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Old 01-26-2011, 04:33 PM   #1
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cape cod with box gutters


Recently replaced roof. We rebuilt the box gutters, relined them with new aluminum, covered the aluminum with heavy duty self adhering rubber linner. And used ice and water guard for the first 3' under the shingles. last week had a leak! box gutters are full of ice. Can you eliminate this problem using heat tape? If yes how do you install it with a box gutter?


Last edited by mike mccarthy; 01-26-2011 at 04:35 PM. Reason: spelling
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Old 01-26-2011, 04:49 PM   #2
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d used ice and water guard for the first 3' under the shingles.
Minimum standard these days up north is 6'

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Old 01-26-2011, 05:58 PM   #3
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Minimum standard these days up north is 6'
Thanks any ideas for preventing ice dam besides increasing lenght of ice water shield . Its closer to 5' with the rubberized membrane. The ice runs about 2' up the roof from the box gutter
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Old 01-26-2011, 09:11 PM   #4
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cape cod with box gutters


You have bigger issues than the ice dams. The 'system' you used for the built-in gutters won't work. Just save some money so you can do it correctly later. Figure $100-$140. lineal foot to do it correctly.
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Old 01-27-2011, 09:26 AM   #5
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Ice and water shield won't prevent the ice dams. That's an insulation/ventilation issue.

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covered the aluminum with heavy duty self adhering rubber linner.
What manufacturer/brand of self adhering rubber?
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Old 01-27-2011, 12:48 PM   #6
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could you tell me why the "system" I used will not work . I basicly replaced and copied the houses original gutter system. Only change was to add 2 roof vents on either side of the gable.
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Old 01-27-2011, 01:28 PM   #7
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Sure. You need a solderable system. IT can be tin, lead, copper, or stainless.
Now be advised though. I can assure you there are many done like they describe in the second link that FAIL because of the lenght of the panels. They should mever be longer than 28" apiece. As in a flat roof, 4 sq. foot per panel. They can't be pinched by nailing, or by wedging them into place. For instance if the gutter walls are vertical, and 12" between them, the pans should measure 11-3/4" across.

http://www.copper.org/applications/a...m_roofing.html

http://www.copper.org/applications/a...r_linings.html
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Old 01-27-2011, 02:51 PM   #8
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Tinner666 Thanks for your input. When we installed the aluminum we hand shaped it with blocking and a hammer there are no seams. We did not use a break. Old school but we had time and did not want any seams. Any suggestions to reduce the heat exchange at the eves. to eliminate the ice daming
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Old 01-27-2011, 03:12 PM   #9
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Glad to see you had an idea of what's involved. It may work. I just haven't seen it happen. Especially if it's been nailed anywhere.
As for the ice, I don't pretend to have a clue. I hang snowguards all over roofs to keep the snow on and evenly balanced from eave to ridge. The home i work on don't even have felt for the most part and don't have issues either. The lack of felts may even contribute to roof staying the correct temps.
I'm a dumb roofer and everything I've learned over the years seems to have caveats, exceptions, and other factors I don't pretend to understand. Too old school I guess. You could try heat tape.

Or add snow slides like in the 'high' country. There is a thread on Contractor Talk under 'Roofing'
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Old 01-27-2011, 04:11 PM   #10
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Thanks Tinner666

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