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Old 08-21-2012, 06:57 PM   #31
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Thanks. Does asphaltic roof mean felt roof?

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Lead makes a great roof, but if it's going to get nicked again you might have to think about getting an asphalter in.
In somes places they are even taking road signs in for selling as scrap.

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Old 08-21-2012, 08:22 PM   #32
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You do the hips the same way as the flat-locks at the top of each panel.
Go over the ridge abut 2" and fold that into a flat-lock. Make the next panel 4" larger than the hip on each end to lock into the prior panel.

It usually looks best when you do the two ends first, then fill in the center.
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Old 08-21-2012, 08:29 PM   #33
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Some examples. All have standing seam, but that should help you see where to put them.
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bay window roof-bay1.jpg   bay window roof-copper-bay5.jpg   bay window roof-87-copper-bay5.jpg  
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Old 08-22-2012, 02:13 AM   #34
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Thanks. Does asphaltic roof mean felt roof?
No, mastic asphalt is just the hot stuff put on by the asphalters in a similar way to plasterers doing a wall or screeding floors. Not quite as good as lead or copper, but lasts much longer than felt.
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Old 08-22-2012, 08:05 PM   #35
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I still have some questions on the cleat and other. Now I understand the cleat to be mounted on the top of the roof and be covered by counter-flashing. Is that right? But how does the cleat clamp the lead sheet on the two side panel of the roof.
Should the 3'' part of lead sheet up the walls be embedded into wall as counter-flashing? Or should I make the flashing using different lead sheet?

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I've been thinking about it. I believe two sheets for each panel/plane/area/facet of the bay window.
I'm inclined to think 18" 'tall' by the width of each pane, and 3" up the walls.

Thinking about the cleats too. I think you better make them from lead. Less chance of an edge cutting a hole through the lead. Try stretching them before installing them. It makes them a little stiffer. (Same way came is stretched when doing stained glass to make it less floppy and the window stiffer.)
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Old 08-22-2012, 08:12 PM   #36
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It looks there is no metal along the drip edge. should I still wrap the drip edge or just leave the lead sheet 2'' into the gutter?

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Too flat for slate.
The lead needs ot wrapped around and clamped tightly to the drip edge metal on the roof. At the top of any sheet, fold the top edge of the lead over to form a flat-lock. Make the flaps 2".
Take the next sheet and fold the edge under and slide it into the lock on the first sheet. Dress it down with a mallet.
Look at the links on my website for more details and some answers I posted earlier today about metal roof repairs.
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Old 08-22-2012, 08:16 PM   #37
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I may find the asphalter from yellow page for a quote. I am wondering Whether mastic asphalt on the roof can lead the water into the gutter.

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No, mastic asphalt is just the hot stuff put on by the asphalters in a similar way to plasterers doing a wall or screeding floors. Not quite as good as lead or copper, but lasts much longer than felt.
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Old 08-22-2012, 08:22 PM   #38
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"It looks there is no metal along the drip edge. should I still wrap the drip edge or just leave the lead sheet 2'' into the gutter?" That's not metal? Can you get somebody to fabricate a proper drip-edge? If so, 1-1/2" out and 2" down looks about right, from here. he lead would lock on the 'flat' edge of it.
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Old 08-22-2012, 08:27 PM   #39
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"I still have some questions on the cleat and other. Now I understand the cleat to be mounted on the top of the roof and be covered by counter-flashing. Is that right? Cleats go into any and every folded lap on the roof.


But how does the cleat clamp the lead sheet on the two side panel of the roof." At the hip, and you should be OK also cleating the top laps. I think you can skip the 'back-cleats'.

Should the 3'' part of lead sheet up the walls be embedded into wall as counter-flashing? I wouldn't if it sags any, it will pull out and cause a leak.

Or should I make the flashing using different lead sheet? Yes.
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Old 08-23-2012, 01:50 PM   #40
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I may find the asphalter from yellow page for a quote. I am wondering Whether mastic asphalt on the roof can lead the water into the gutter.
Shouldn't be a problem.
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Old 08-23-2012, 07:41 PM   #41
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thank you very much for all the tips indeed.
I may have the plan now although I still need to read your webpage and do more search before I go to the roof shop to make the order.

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"I still have some questions on the cleat and other. Now I understand the cleat to be mounted on the top of the roof and be covered by counter-flashing. Is that right? Cleats go into any and every folded lap on the roof.


But how does the cleat clamp the lead sheet on the two side panel of the roof." At the hip, and you should be OK also cleating the top laps. I think you can skip the 'back-cleats'.

Should the 3'' part of lead sheet up the walls be embedded into wall as counter-flashing? I wouldn't if it sags any, it will pull out and cause a leak.

Or should I make the flashing using different lead sheet? Yes.

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