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08-18-2012, 11:12 PM
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#16
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Pro Slate Roofer
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Richmond, Va.
Posts: 1,418
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bay window roof
Which SS. Not steel. It doesn't lend itself well to anything but gable roofs. And the commercial looks really sucks.
Galv would rust pretty fast in the UK if I'm not mistaken. Aluminum is the same as steel, btw.
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08-18-2012, 11:13 PM
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#17
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Pro Slate Roofer
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Richmond, Va.
Posts: 1,418
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bay window roof
Not to mention the pitch is fine for a FL in lead or copper.
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Frank
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08-19-2012, 07:56 PM
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#18
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Newbie
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 25
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bay window roof
Really appreciate. Do you mean the cleat as the attached pic? I mount the cleat along the edge of the roof, just above the gutter, is that right?
Quote:
Originally Posted by tinner666
Use copper cleats to hold the lead in position. About 3" wide by 5" long, 12" apart. Just hook them to the folds, drive in 2 copper nails or 3, per cleat, and fold the tab end of the cleats back over the nails.
Use felt if you want. It shouldn't hurt the lead, or your roof.
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08-19-2012, 08:20 PM
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#19
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Pro Slate Roofer
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Richmond, Va.
Posts: 1,418
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bay window roof
Nope. Top of the panel. The word 'gutter' is used in the example to denote the water flow.
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08-19-2012, 08:25 PM
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#20
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Pro Slate Roofer
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Richmond, Va.
Posts: 1,418
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bay window roof
Pardon my weak effort at drawing. Red is cleat, black is current dripedge, Gray is the new lead.
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08-19-2012, 08:32 PM
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#21
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Pro Slate Roofer
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Richmond, Va.
Posts: 1,418
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bay window roof
If you want to fly the family and I over in a few weeks, I'll help you with it.
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08-19-2012, 08:42 PM
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#22
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Pro Slate Roofer
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Richmond, Va.
Posts: 1,418
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bay window roof
I figure it shouldn't cost you much more than the house did.
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08-19-2012, 08:46 PM
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#23
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Newbie
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 25
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bay window roof
Thank you very much. I gonna to watch your videos to get more confidence to do the job.
By the way I am currently in holiday this week by staying on the computer very late. 
Have a nice holiday.
Quote:
Originally Posted by tinner666
Nope. Top of the panel. The word 'gutter' is used in the example to denote the water flow.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tinner666
If you want to fly the family and I over in a few weeks, I'll help you with it. 
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Last edited by beresford; 08-20-2012 at 07:22 PM.
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08-19-2012, 08:46 PM
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#24
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Pro Slate Roofer
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Richmond, Va.
Posts: 1,418
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bay window roof
This is a SS roof, but many details are the same. Turning the metal up the wall. Back cleating along the wall to hold the panels in place, etc. http://www.albertsroofing.com/Tin%20Roofing%20photo_gallery.htm
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08-20-2012, 08:54 PM
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#25
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Newbie
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 25
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bay window roof
Thanks. I will read carefully. I may have one more question at this moment.
To cover the whole roof from bottom to top it need three layers.
Should I use a single lead sheet to cover the left, front and right side of the roof for every layer?
Quote:
Originally Posted by tinner666
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08-20-2012, 09:52 PM
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#26
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Pro Slate Roofer
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Richmond, Va.
Posts: 1,418
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bay window roof
I've been thinking about it. I believe two sheets for each panel/plane/area/facet of the bay window.
I'm inclined to think 18" 'tall' by the width of each pane, and 3" up the walls.
Thinking about the cleats too. I think you better make them from lead. Less chance of an edge cutting a hole through the lead. Try stretching them before installing them. It makes them a little stiffer. (Same way came is stretched when doing stained glass to make it less floppy and the window stiffer.)
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08-21-2012, 11:44 AM
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#27
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Somerset, England
Posts: 636
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bay window roof
Lead makes a great roof, but if it's going to get nicked again you might have to think about getting an asphalter in.
In somes places they are even taking road signs in for selling as scrap.
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08-21-2012, 12:31 PM
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#28
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Ohio
Posts: 2,098
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bay window roof
Did your cable TV or satellite TV provider run that cable like it is? Kind of shoddy.
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08-21-2012, 07:31 PM
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#29
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Newbie
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 25
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bay window roof
Should I use anything to cover the two bridges which join different plane, one between right and front plane, the other between left and front? It sounds a big job although it is a small area.
Quote:
Originally Posted by tinner666
I've been thinking about it. I believe two sheets for each panel/plane/area/facet of the bay window.
I'm inclined to think 18" 'tall' by the width of each pane, and 3" up the walls.
Thinking about the cleats too. I think you better make them from lead. Less chance of an edge cutting a hole through the lead. Try stretching them before installing them. It makes them a little stiffer. (Same way came is stretched when doing stained glass to make it less floppy and the window stiffer.)
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08-21-2012, 07:36 PM
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#30
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Newbie
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 25
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bay window roof
There are several deserted cables left by former owner during his residence there since 1980s.
Quote:
Originally Posted by hammerlane
Did your cable TV or satellite TV provider run that cable like it is? Kind of shoddy.
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