit areas, but without a soffit, a snow and ice thing can accumulate and actually overhand the roof line into this area, so it's good to have that bottom-most bend instead of what I saw about %50 of houses have like you said you did for your house i.e the common L capping on the old wood bargeboard that overhangs the vinyl without needing j channel because it's overlapping like this

http://s475.photobucket.com/user/hig...ed031.jpg.html


it's supposedly no problem if water runs down the tyvek as directed by the bottom-most bend on the image, but water behind the tyvek is obviously a problem.


a big snow and ice thing can accumulate and actually hang over the gable and the ice possibly expand and get up in there behind the L trim and then behind tyvek which likely ends where it meets the existing fascia without being tucked behind it. Pointing a pressure washer upward can cause a problem too.
Really sort of overbuilding and possibly a waste of material and effort but might be worth the ease of mind for some.

final decision I'm doing is either removing and then reinstalling the good condition bargeboards after putting tyvek behind them. Or tucking flashing under the bargeboards, but it's t111 pressure treated that will eat away at aluminum, so instead of paying more for vinyl or copper flashing, maybe galvanized, probably best to remove and reinstall the bargeboards over tyvek. Then adding a drip cap over bargeboards into the roof. Then in 25 years or something when the bargeboards go bad or instead of painting them, they can be replaced with composite or capped with the simple L.

Last edited by gunner666; 08-06-2014 at 01:21 AM.
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Old 08-06-2014, 11:40 PM   #7
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completely encapsulated fascia with aluminum trim coil cause rot?


actually, im going to trim the existing bargeboards with aluminum coil stock flashing, prebent 'L' can most likely be found and no breaker rental needed, like the photo linked a few posts up, just probably no fancy grooves like that one has will be found premade.

The end.

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