Can I Caulk this Flashing - Pics Attached

bartgrometer

The flashing has separated off from the brick and it is a fairly wide gap (see picture). I don't think I can get caulk to fill that large of a gap. Does anyone have a suggestion how to fix this flashing probelm. I'm a rookie DIY but this leak has to be fixed asap. The rain is coming through our ceiling.

Thanks!

BG

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chrisn

Roofing cement in a calking tube

tpolk

maybe look in to a counter flash to go over existing

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The older I get the better I was

kwikfishron

Nothing in a tube will fix that. Call a well established local roofer to take a look.

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Gymschu

Amen, caulking is, at best, a stop gap measure. I'd have the whole flashing redone properly. Believe me, you will save thousands of dollars in the long run.

MJW

That is a counter flashing.

Have it redone or you'll have to re caulk it every year.

bartgrometer

Do I really need to replace all the flashing? The rest of it is in great shape. The roofing company quoted me $3200!

BG

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AGWhitehouse

That flashing isn't installed correctly. The reason you are having trouble is that system is reliant on caulk to work. Yo'll be having this issue time and time again as the caulk fails randomnly along the length. The flashing should step flashing in seperate pieces, properly stepped, and embedded into the grout joint. here's a properly done image: http://dsbrody.com/wp-content/upload...d-flashing.gif

and

http://sss-imgs.s3.amazonaws.com/47/images/1648/5.png

showing the embedment of the flashing edge in the grout joint.

$3,200 doesn't sound absurd considering you'll need all new flashing, partial roof removal and replacement to properly install the step-flashing, grout joint raking to install embeded flashing and grout joint re-tooling to finish flashing install. Pretty labor intensive job...

If you don't want to have it re-done correctly then have tubes of roofing cement on hand and slather those joints up good and check on them every few months.

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Tom Struble

are you sure it's the flashing and not the window leaking?

kwikfishron

.....

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Tom Struble

don't yell at me Ron!

kwikfishron

Just a little target practice.

Looks like I missed.

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Omegaroofer

Yes you can caulk it... Just make sure you re-pin the metal back because the caulk isn't suppose to hold the metal just seal the joint.. Use Vulkum, not roof cement or you will have to service it more frequently..

With all these responses ask yourself this... How long has it lasted so far?

Obviously as the architect said it would be great if you had a bigger lip of metal actually in the joint itself, which is optimal. I am not sure if separate pieces is necessarily better, it is how I was taught though. That's because it is a bigger pain in the butt to do it in long sections like you have it.
I am guessing that this may be a piece at the top, maybe got blown back or something.. And that's why, because they probably secured the metal using the head of an anchor which didn't last and the caulk wasn't enough to hold it in place. I guess I am left wondering why you have such a gap between the mortar and brick in that area as well..

Tom Struble

it probably been leaking since day one

Omegaroofer

Just checked out the pics put up as examples.. DO NOT do a one piece counter flashing/step flashing... And the only time you should have to use lead is on uneven stone work.. I would look at the schematic picture posted as an example..